Iguana case method: 50 questions

A winter evening. A 1.5-year-old green iguana's hind legs tremble as it climbs down from a branch, and it sways from side to side as it walks across the floor. The lower jaw feels softer than before and looks slightly swollen. The UVB light has not been replaced since purchase over a year ago, and the calcium powder ran out about two months ago and has not been added since. It still has an appetite, but is losing weight.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Buy a new UVB light, turn it on, and consider a vet visit after watching for two weeks
2. Move it to a low container where it cannot fall, keep it warm, and contact a reptile vet the same day
3. Crush a human calcium tablet, force it into the mouth, and wait until the next morning
4. Put it back on the branch for exercise and increase sunbathing time to strengthen the bones

AnswerB. Move it to a low container where it cannot fall, keep it warm, and contact a reptile vet the same day

ExplanationA softening jaw, trembling limbs and abnormal gait are classic signs of metabolic bone disease (MBD), here caused by an expired UVB light combined with calcium deficiency. The bones are already weak and could easily break in a fall from a branch, so move it to a low container, keep it warm, and see a vet the same day for blood tests and treatment. Replacing the UVB is necessary, but at this advanced stage light alone will not reverse it, and two weeks of waiting lets bone deformity progress. Forcing human calcium tablets risks aspiration and overdose, and more exercise or sunbathing only raises the fracture risk.

IssuesThe owner did not know that UVB output drops after 6 to 12 months even while the bulb still lights, and neglected to replace it. The calcium powder was left unreplaced, and the warning signs of weight loss and gait changes were missed.

ImprovementWrite the replacement date on the cage and change the UVB light every 6 months. Keep spare calcium powder on hand and add it 3 to 4 times a week. Weigh monthly and make feeling the jaw and limbs a habit; see a vet early if anything is off.

Spring. A 7-year-old male green iguana has recently been plunging its head into the water dish and drinking for long periods, and has lost 1 kg in six months. When taking it over from the previous owner, you were told it eats soaked dog food well, and you have been feeding that a few times a week. This morning the hind legs look puffy and it is sluggish. It has passed almost no stool.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Assume dehydration, give a longer warm soak so it takes in plenty of water, and watch for a few days
2. Assume malnutrition, increase the dog food, and see whether the weight comes back
3. Add more vegetables and fruit with a diuretic effect and see whether the swelling goes down
4. Stop all animal protein immediately and see a vet the same day with the diet records and weight history

AnswerD. Stop all animal protein immediately and see a vet the same day with the diet records and weight history

ExplanationIncreased drinking, weight loss, swollen limbs and sluggishness are classic signs of kidney failure, and long-term feeding of animal protein is the main cause. Kidney damage is irreversible, so the cause must be removed and blood tests done to assess kidney function so that treatment such as fluids can start early. Warm soaks alone do not reduce the load on the kidneys, and increasing dog food accelerates the disease. This is not a stage that changing fruit or vegetables can fix, and waiting leads to a fatal delay.

IssuesThe owner did not know that green iguanas are strict herbivores and carried over the previous owner's mistaken advice unchanged. Despite noticing the six months of increased drinking and weight loss, the vet visit was delayed.

ImprovementSwitch to a fully herbivorous diet based on leafy greens and never feed animal protein. When adopting, do not take the husbandry history at face value; get a health check and blood test right after arrival. Check kidney function with an annual blood test.

An early-summer morning. A 4-year-old female green iguana's belly has been greatly swollen for three weeks and she has been repeatedly digging at the cage floor, but no nest box was provided. Since yesterday she has eaten nothing at all, and this morning she is dragging her hind legs, her color has darkened and she is limp. She is kept alone with no male.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Suspect egg binding, keep her warm and undisturbed, and contact a reptile vet the same day
2. Decide it cannot be eggs since there is no male, treat it as constipation and repeat warm soaks
3. Gently press on the belly by hand to help the eggs out, and see a vet if they do not come
4. Set up a nest box now and wait a few days to see whether she lays on her own

AnswerA. Suspect egg binding, keep her warm and undisturbed, and contact a reptile vet the same day

ExplanationFemale green iguanas produce and lay infertile eggs even without mating. Abdominal swelling followed by total loss of appetite, hind-leg paralysis, darkened color and limpness are late signs of egg binding, with eggs pressing on nerves and blood vessels, and require a vet the same day. Assuming it cannot be eggs because there is no male is wrong, and pressing on the belly can rupture eggs and cause peritonitis or oviduct rupture. Providing a nest box now will not help; she has no strength left to lay on her own, and waiting days is life-threatening.

IssuesThe owner did not know females lay even when kept alone and missed that the digging was a search for a nesting site. No nest box was provided, so she could not lay, and she was left until she stopped eating and became paralyzed.

ImprovementExpect females from 2 to 3 years old to have a laying season every spring to early summer, and prepare a nest box of moist soil at least 30 cm deep. On seeing a swollen belly and digging, see a vet early and confirm the number and condition of eggs by X-ray.

Winter. A 2-year-old green iguana is kept in a room where the heating drops humidity to 40%. It is shedding season, but two toes on a front foot have rings of old skin left on them, and the tips beyond are darkened and slightly thinner. The iguana does not seem bothered, but the toes appear to catch when it grips branches. Misting was only about every other day.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Peel off all the remaining skin with tweezers and apply antiseptic
2. Assume the shed will finish on its own, mist more and wait for the next shed
3. Soften the skin with a warm soak and gently coax it with a wet cotton swab; since the toes are blackening, see a vet the same day
4. Rub oil into the toes to soften the skin and watch for a week

AnswerC. Soften the skin with a warm soak and gently coax it with a wet cotton swab; since the toes are blackening, see a vet the same day

ExplanationRetained skin that constricts a toe cuts off blood flow, and the toe turns black, dies and is eventually lost. Since blackening and thinning are already present, soften the skin with a warm soak, coax it gently, and see a vet the same day for the needed treatment. Forcing it off with tweezers tears the skin and causes bleeding and infection. Waiting for the next shed lets necrosis progress and costs the toe. Oil interferes with the skin and is unhygienic, and a week's delay is dangerous.

IssuesAlthough heating had dropped humidity to 40%, no humidification was added and misting was insufficient. There was no habit of checking toes, tail tip and spines daily during shedding, so the constriction was not noticed until it had progressed.

ImprovementInstall a hygrometer and keep 60–80% humidity with misting twice a day and a large water area. During shedding, give warm soaks 2 to 3 times a week to soften skin and check toes and tail tip daily. Deal with retained skin before it turns black.

Late autumn. A 3-year-old green iguana has yellow-white cheesy lumps stuck to the corner of its mouth and cannot close it properly. Drool wets the mouth area and it is eating less. Recently the night heater broke and nights have been dropping to about 22°C for days. The cage has not been cleaned for two weeks because of a busy schedule.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Scrape off the deposits with a cotton swab, apply a human oral medication, and watch
2. Restore the correct temperature, clean the cage, leave the deposits alone, and see a vet the same day
3. Since it is not eating because of the cold, warm it in a soak and restore appetite with its favorite fruit
4. Treat it as plaque, brush with a toothbrush, and see a vet on the weekend if no better

AnswerB. Restore the correct temperature, clean the cage, leave the deposits alone, and see a vet the same day

ExplanationCheesy material around the mouth, drooling and inability to close the mouth are classic signs of mouth rot (stomatitis), which develops when low temperature or poor hygiene weakens immunity and bacteria multiply. It can progress to the bone, so restore the temperature, clean the cage, and see a vet the same day for proper antibacterial treatment. Scraping the deposits damages the mucosa and makes it worse, and some human medications are dangerous to reptiles. Fruit alone is unbalanced and no substitute for treatment, and brushing is the wrong response and delays the vet visit.

IssuesThe owner noticed the broken night heater but left it, so 22°C nights continued and immunity fell. Two weeks without cleaning created a bacteria-rich environment. The mouth abnormality was taken lightly and the vet visit put off.

ImprovementPlace thermometers at two spots for day and night and check the minimum temperature daily. Keep a spare heater and replace a broken one immediately. Remove droppings daily and wash the cage weekly. Add the mouth, teeth and drooling to the daily observation list.

A January morning. A 2-year-old green iguana is lying still on the cage floor with darkened body color. You have just noticed that the night heater's plug came out last night. The thermometer in the cage reads 16°C. It barely responds when called, and its body is cold when picked up. The eyelids move faintly.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Warm it gradually to about 28–30°C, and see a vet the same day if it does not respond
2. Put it straight into a 38°C soak to raise body temperature quickly
3. Place it directly under the basking light and wait until it moves
4. Assume it has died, wrap it in a cloth and leave it quietly

AnswerA. Warm it gradually to about 28–30°C, and see a vet the same day if it does not respond

ExplanationAn ectotherm that has stopped moving from cold is often still alive. Since the eyelids are moving, the correct response is to warm it slowly back to 28–30°C, and if it still does not respond, see a vet the same day. A sudden hot soak or direct heat source warms only the surface, creating a damaging gap with the core temperature, and can cause burns or sudden collapse. A cold, motionless body can be within the normal range for an ectotherm, so never assume death.

IssuesThe unplugged night heater went unnoticed until morning, and there was no habit of checking the winter minimum temperature. Nothing alerted the owner to the abnormal reading, so the cold lasted for hours.

ImprovementBefore bed, always check the thermometer and that the heater is powered. Switch to a plug that cannot come loose and secure it. Install a max/min or smart thermometer that sends an alert if the night temperature drops below 25°C.

A holiday afternoon. A 1-year-old green iguana was out in the room and ran under furniture, so you pulled its tail to drag it out. At that instant the rear half of the tail broke off and fell to the floor, where it is twitching. A little blood is oozing from the stump. The iguana is agitated and running at the wall.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Pick up the dropped tail, hold it to the stump, tape it in place and wait for it to reattach
2. Apply plenty of styptic powder or antiseptic to the stump to stop the bleeding
3. Calmly catch the iguana, move it to a clean container lined with paper, press gently with gauze and see a vet
4. The tail stops bleeding and regrows on its own, so do nothing and continue care as usual

AnswerC. Calmly catch the iguana, move it to a clean container lined with paper, press gently with gauze and see a vet

ExplanationTail autotomy is a defense response, and bleeding is usually minor and stops. However, the stump is prone to bacterial infection, so switch bedding to paper to keep it clean, press gently with gauze, and see a vet for infection prevention. The dropped tail cannot be reattached, and taping it on becomes a source of infection. Large amounts of styptic powder or antiseptic irritate the tissue and slow healing. An iguana's tail regrows only imperfectly, and if left alone infection can spread and cause necrosis.

IssuesThe owner did not know iguanas drop their tail when it is grabbed and pulled an agitated animal by the tail. Before letting it out, the room was not prepared by blocking gaps under furniture where it could hide.

ImprovementWhen lifting, support the chest and hips with both hands and never grab the tail. Block gaps under furniture before letting it out, and when catching it, cover it with a cloth to calm it before holding the body. After autotomy, keep it on clean paper bedding and see a vet.

Evening. A 3-year-old green iguana was climbing the cage's ventilation mesh and fell, and one nail on a front foot was torn out at the base. Blood keeps coming from the toe, and a stain is spreading on the pet sheet bedding. The iguana walks favoring the foot. The nails had not been trimmed for over two months.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Keep rinsing the bleeding area with water to dilute the blood and wait for it to stop on its own
2. Seal the wound with superglue to stop the bleeding and watch
3. The nail will grow back, so leave it and see a vet in a week if it is swollen
4. Press gently with clean gauze for 5 minutes, and even if it stops, see a vet the same day since the nail is gone

AnswerD. Press gently with clean gauze for 5 minutes, and even if it stops, see a vet the same day since the nail is gone

ExplanationA nail torn out at the base leaves blood vessels exposed, so press gently with gauze for 5 minutes to stop the bleeding. Even if it stops, bacteria can enter the wound and cause infection of the whole toe or bone inflammation, so see a vet the same day for treatment. Continuous rinsing prevents clotting and prolongs bleeding. Superglue damages tissue and seals in infection. The nail may not regrow, and waiting until it swells is too late.

IssuesThe nails had grown unchecked for over two months, making them easy to snag on mesh. Climbable mesh was left inside the cage, leading to the fall and nail injury.

ImprovementOnce or twice a month, clip only the sharp tips with reptile nail clippers. Use fine mesh that nails cannot catch for cage ventilation, or position it so it cannot be climbed. Keep gauze for bleeding in the first-aid kit.

Night. You heard a 2-year-old green iguana fall to the floor from a branch 1.5 m up. Its front leg is bent at an unnatural angle and it is not moving it. You had just been worrying that its jaw looked slightly swollen and its bones might be weak. It is in pain, not moving, and breathing faster than usual. The nearby reptile clinic is closed.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Splint the leg straight with chopsticks and a bandage and keep it quiet until morning
2. Do not touch it; move it to a low container, keep it warm, and contact an emergency (after-hours) hospital or a clinic that can see it first thing in the morning
3. Give a small dose of human painkiller to ease the pain and let it sleep
4. If it were broken it could not walk, so make it walk first to check

AnswerB. Do not touch it; move it to a low container, keep it warm, and contact an emergency (after-hours) hospital or a clinic that can see it first thing in the morning

ExplanationBones weakened by MBD break even in minor falls. A front leg bent the wrong way is very likely fractured, and an amateur attempt to splint it can push bone fragments into skin or blood vessels. Do not touch the injured area; keep it warm in a low container, and look for a hospital that can see it tonight or go first thing in the morning for X-rays. Many human painkillers are toxic to reptiles and the dose is unknown, so never give them. Making it walk worsens the fracture.

IssuesThe owner was aware of suspected MBD (swollen jaw) but put off the vet visit, and left a setup where it could climb 1.5 m despite weak bones. No reptile hospital with after-hours service had been looked up.

ImprovementSee a vet as soon as jaw or limb swelling is noticed and review UVB and calcium. While bones are weak, lower the branches and put a mat on the floor. Look up an after-hours reptile emergency contact in advance and post it on the cage.

Sunday noon. You added a new branch directly under a basking light hung bare inside the cage. Two hours later, a 3-year-old green iguana has a blister about 2 cm across in the middle of its back, with the surrounding skin turned white. There is a mark of scorched scales on the surface of the light. It dislikes having its back touched.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Cool the area with room-temperature water, cover with dry clean gauze, and see a vet the same day
2. Apply a thick layer of over-the-counter burn ointment and pop the blister to drain it
3. Hold ice wrapped in a towel on the area for a long time until the pain is gone
4. It is a small burn that will heal with shedding, so wait until the next shed

AnswerA. Cool the area with room-temperature water, cover with dry clean gauze, and see a vet the same day

ExplanationThe scorched scales on the light surface show this is a contact burn. Cool it with room-temperature water to draw out the heat, cover with dry clean gauze, and see a vet the same day for infection prevention and assessment of depth. The blister is the skin's protection and must not be popped; human ointments have unknown ingredients and are sticky, attracting dirt. Ice lowers an ectotherm's body temperature too far and causes other problems. Reptile burns are deeper than they look, do not heal with shedding, and can become infected and necrotic.

IssuesThe basking light was installed bare inside the cage with no wire guard. When adding the new branch, the distance to the light was not checked, and it was left for two hours.

ImprovementShine the light from outside the cage or always fit a wire guard, placed out of the iguana's reach. After any layout change, measure the distance from the highest point to the heat source and watch behavior for 30 minutes. Put a thermometer at the basking spot.

11 p.m. A 5-year-old green iguana (1.4 m long) kept free in the house had gone into the hallway unnoticed, and you stepped on its body in the dark. Your 60 kg weight landed on it for an instant. It ran away, but is now in a corner of its cage breathing with its mouth slightly open, belly flat on the floor and not moving. There is no visible bleeding.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Since it had the energy to run, decide it is fine and judge by how it looks in the morning
2. Press on the belly to check the organs, and watch if it does not seem to hurt
3. Open-mouth breathing may mean internal injury, so keep it warm without disturbing it and contact an emergency (after-hours) animal hospital
4. Put it in a warm soak to relax, and consider it fine if it defecates

AnswerC. Open-mouth breathing may mean internal injury, so keep it warm without disturbing it and contact an emergency (after-hours) animal hospital

ExplanationWhen an adult's weight lands on the body, rib fractures, lung injury or internal bleeding can occur even with no visible wound. Open-mouth breathing and going still are warning signs that call for an emergency hospital. Running away was just fright, not proof of being unhurt. Pressing on the belly worsens injured organs or broken ribs. A soak burdens an animal with breathing difficulty, and whether it defecates says nothing about internal injury.

IssuesA large free-roaming iguana could reach the hallway at night, and the owner walked without turning on the lights. There was no system to fix its location at night and no habit of checking where it was before walking.

ImprovementAt night, always return it to the cage or set a room it cannot enter and close the door. Turn on lights and check your footing when moving through hallways or bedrooms. Warn guests and family to watch their feet, and after stepping on it, see a vet the next day even without symptoms.

Afternoon. A 4-year-old green iguana that was out in the room was lying on the rail of a sliding door unnoticed, and you slammed the door shut. The middle of its tail was caught; you opened the door at once, but the pinched section is flattened and everything beyond it hangs limp and does not move. There is little bleeding, but the skin is split. The iguana is agitated and tries to whip its tail but cannot move it properly.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Massage the flattened section to restore circulation until it moves again
2. It did not drop the tail, so assume it is fine, just disinfect and go back to normal
3. The limp section will die anyway, so cut it off yourself with scissors and stop the bleeding
4. Support the tail without bending it, place it in a container, cover the split with gauze and see a vet the same day

AnswerD. Support the tail without bending it, place it in a container, cover the split with gauze and see a vet the same day

ExplanationA pinched tail that hangs limp and does not move means a tail fracture or nerve injury. Left alone, blood flow stops and the tip dies. Support the tail so it does not bend, place it in a container, cover the split skin with gauze, and see a vet the same day for X-rays and treatment. Massage further damages the fracture, and disinfecting alone prevents neither fracture complications nor necrosis. Amateur amputation risks heavy bleeding and life-threatening infection; whether amputation is needed is for the vet to decide.

IssuesWhile the iguana was out, the owner slammed the sliding door without checking whether its long tail was near it. The door had no stopper and there was no household rule about watching the tail.

ImprovementFit stoppers on sliding doors and doors while it is out so they cannot slam. Share a family habit of visually checking the tail before closing any door. Limit free-roaming to a single room so there is no need to open and close doors.

A September midday. You opened a window for ventilation with only the screen closed, and a 6-year-old free-roaming green iguana (1.6 m long) tore through the screen with its claws and got out. You noticed 30 minutes later and cannot see it in the yard trees. There is a high fence on the neighbor's boundary and many children in the neighborhood. The forecast says temperatures will drop to 20°C from tomorrow.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Iguanas come home on their own, so leave the window open with food out and wait
2. Search the neighborhood focusing on sunny high spots, report to the police and the municipal office, and alert the neighbors
3. Ask for sightings on social media and wait at home for news until it is found
4. To avoid bothering the neighbors, do not report it and search quietly as a family until nightfall

AnswerB. Search the neighborhood focusing on sunny high spots, report to the police and the municipal office, and alert the neighbors

ExplanationIguanas prefer warm high places and sun, so search trees, fences and roofs first. A large iguana can injure people by biting or tail-whipping, and the owner is responsible under the Act on Welfare and Management of Animals, so report to the police and the municipal office and alert the neighbors. It has no homing instinct, and will weaken and die as temperatures fall. Social media is only a supplement; waiting alone will not find it. Without a report, it will not be properly secured when found and neighbors are put at risk.

IssuesThe owner did not anticipate that a large iguana's claws easily tear a screen and ventilated with only the screen. There was no rule about locking windows while it was out, and it was left unwatched for 30 minutes.

ImprovementKeep windows closed and locked while it is out; ventilate from another room or fit metal grilles. Prepare a microchip and photos and keep escape contact numbers ready in advance. Always return it to the cage when you cannot watch it.

Ten days ago you switched the cage bedding to wood chips for looks. Several times you saw a 1-year-old green iguana take chips into its mouth along with its vegetables. There have been no droppings for the past four days, the belly is distended and hard, and since this morning it is refusing leafy greens. It occasionally arches its body as if straining.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Switch the bedding back to paper right away, encourage defecation with a warm soak, and see a vet the same day
2. Give cooking oil by mouth to make the stool slide and wait until tomorrow
3. Give a lukewarm-water enema through the vent to push the stool out
4. Add more high-fiber vegetables and wait a week for it to pass naturally

AnswerA. Switch the bedding back to paper right away, encourage defecation with a warm soak, and see a vet the same day

ExplanationIntestinal blockage from swallowed wood chips is suspected. Four days without droppings, a hard distended belly, loss of appetite and straining are classic signs of obstruction; left alone, the bowel dies and it is fatal. Remove the source, encourage defecation with a warm soak, and see a vet the same day for X-rays. Giving oil risks aspiration pneumonia and does not clear the blockage. An amateur enema injures the bowel, more fiber will not move a foreign body, and a week's delay is fatal.

IssuesWood chips with a known swallowing risk were introduced for appearance, and the bedding was not changed even after seeing it mouth them. No record of droppings was kept, so the four-day stop was noticed late.

ImprovementUse bedding that is unlikely to be swallowed, such as pet sheets or newspaper. Serve food in a deep dish rather than on the floor. Record droppings on a calendar and see a vet if there are none for 3 days or more.

Afternoon. You found a 3-year-old green iguana out in the living room chewing the leaves of a decorative pothos. Thirty minutes later, it is shaking its head with its mouth open, drooling, and has brought up the leaves it ate. It is now sitting still in a corner of its cage and the mouth area looks slightly swollen. It is unknown how much it ate.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Remove any leaves left in the mouth, give water, and watch until the nausea settles
2. Pour salt water into its mouth to make it vomit up the remaining leaves
3. Remove any leaves left in the mouth, note the plant's name and amount eaten, and see a vet the same day
4. As a herbivore it can handle plants, so give its usual food and watch

AnswerC. Remove any leaves left in the mouth, note the plant's name and amount eaten, and see a vet the same day

ExplanationMany houseplants such as pothos and dieffenbachia contain calcium oxalate, causing oral swelling, drooling and vomiting. To stop the poisoning from progressing, remove leaves from the mouth, note the plant species and amount, and see a vet the same day. Water alone does not prevent poisoning, and inducing vomiting with salt water risks fatal electrolyte imbalance or aspiration. Toxic plants harm herbivores too, and feeding its usual food with a swollen mouth risks aspiration.

IssuesHouseplants were left within the free-roaming area without considering that a herbivorous iguana chews leaves. The amount eaten was unknown, leaving no information to judge the severity.

ImprovementRemove houseplants from the room where it roams or move them out of reach. Look up and note the names and toxicity of plants in the home. Never leave it unwatched while out, and record a photo and amount of anything it mouths to tell the vet.

2 p.m. in August. A power outage stopped the air conditioning, and within two hours the room reached 37°C. The 4-year-old green iguana in its cage is breathing fast with its mouth open, keeps trying to submerge in the water dish, and its color is darker than usual. There is no estimate for when power will return, and it is 35°C outside. There are a few ice packs in the refrigerator.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Cover the whole cage with a black cloth to block direct sun and wait for power to return
2. Press ice packs directly on its body to cool it fast, and put it back once it moves again
3. Iguanas are tropical animals, so 37°C is no problem; just top up the water and leave it
4. Move it to a well-ventilated spot, place towel-wrapped ice packs nearby, and evacuate to somewhere cool

AnswerD. Move it to a well-ventilated spot, place towel-wrapped ice packs nearby, and evacuate to somewhere cool

ExplanationOpen-mouth breathing and dark color in an environment above 35°C are early signs of heatstroke, and it will deteriorate rapidly if left. Move it to a cool, well-ventilated place, lower body temperature gradually with towel-wrapped ice packs placed nearby, and evacuate to somewhere with air conditioning. A black cloth traps heat, and ice packs applied directly cause cold injury to the skin from the sudden temperature difference. Even tropical animals regulate temperature in shade and water; 37°C with no escape is fatal.

IssuesNo plan existed for a summer power outage, and neither how to use ice packs nor an evacuation destination had been decided. The cage had no cool refuge, and the temperature rise went unnoticed for two hours.

ImprovementIn summer, keep plenty of ice packs and frozen water bottles for outages and use them wrapped in towels. Decide on an air-conditioned place to evacuate to (relatives, car, pet shop). Set the thermometer alarm to notify above 30°C.

Late at night in February. Heavy snow caused a power outage, and the heating and all the cage heaters stopped. Three hours later the room is down to 10°C, and a 3-year-old green iguana is motionless on its branch with darkened color. Power is announced to return no earlier than morning. In the house are 10 disposable heat packs, blankets, a styrofoam box and a car.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Stick heat packs directly on its body, wrap it in a blanket and let it sleep until morning
2. Put towel-wrapped heat packs in the styrofoam box, move the iguana in, hold the 20s°C, and evacuate to the car's heater if needed
3. Iguanas tolerate cold well, so do nothing and wait for power until morning
4. Heat the room with candles or a gas stove and put the cage near them

AnswerB. Put towel-wrapped heat packs in the styrofoam box, move the iguana in, hold the 20s°C, and evacuate to the car's heater if needed

ExplanationSeveral hours at 10°C stops digestion and lowers immunity, and if prolonged leads to death. Put towel-wrapped heat packs in the styrofoam box, move the iguana in, and use a thermometer to hold the 20s°C. If the outage drags on, evacuate to the car's heater. Heat packs stuck directly on the body cause low-temperature burns, and an immobile animal cannot escape them. Iguanas are tropical and sensitive to cold; doing nothing is dangerous. Candles or a gas stove risk fire and carbon monoxide poisoning, and placing the cage near them causes overheating and burns.

IssuesNo heating method for a winter outage had been prepared, and the safe way to use heat packs was unknown. Three hours after noticing the outage, the owner was still only thinking about what to do while the room cooled.

ImprovementIn winter, assemble an outage kit: styrofoam box, heat packs, thermometer and blankets. Prepare a portable power station and in-car warming supplies. Decide in advance to move the animal into a warm container within 30 minutes of noticing an outage.

On the weekend, a 3-year-old child held the family's 2-year-old iguana, then ate a snack without washing hands. Two days later the child has a 38.5°C fever and watery diarrhea with blood in the stool. The iguana itself is lively and eating well. The parents do not know whether the iguana is the cause and are watching the child.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Take the child to a pediatrician, mention the reptile contact, and separate iguana care from the toddler
2. Since the iguana is healthy, assume it is unrelated and treat the child's cold with over-the-counter medicine
3. Wash the iguana all over with disinfectant and give the child a probiotic and watch
4. Decide the iguana is the cause and consider giving it up immediately

AnswerA. Take the child to a pediatrician, mention the reptile contact, and separate iguana care from the toddler

ExplanationReptiles carry Salmonella in the gut even when healthy, and it spreads to people via feces and skin. Young children are prone to severe illness; fever and bloody stool are signs that need a doctor, and mentioning the reptile contact ensures the right tests and treatment. Bacteria are shed even by a symptom-free iguana, so it cannot be ruled out. Watching with over-the-counter medicine or probiotics risks dehydration and sepsis in a toddler. Washing the iguana does not eliminate the bacteria; the solution is strict hygiene, not giving it up.

IssuesThe family did not know healthy reptiles carry Salmonella, let a toddler handle it, and did not have the child wash hands. There was no household rule on handwashing after contact and before eating.

ImprovementDo not let children under 5 or the elderly handle the iguana. Always wash hands with soap after contact and do not touch the mouth or food with unwashed hands. Keep the cage and soaking tub separate from the kitchen and disinfect with chlorine bleach.

Last week you brought home a young green iguana from a reptile expo and placed it in a cage next to your 1-year resident iguana in the same room. Today you found several tiny moving black specks between the scales on the new iguana's neck and armpits. Black grains are floating in the water dish. You checked the resident iguana and found none yet. Your arm itches slightly where you touched it.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Crush the mites by hand, leave the cage as it is, and watch
2. Spray an over-the-counter insecticide on the cage and the iguana to kill them
3. Isolate the new iguana in a separate room, see a vet for mite treatment, and wash the cage and all equipment thoroughly
4. A soak will wash them away, so bathe it together with the resident iguana

AnswerC. Isolate the new iguana in a separate room, see a vet for mite treatment, and wash the cage and all equipment thoroughly

ExplanationTiny moving black specks are reptile mites, which suck blood, cause anemia and dermatitis, and can carry pathogens. They can also bite people and cause itching. Isolate the new iguana in a separate room, see a vet, treat under veterinary guidance, and wash the cage, branches and water dish completely. Crushing them by hand leaves eggs and hidden mites, and an untreated cage leads to reinfestation. Over-the-counter insecticides are toxic to reptiles. Bathing it with the resident iguana transfers the mites.

IssuesThe new iguana was placed in the same room as the resident without quarantine. No skin and stool health check or vet visit was done on arrival, and the mites went unnoticed for a week.

ImprovementQuarantine new animals in a separate room for at least a month and see a vet in the first week for a skin check and fecal exam. Care for the resident first, and wash hands and change clothes after handling the new one. Do not share equipment.

7 a.m. in November. A 2-year-old green iguana is lying on its side on the cage floor, cold to the touch and not moving when called. The heater is working, but the thermometer shows the floor area has been at 18°C since last night. You cannot see the belly moving, but on close inspection the eyelid seemed to twitch. The animal hospital opens at 9.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Do firm chest compressions and give up if there is no response
2. Pinch a toe to check for a response, watch the flanks for one minute to check breathing, and keep it warm at 28–30°C
3. Give repeated mouth-to-mouth breaths and keep going until it moves
4. It is cold and still, so declare it dead and dispose of it without calling the hospital

AnswerB. Pinch a toe to check for a response, watch the flanks for one minute to check breathing, and keep it warm at 28–30°C

ExplanationAn ectotherm is often alive even when cold and motionless, and since resting breathing is only a few breaths per minute, watch the flanks rise and fall for a full minute. Check for a response by pinching a toe or touching the eyelid; if there is any response or breathing, keep it warm at 28–30°C and see a vet as soon as the clinic opens. Chest compressions are ineffective in reptiles and break ribs. Mouth-to-mouth carries a Salmonella risk and has little value when done by a layperson. Declaring death just because it is cold and still is premature.

IssuesOnly the top of the cage was heated, and the owner did not notice the floor area had dropped to 18°C. There was only one thermometer, and the nighttime minimum was not recorded. The owner did not know how to check consciousness and breathing.

ImprovementPlace thermometers at two spots, top and floor, and record the max/min every morning. Add a panel heater or insulation so the floor area also stays above 25°C at night. Post how to check response and breathing, with normal values, on the cage.

10 p.m. A 5-year-old green iguana on its branch is breathing with its mouth wide open and making a wheezing sound. There is foam at its nostrils, and it is stretching its neck and puffing out its throat. For the past few days, night temperatures have been around 20°C and it has eaten little during the day. It does not threaten when you approach, and its whole body moves with each breath.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Put it in a warm soak to inhale the steam and keep it there until breathing eases
2. Treat it as a threat display, darken the cage and wait for it to calm down
3. Give a small dose of human cold medicine and watch until morning
4. Wipe the foam from the nostrils with a cotton swab, raise the head, keep it warm, and contact an emergency (after-hours) animal hospital

AnswerD. Wipe the foam from the nostrils with a cotton swab, raise the head, keep it warm, and contact an emergency (after-hours) animal hospital

ExplanationOpen-mouth breathing, wheezing and foam from the nose are severe signs of respiratory infection (pneumonia), likely triggered by lowered immunity from the sustained cold. Clear the airway by wiping discharge from the nose and mouth with a cotton swab, raise the head slightly, keep it at 28–30°C, and contact a hospital that can see it tonight. A soak risks drowning and stress in an animal struggling to breathe. A threat display involves puffing up, but breathing with foam and noise is illness. Human cold medicine is toxic to reptiles, and waiting until morning can end in suffocation.

IssuesNight temperatures around 20°C were left for several days, and the early sign of reduced appetite was missed. The owner did not know that respiratory signs are a serious emergency.

ImprovementAdd heaters to keep nights above 25°C and check the minimum temperature daily. If appetite drops for two days, review temperature and see a vet. Remember that open-mouth breathing, foam at the nose and wheezing warrant an emergency hospital, and keep the contact ready.

Spring. Having heard that green leafy vegetables are good, you have fed a 2-year-old green iguana mainly cheap supermarket spinach and cabbage for the past three months. You also dust with calcium powder. Recently it is sluggish, no longer climbs its branches, and both sides of the jaw look slightly swollen. The UVB light was replaced just three months ago.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Double the calcium powder, continue the spinach, and watch
2. Make fruit the staple to boost appetite and watch for a month to see if energy returns
3. Switch to leafy greens that do not block absorption, such as komatsuna and bok choy, and see a vet within a few days about the jaw swelling
4. Assume UVB is insufficient, add more lights and run them 24 hours a day

AnswerC. Switch to leafy greens that do not block absorption, such as komatsuna and bok choy, and see a vet within a few days about the jaw swelling

ExplanationSpinach is high in oxalates and cabbage in goitrogens, which block calcium absorption or affect the thyroid. Even with calcium powder added, it is not absorbed, and the jaw swelling and reduced activity are early signs of MBD. Switch to suitable greens such as komatsuna, bok choy and mulukhiyah, and see a vet within a few days to check bone condition. Doubling the calcium does not solve the absorption block, and a fruit staple causes excess sugar and malnutrition. The UVB was just replaced, so it is not lacking, and 24-hour lighting disrupts the day-night rhythm.

IssuesUnder the misconception that any leafy green is fine, vegetables that block calcium absorption were the staple for three months. Knowledge of which vegetables suit iguanas and which to avoid was lacking.

ImprovementMake the staple a mix of komatsuna, bok choy, mulukhiyah and butterhead lettuce, and keep spinach, cabbage and broccoli to small amounts. Post a list of acceptable vegetables on the refrigerator and check the jaw and limbs once a month.

Spring. For several weeks a 5-year-old male green iguana has been bobbing its head violently and threatens whenever you stand in front of the cage. Today, the moment you reached in to take the food dish, it bit your forearm. It let go at once, but the wound is a gash about 3 cm long, bleeding and deep enough to show fat. You have antiseptic and adhesive bandages on hand.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Rinse under running water for 5 minutes, press with clean gauze, and since it is a deep laceration, go to a hospital the same day
2. Pour on antiseptic, close it with an adhesive bandage, and go to a hospital if it swells
3. Once the bleeding stops it is fine, so seal the wound with superglue
4. Hit the iguana as punishment for biting, and treat the wound later

AnswerA. Rinse under running water for 5 minutes, press with clean gauze, and since it is a deep laceration, go to a hospital the same day

ExplanationIguana teeth are serrated and wounds tend to be deep and torn. Bacteria such as Salmonella from the mouth enter the wound, so rinse under running water for 5 minutes, press with gauze to stop bleeding, and for a wound deep enough to show fat, go to a hospital the same day for cleaning, suturing and antibiotics. Closing it with an adhesive bandage traps bacteria, and by the time it swells the infection has spread. Superglue traps infection in the same way. Hitting the iguana is not training; it damages the relationship and invites the next bite.

IssuesDespite weeks of head bobbing and threat displays from a male in breeding season, the owner reached into the cage bare-handed from the front. The rise in breeding-season aggression and the need for protection such as long sleeves and gloves were not recognized.

ImprovementRecognize that male aggression rises in breeding season (around spring) and do not reach in during threat displays. Feed and clean wearing thick long sleeves and leather gloves, and arrange the food dish so it can be put in and taken out without opening the door. Keep your distance and do not provoke it while it is head bobbing.

Evening. A 3-year-old green iguana out in the living room chewed an electrical cord behind the TV; there was a loud crack and it jumped back. It now has a white burn-like mark at the mouth, is drooling, and will not close its mouth. Breathing is slightly fast but it can walk. Part of the cord's insulation is split.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Since it can walk, assume it is fine, apply ointment to the mouth and watch
2. Switch off the breaker before retrieving it, and because of the mouth burn and breathing change, see a vet the same day
3. Immediately pick it up bare-handed to get it away from the cord and give it water
4. Electric shock only burns the mouth, so see a vet tomorrow if the drooling continues

AnswerB. Switch off the breaker before retrieving it, and because of the mouth burn and breathing change, see a vet the same day

ExplanationElectric shock causes not only mouth burns but can lead to pulmonary edema or arrhythmia hours later. First switch off the breaker to prevent a second shock, retrieve the iguana, and see a vet the same day to have the oral burn and heart and lung function examined. Being able to walk is no proof it is not serious, and human ointment gets into the mouth and is harmful. Touching it bare-handed while current is flowing shocks you too, and giving water achieves nothing. Waiting until tomorrow risks sudden collapse from pulmonary edema.

IssuesElectrical cords were exposed in the roaming area with no precautions against its habit of chewing. The owner did not know the safe response to electric shock (cutting power) or that symptoms can appear later.

ImprovementCover cords in the roaming room or secure them behind furniture, and unplug appliances not in use. Share with the family that cutting the power comes first in an electric shock. After a shock, see a vet the same day even without symptoms and watch breathing for 24 hours.

A December night. A 6-year-old green iguana 1.5 m long suddenly had a seizure, and the animal hospital said to bring it in right away. It is a 40-minute drive. On hand are a large fabric carrier, a plastic storage bin, blankets and disposable heat packs. It is 5°C outside, and the iguana is still arching its body from time to time.

Which is the most appropriate way to transport it?

1. Wrap it tightly in a blanket so it cannot struggle and hold it on your lap in the passenger seat
2. Put it in the storage bin, load it in the trunk, and drive fast with no heating
3. Put several bare heat packs in the fabric carrier so the iguana can touch them directly
4. Line a storage bin with air holes with cloth, place it in without bending the tail, add a cloth-wrapped heat pack, keep it dark, and warm the car

AnswerD. Line a storage bin with air holes with cloth, place it in without bending the tail, add a cloth-wrapped heat pack, keep it dark, and warm the car

ExplanationA large iguana's tail can fracture if bent, so line a long storage bin with cloth and place it in with the tail straight. Make air holes, keep it warm with a cloth-wrapped heat pack, keep it dark to reduce stimulation, warm the car above 25°C, and avoid vibration. Wrapping in a blanket restricts breathing, and holding a seizing animal on your lap risks a fall or a bite. An unheated trunk cools rapidly in 5°C air, and bare heat packs cause low-temperature burns.

IssuesNo transport method for a large iguana had been prepared, so the owner had to improvise with what was on hand. There was no plan for warmth and transport in a winter nighttime emergency.

ImprovementKeep a long transport container with air holes sized for an adult, together with cloth, heat packs and a thermometer. Confirm the route and travel time to a reptile hospital with after-hours service, and share with the family a procedure for pre-warming the car in winter.

October. A 6-month-old green iguana brought home two weeks ago has not touched its chopped komatsuna for three days. No droppings for two days either. The cage is by a window, and the thermometer reads 26°C by day and drops to 21°C at night. The UVB light is on, but a basking light has not been bought yet. It is thin and sits still under its branch even during the day.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. It is just not settled in yet, so put out its favorite fruit and wait a week
2. Raise the temperature to around 30°C by day with a 35°C basking spot, and because it has fasted 3 days, see a vet the same day
3. Force its mouth open and syringe vegetable puree down its throat
4. It is not eating because it is cold, so give warm soaks 3 times a day to warm it

AnswerB. Raise the temperature to around 30°C by day with a 35°C basking spot, and because it has fasted 3 days, see a vet the same day

ExplanationGreen iguanas are ectotherms; at 26°C by day and 21°C at night, digestion and metabolism do not function, appetite falls and energy drains away. Juveniles have few reserves, and 3 or more days without eating calls for a vet the same day. First set the temperature to 28–32°C by day, 35–38°C at the basking spot and above 25°C at night, then see a vet the same day for weight and fecal checks. Leaving fruit out and waiting a week lets a juvenile waste away, and blaming adjustment without fixing the underlying cold will not bring recovery. Force-feeding risks aspiration and mouth injury and should be done only at a vet's discretion, and repeated soaks are pointless if it goes back into a cold cage.

IssuesThe juvenile was started in a cold spot by the window, and it was brought home before a basking light was ready. The owner did not know temperature directly drives appetite, took the 3-day fast and 2 days without droppings as settling in, and hesitated to see a vet.

ImprovementBefore bringing it home, set up basking, UVB and a night heater and create a temperature gradient before introducing the animal. Place the cage against a wall, not by a window. Feed juveniles daily, record how much is eaten and droppings; review temperature after 2 days of not eating and see a vet at 3.

August. When cleaning up after a 6-year-old green iguana, the urates, which should be white, are cloudy pink with large hardened granules. You have been busy this past week, often forgetting to change the water dish, and have not been misting the greens. Room temperature is held at 28°C with air conditioning. It is eating, but the eyes look slightly sunken and the skin is slow to spring back when pinched.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Pink is common in summer, so just put out fresh water and watch
2. Give a sports drink to rehydrate quickly and watch until next week
3. Provide fresh water and misting, give a warm soak, photograph the urates, and see a vet the same day
4. Give a small dose of human diuretic to help it pass the urates

AnswerC. Provide fresh water and misting, give a warm soak, photograph the urates, and see a vet the same day

ExplanationHealthy urates are a white paste; cloudy yellow or pink urates signal dehydration, kidney strain or bleeding. Sunken eyes and slow skin return indicate dehydration, which can lead to kidney failure if prolonged. Rehydrate with fresh water, misting of the greens and a 30–32°C soak, and see a vet the same day with photos of the urates and records of drinking and diet for a blood test of kidney function. Just changing the water and watching leaves the dehydration untreated. Sports drinks have sugar and salt unsuited to reptiles, and human diuretics worsen dehydration and can be fatal.

IssuesThe water dish that should be changed daily was left for a week, and misting was neglected, causing summer dehydration. The owner did not know urate color reflects health and was slow to notice the sunken eyes as a sign of dehydration.

ImprovementWash and refill the water dish daily, and soak the greens in water or mist them before feeding. Make warm soaks 2 to 3 times a week a routine. Check urate color and stool before cleaning up, and photograph anything abnormal to show the vet.

An April midday. A 10-month-old green iguana suddenly trembled in its front legs, arched its body and had a seizure. No UVB light was installed because sunlight comes through the window, and the cage was placed near a south-facing window. Calcium powder is sprinkled on every meal. The seizure stopped after about 30 seconds, but the toes are still twitching and it cannot grip its branch.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Feed it calcium-dusted vegetables right away and, since the seizure stopped, watch
2. Move it to a low container at 28–30°C, keep it dark, and contact a reptile vet the same day
3. Open the window and put it in direct sunlight to recover with UV exposure
4. Put a finger in its mouth during the seizure so it does not bite its tongue, and hold it until calm

AnswerB. Move it to a low container at 28–30°C, keep it dark, and contact a reptile vet the same day

ExplanationWindow glass blocks almost all UVB, so a spot by the window does not produce the vitamin D3 needed to absorb calcium. Even with calcium powder, it is not absorbed, blood calcium falls, and tremors and seizures follow. This is a severe stage of metabolic bone disease and an emergency sign to call now. Move it to a low container where it cannot fall, keep it at 28–30°C and dark to avoid stimulation, and see a vet the same day for fluids or injections. Feeding will not help since it cannot absorb, and seizures will recur even though this one stopped. Direct sun causes sudden overheating, a finger in the mouth during a seizure gets bitten, and holding it risks a fall and fracture.

IssuesThe owner mistakenly believed sunlight through glass provides UVB and did not install a dedicated light. Assuming calcium powder made it safe, the owner did not know UVB is essential for absorption.

ImprovementInstall a reptile UVB light on top of the cage, run it 10 to 12 hours daily, and replace it every 6 months. Understand that it has no effect through glass or acrylic. Remember that tremors and seizures are an emergency, and post the vet's phone number on the cage.

June. A 5-year-old female green iguana laid about 20 eggs in her nest box over three days, and thinking laying was over, you cleared the box away. A week later the belly is still swollen, her appetite has not returned, and since yesterday she has been dragging her hind legs. Her color is dark and she passes nothing even in a warm soak. The calcium powder had run out during laying.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Treat it as post-laying exhaustion, increase high-calorie fruit and wait for recovery
2. Give a long warm soak and massage the belly while warming it to get the remaining eggs out
3. Laying is over, so the leg dragging must be a different illness; watch for a few weeks
4. Assume eggs remain, keep her warm and undisturbed, and go the same day to a hospital that can take X-rays

AnswerD. Assume eggs remain, keep her warm and undisturbed, and go the same day to a hospital that can take X-rays

ExplanationGreen iguanas lay dozens of eggs at a time, and laying can stop partway with some retained. A female that has used up large amounts of calcium in laying loses uterine contractility, and retained eggs press on nerves and blood vessels, causing hind-leg dragging and loss of appetite. Persistent swelling and paralysis mean egg binding and need a vet the same day to confirm retained eggs by X-ray and give calcium or surgery. Fruit will not cure it, and massaging the belly can rupture eggs and cause peritonitis. A belly still swollen after laying is not normal, and weeks of watching leads to death from exhaustion.

IssuesLarge amounts of calcium are needed around laying, yet the powder had run out. It did not occur to the owner to count the eggs to confirm laying was complete, and the persistent swelling and poor appetite were put down to post-laying fatigue.

ImprovementAdd calcium powder at every feeding from before laying season and keep UVB and temperature right. Do not remove the nest box until the belly swelling is completely gone, and record the number of eggs. If appetite and belly shape have not returned a week after laying, see a vet for X-rays.

November. For the past two weeks, the stool a 3-year-old green iguana passes during its three weekly soaks has been shapeless, watery and foul-smelling. Recently, because winter lettuce was cheap, you switched its staple to lettuce and apple. Night temperatures drop to 22°C on some nights, and there is only one heater. It is eating slightly less but there is no blood. It has lost 100 g in two weeks.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Restore nights to 25°C or above and a leafy-green diet, collect a fresh stool in a container, and see a vet within a few days
2. Feed yogurt or a human probiotic hoping to settle the gut
3. The diarrhea is from the soaks, so stop them and keep it in a dry environment
4. Increase the apple to boost appetite and wait a month for the stool to firm up

AnswerA. Restore nights to 25°C or above and a leafy-green diet, collect a fresh stool in a container, and see a vet within a few days

ExplanationA diet based on lettuce and apple is high in water and sugar and low in nutrients, and 22°C nights impair digestion, so the diarrhea has continued. Parasites or bacterial infection are also possible, so restore nights to 25°C or above, return the staple to greens such as komatsuna and bok choy, collect a fresh stool in a container, and see a vet within a few days for a fecal exam. If bloody stool or refusal to eat is added, go the same day. Yogurt and human probiotics do not suit a reptile's gut and make things worse. Soaks aid hydration and defecation, so there is no reason to stop them. More fruit worsens diarrhea, and a month's delay advances weight loss and dehydration.

IssuesThe staple was switched to lettuce and fruit because they were cheap, causing malnutrition and diarrhea. No heater was added when night temperatures dropped, and two weeks of diarrhea and weight loss were taken lightly, delaying the vet visit.

ImprovementMake nutrient-rich greens such as komatsuna, bok choy and mulukhiyah the staple, with lettuce and fruit only as extras. Use two heaters in winter to keep nights above 25°C. Record stool condition daily, and see a vet with a sample if diarrhea lasts 3 days.

January. To fight the cold, you placed a reptile heat panel directly on the cage floor. A 2-year-old green iguana began sleeping on it every night with its belly pressed down. Ten days later there are three black discolored patches on the belly scales, and in one place the skin has peeled to show raw red flesh. It dislikes being touched there but is eating. No thermostat is fitted.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Treat it as a kind of shed, pull off the peeling skin and wait for the next shed
2. The black patches are dirt, so scrub them off with a brush in a soak
3. Move the heater where the body cannot touch it, cover the area with dry gauze, and see a vet the same day
4. Apply over-the-counter burn cream, lower the heater temperature slightly, and watch

AnswerC. Move the heater where the body cannot touch it, cover the area with dry gauze, and see a vet the same day

ExplanationReptiles sense heat poorly through the belly, and sleeping for hours on a hot panel causes low-temperature burns. Black patches and peeling skin on the belly are typical, and the damage is often deeper than it looks. Immediately move the heater where the body cannot touch it or control it with a thermostat, cover the area with dry clean gauze, and see a vet the same day for infection prevention and depth assessment. Pulling off peeling skin widens the wound, and scrubbing damages dead tissue and invites infection. Human cream has unknown ingredients, and lowering the temperature slightly does not stop a burn from progressing while contact continues.

IssuesThe heat panel was placed directly on the floor without a thermostat where the animal could lie on it. The belly is hard to see day to day, and the burn progressed unnoticed for ten days. No thermometer was placed at floor level.

ImprovementMount heaters outside or on the side of the cage and always control them with a thermostat. Check surface temperature with a floor-level thermometer. Inspect the belly and inner limbs at every soak to catch discoloration or peeling early.

A holiday afternoon. While a 4-year-old green iguana was sunbathing in the living room, the medium-sized dog that was supposed to be in another room opened the door, came in and bit its front leg. You pulled the dog off at once, but there are two tooth-mark punctures on the leg oozing blood. The iguana is whipping its tail hard and walking with the bitten leg held up. There is no visible bone deformity.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. The holes are small, so flush in antiseptic, apply an adhesive bandage and watch for a few days
2. Return the dog to the other room, move the iguana to a container, press gently with gauze, and see a vet the same day
3. Bleeding is light, so put it in a warm soak to calm it and rinse the wound
4. Bend and straighten the front leg to check for a fracture, and watch if it moves

AnswerB. Return the dog to the other room, move the iguana to a container, press gently with gauze, and see a vet the same day

ExplanationEven small dog-bite punctures go deep, carrying bacteria from the dog's mouth into the tissue and causing abscesses or sepsis days later. The force of the bite can also cause fractures or internal bleeding. First isolate the dog, move the iguana to a container, press the wound gently with gauze, and see a vet the same day for wound cleaning, antibiotics and X-rays if needed. Flushing antiseptic and closing with a bandage traps bacteria, and rinsing in a soak does not remove deep bacteria and lets water into the wound. Forcing the leg to bend and straighten worsens any fracture.

IssuesThe iguana was loose beyond a door the dog could open, and the separation of dog and iguana was inadequate. The owner underestimated that dogs instinctively bite an iguana's tail and limbs, and left it unwatched while sunbathing.

ImprovementKeep dogs and cats in a completely separate room from the iguana, and fit locks or stoppers on doors while it is out. Always have someone present during sunbathing or free time. Set times for family or guests to let the dog out and do not overlap them with the iguana's time out.

March. A 3-year-old and a 4-year-old male green iguana kept in the same large cage were head bobbing intensely from the morning, and when you came home the smaller one had several lacerations on its back and neck with blood caked on the scales. The larger one is unhurt; the smaller one is in a corner with darkened color and whips its tail when approached. Its food is untouched.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Fighting is just establishing rank, so keep them together and wait for it to settle
2. Spray alcohol antiseptic on the wounds and soak the two together to calm them
3. Scold the larger one and put it in another room, and leave the smaller one as is and watch
4. Isolate the injured one in a separate cage, keep it warm, cover the wounds with gauze, and see a vet the same day

AnswerD. Isolate the injured one in a separate cage, keep it warm, cover the wounds with gauze, and see a vet the same day

ExplanationGreen iguanas are solitary, and especially in the spring breeding season males fight over territory and inflict deep lacerations with their serrated teeth. Lacerations on the back and neck are easily infected by oral bacteria and lead to abscesses or sepsis if left. First isolate the injured one in a separate cage, keep it warm, cover the wounds with clean gauze, and see a vet the same day for cleaning and antibiotics. If they stay together, the fighting repeats and the weaker one wastes away from refusing food and stress. Alcohol damages tissue, and soaking them together invites further attack. Scolding does not change animal instinct; isolation and treatment come first.

IssuesTwo solitary, strongly territorial males were kept in the same cage, and the owner did not know aggression rises in breeding season. The morning head bobbing was a threat signal, yet they were not separated before leaving the house.

ImprovementKeep green iguanas one per cage as a rule, and never house males together. Keep a spare cage so they can be separated the moment head bobbing or color changes appear. If keeping several, arrange them so they cannot see each other, and watch especially closely in spring.

A summer evening. While cleaning a 6-year-old male green iguana's cage, you moved your hand and it bit the base of your finger. It is not letting go and is clamping its jaws harder. You are about to cry out from the pain and feel the urge to yank your hand away. Nearby are a spray bottle of water and a thin plastic card. The family is out and you are alone.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Shout to startle it and yank your hand free
2. Grab the tail and pull its body away to make it open its mouth
3. Stay still and silent, lower your hand to floor level, spray water on its snout and wait for it to let go
4. Pry its mouth open with your free hand and pinch its nose to stop its breathing

AnswerC. Stay still and silent, lower your hand to floor level, spray water on its snout and wait for it to let go

ExplanationIguana teeth are serrated, and pulling your hand out while bitten tears the flesh and deepens the wound. First stay still and silent, lower the bitten hand to floor level to reassure the animal, and spray water on its snout or dip its mouth in water; it usually lets go. If not, slide a thin card into the side of its mouth and gently pry it open. Once released, cover its head with a cloth, return it to the cage, rinse the wound under running water for 5 minutes and go to a hospital if it is deep. Shouting or sudden movement makes it clamp harder out of fear, and grabbing the tail causes autotomy or fractures. Prying the mouth or pinching the nose injures the animal and provokes an even harder bite.

IssuesDuring breeding season, while cleaning inside its territory, the owner moved a hand suddenly in front of the male's face. The correct release method was not known in advance, and working alone made a calm response hard. No gloves or long sleeves were worn.

ImprovementMove the iguana to a separate container before cleaning, and never move your hands suddenly inside the cage. Share the bite-release procedure with the family and keep a spray bottle and thin card by the cage. Wear thick gloves and long sleeves, and postpone work while it is displaying.

Two weeks after moving to a new glass cage, a 2-year-old green iguana walks toward the glass all day and presses its snout against it. Today the scales on the snout have come off and it is red and raw, oozing a little blood. The cage is in the middle of the room, fully transparent and in plain view from outside. It is eating and shows no other problems.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Apply human wound ointment to the snout and stretch a net across the front so it does not hit the glass
2. The wound is shallow, so leave it and wait for the iguana to learn about the glass
3. Cover three sides of the glass, move the cage to a wall, and see a vet within a few days before the wound deepens
4. It wants out, so switch to free-roaming and stop using the cage

AnswerC. Cover three sides of the glass, move the cage to a wall, and see a vet within a few days before the wound deepens

ExplanationReptiles cannot see clear glass and keep rubbing their snout trying to get out. Repeated abrasion can expose the bone of the snout and lead to infection or mouth rot. Cover three sides of the glass with opaque sheeting, move the cage to a wall to reduce outside stimulation, and while it is only oozing blood, see a vet within a few days for wound care. Human ointment is harmful if licked or swallowed, and a net snags claws and causes other injuries. Left alone, the iguana will not learn about glass and the wound only deepens. Free-roaming brings frequent falls and swallowing accidents and solves nothing.

IssuesA fully transparent cage was placed in the middle of the room, creating an unsettling environment with constant outside movement in view. The snout abrasion was predictable from two weeks of behavior, yet nothing was changed until it was raw.

ImprovementPlace the cage against a wall and cover the back and sides with opaque sheeting to create a calm space. Provide a hiding place such as cork bark. Check the snout and mouth in daily observation, and revise the layout if it keeps going at the glass.

Sunday morning. You were giving an 8-month-old green iguana a warm soak in the bathtub. The water came up to its back, and you stepped away for about 5 minutes to answer the phone. On returning, it was floating belly-up with its mouth open and not moving. When you lifted it, water came out of its mouth and nose. The flanks seem to be moving faintly. Room temperature is 26°C.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Hold the head lower than the body to drain water from the mouth and nose, wipe discharge with a cotton swab, keep it warm and contact an emergency hospital
2. Blow hard into its mouth as for human rescue breathing and do firm chest compressions
3. It is breathing, so put it back in the warm tub to warm up and recover on its own
4. It is not moving, so dry it with a hair dryer on warm and wait for it to come round

AnswerA. Hold the head lower than the body to drain water from the mouth and nose, wipe discharge with a cotton swab, keep it warm and contact an emergency hospital

ExplanationIguanas can swim, but a tired juvenile drowns in water that reaches its back. Water from the mouth and nose means water has entered the airway: hold the head lower than the body so it drains naturally, wipe discharge from the mouth and nose with a cotton swab, and secure the airway. Then keep it warm at 28–30°C, and if there is any breathing at all, contact an emergency reptile hospital. Water in the lungs causes pneumonia later, so a vet visit is needed even if it seems to recover. Firm chest compressions are ineffective and break ribs, and forceful rescue breaths also risk Salmonella. Back in the tub it will drown again, and a hair dryer damages the skin and swings body temperature.

IssuesThe juvenile was soaked in water that was too deep and left unwatched for 5 minutes. The basics of keeping the water belly-deep and never leaving were ignored, and the owner did not know how to respond to drowning.

ImprovementKeep soaks shallow, just covering the belly, and never leave during one. Ignore the phone and visitors during a soak, or take the animal out first. Put a flat stone or ramp in the tub as a foothold. Write the drowning procedure on paper and post it in the bathroom.

Evening. Closing the double doors of a 3-year-old green iguana's cage after feeding, you caught the toes of a front foot in the gap. You opened it at once, but two toes are swollen and purple, and the iguana holds that leg up and walks on three. The toes stay bent, it will not move them, and it strongly resists being touched. There is no bleeding.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Straighten the toes back into shape, tape them to the neighboring toe and watch
2. No bleeding, so treat it as a bruise and watch for a week until the swelling goes down
3. Do not touch it; move it to a low container, keep it warm, and see a vet the same day for X-rays
4. Soak the foot in ice water to reduce the swelling and continue until it no longer hurts

AnswerC. Do not touch it; move it to a low container, keep it warm, and see a vet the same day for X-rays

ExplanationToes caught in a door that are swollen, discolored and held bent and motionless are very likely fractured or dislocated. An amateur attempt to straighten them can drive bone fragments into vessels and nerves, leading to necrosis and loss of the toe. Do not touch the area; move it to a low container, keep it warm, and see a vet the same day for X-rays and treatment. Fractures occur without bleeding, and a week's delay lets the bone heal displaced with lasting damage. Ice water lowers an ectotherm's body temperature, stresses the whole body and damages tissue through overcooling.

IssuesThere was no habit of checking the limbs and tail before closing the door, and the owner did not consider that the iguana had come to the door right after feeding. A door design with a gap that toes slip into was left as is.

ImprovementClose the door slowly only after visually confirming the animal is away from it. Pad the door edges with cushioning to eliminate the gap. Do not place the food dish near the door; guide the animal to the back before operating the door.

A sunny day in May. You were walking a 5-year-old green iguana around the neighborhood on your shoulder. Startled by a motorcycle, it leapt off and landed belly-first on the asphalt 1.5 m below. It now lies with legs splayed, not moving, breathing with its mouth slightly open. The base of the tail looks bent at an unnatural angle, and its color turned black suddenly when you approached.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Pick it up, run home, put it in the cage and wait for it to settle
2. Stand it on the ground to see if it can walk and move each leg one at a time
3. Straighten the bent tail by hand, wrap it in a towel and go home
4. Cover it with a cloth to reduce stimulation, slide it whole onto a flat board or box without moving it, and call a hospital right now

AnswerD. Cover it with a cloth to reduce stimulation, slide it whole onto a flat board or box without moving it, and call a hospital right now

ExplanationA fall from height onto hard ground causes fractures, internal bleeding and spinal injury; not moving or a deformed body after a fall is an emergency sign to call right now. Cover it with a cloth to limit agitation, slide the whole body onto a flat board or box without twisting it, transport it with the tail unbent and see a vet for X-rays. Picking it up and running worsens spinal or organ injuries, and standing it up to move its legs damages the fracture site. Straightening the bent tail by hand extends fracture and nerve damage. A sudden blackening of color signals severe stress or deterioration, so reducing stimulation is critical.

IssuesTaking the iguana outdoors on the shoulder, a high-risk practice for falls and escape, had become a habit. The owner did not account for its instinct to leap when startled and used no harness or safe container.

ImprovementOutdoors, use a ventilated mesh cage or carrier; never walk with it on your shoulder. Sunbathe in your own yard or on the balcony, unattended never, and limit it to 10 to 20 minutes. Share with the family that after a fall it must not be handled but slid onto a board for transport.

Morning. Looking into the cage, you find a 2-year-old green iguana hanging from its fabric hammock by one front foot. Frayed threads are wound many times around two toes, and the toe tips are purple and swollen. It is thrashing and twisting its body, and the hammock is swinging. You do not know how long it has been tangled; it may have been hanging all night.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Lift and support its body, cut the threads with scissors to free it, and see a vet the same day because of the toe discoloration
2. Pull the threads loose by hand, check whether the toes move, and then watch
3. Stay away while it is thrashing and wait for it to calm down and free itself
4. After freeing it, warm the swollen toes in a soak and repeat until circulation returns

AnswerA. Lift and support its body, cut the threads with scissors to free it, and see a vet the same day because of the toe discoloration

ExplanationThrashing while hanging can dislocate the toe joints or tear out nails, so first support the body by hand to take the weight off the toes, then cut the threads with scissors. Purple swollen toes mean blood flow has stopped; if it continues the toes die and are lost. Even after freeing it, you cannot be sure circulation will return, so see a vet the same day to have the toes examined. Pulling the threads tightens them further and injures the toes. Waiting for it to free itself lets the toes die, and thrashing can fracture the shoulder or leg. Soaks stress tissue already damaged by constriction and are no substitute for a vet.

IssuesA frayed fabric item was left in the cage without inspection, and a material that snags claws was used. There was no way to notice a problem overnight, so the constriction continued for hours.

ImprovementChoose tightly woven materials for hammocks and fabric items, inspect them weekly for fraying and replace when worn. Removing fabric from the cage every night is another option. Check the limbs and tail first thing each morning, and if it is hanging, support its weight before freeing it.

Noon. A family member gave a 3-year-old green iguana a leftover salad, reasoning that it was vegetables. It contained several pieces of avocado, and it ate everything an hour ago. Now its mouth area is wet, its breathing is slightly faster than usual, and it is sitting still in a corner of the cage with darkened color. There is no vomiting or diarrhea yet.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Put salt in its mouth to make it vomit and give it lots of water
2. Clear away the remaining salad, note the amount and time eaten, and call a reptile vet right now
3. It was vegetables, so poisoning is impossible; give its usual komatsuna and watch
4. Give milk to neutralize the toxin, and see a vet in the morning if symptoms persist

AnswerB. Clear away the remaining salad, note the amount and time eaten, and call a reptile vet right now

ExplanationPersin in avocado is toxic to many animals, and in reptiles it causes breathing difficulty and effects on the heart, often worsening rapidly once symptoms appear. Faster breathing and dark color an hour after eating are early signs of poisoning; note the amount and time, call a hospital right now and follow their instructions. Inducing vomiting with salt causes electrolyte imbalance and aspiration, and is dangerous because iguanas vomit poorly. Many foods are toxic despite being vegetables, and watching leads to a fatal delay. Milk does not neutralize toxins, and reptiles cannot digest lactose and get diarrhea.

IssuesHuman leftovers were given on the grounds that they were vegetables, and the family did not know that avocado, onions and other foods are toxic to reptiles. Anyone in the family could feed it, and there was no shared list of what is safe.

ImprovementPost a list on the refrigerator of safe vegetables and foods that must never be given (avocado, onion family, potato sprouts, animal protein). Agree as a family never to give human leftovers. Look up where to go for poisoning in advance.

Night. You noticed a 2-year-old free-roaming green iguana chewing a plastic shopping bag on the floor. About 10 cm of the bag's edge is sticking out of its mouth, and it is partway to swallowing it. It shakes its head trying to get it out but cannot. Pulling on it, you feel slight resistance. Shopping bags had been left lying in the room where it roams.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Yank the bag out of its mouth as hard as you can, and watch once it is out
2. Cut the bag off near the mouth, let it swallow the rest, and wait for it to pass with the stool
3. Give cooking oil to make the bag slide through the gut and wait for it to pass naturally
4. Without pulling, gently hold the part outside the mouth so it goes no further, and call a hospital right away for instructions

AnswerD. Without pulling, gently hold the part outside the mouth so it goes no further, and call a hospital right away for instructions

ExplanationIf the partly swallowed plastic has reached the stomach or intestine, forcing it out of the mouth can tear or damage the lining of the digestive tract. Gently hold the part outside the mouth so it is not swallowed further, and call a reptile hospital right away for instructions. Cutting the bag and letting it swallow causes intestinal blockage, and plastic is not digested and usually does not pass in the stool. Oil does not move a foreign body and causes aspiration pneumonia. When there is resistance, do not act on your own judgment; this needs a hospital that can do endoscopy or surgery.

IssuesShopping bags were left lying in the roaming room, with no thought for the iguana's tendency to mouth plastic. It was left unwatched while roaming at night, and the problem went unnoticed from first chewing until it was partly swallowed.

ImprovementBefore letting it out, clear the floor and low furniture of plastic, small objects and houseplants. Let it roam only while you can watch, and return it to the cage when you step away. Decide in advance that for anything swallowed, you do not pull it out but call the hospital.

A summer evening. When using a fogger-type insecticide against cockroaches, you left the iguana's cage in a corner of the same room, covered it with a cloth and set it off. Two hours later, on removing the cloth, the 4-year-old green iguana is drooling, its front legs are trembling finely, and it is breathing with its mouth open. Its eyes tend to close, and the smell of the chemical still lingers in the room.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Open the windows to ventilate, move the iguana to another room, rinse its body with lukewarm water, and call a hospital right now
2. It was covered with a cloth so no chemical reached it; leave it until the smell clears
3. Soak it in 40°C water for 30 minutes to draw out the poison and wait until the trembling stops
4. Milk is said to help with poisoning, so give it milk and watch until morning

AnswerA. Open the windows to ventilate, move the iguana to another room, rinse its body with lukewarm water, and call a hospital right now

ExplanationThe chemicals in a fogger pass through cloth and are absorbed through breathing and the skin. Drooling, trembling and open-mouth breathing are signs of neurotoxicity, and if left, breathing can stop. First ventilate and move it to a chemical-free room, rinse the chemical off its body with lukewarm water, and call a reptile hospital right now. A cloth does not block the chemical, and staying in a room where the smell lingers means continued absorption. A long 40°C soak worsens the poisoning through overheating, and milk neutralizes nothing. Even if the trembling stops, the toxin remains in the body, so a vet visit is essential.

IssuesThe owner did not know insecticides are highly toxic to reptiles and used a fogger in the same room. There was a mistaken belief that a cloth cover made it safe, and the animal was not checked for two hours after use.

ImprovementOn days you use foggers or insecticide sprays, move the iguana to another building or a sealed separate room, ventilate thoroughly afterward and wipe down the cage and equipment with water before returning it. Never use insecticides, deodorizers or air fresheners near the cage.

2 a.m. A strong earthquake (lower 6 on the Japanese scale) toppled a wood-framed glass cage and the front glass shattered. In the blackout, by flashlight, a 3-year-old green iguana lies motionless on the broken glass with dark color. The heater and lights are off. Aftershocks continue and the city has issued an evacuation order. On hand are a plastic storage bin, towels, heat packs and a phone light.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Reach in in the dark, pick it up, wrap it tightly in a blanket and run to the shelter
2. Leave it in the cage until the aftershocks settle and check in the morning
3. Avoid the glass, wrap it in a towel, move it to the storage bin with a cloth-wrapped heat pack, check for injuries, and evacuate with it
4. Put heat packs directly inside the cage for warmth and leave it behind when going to the shelter

AnswerC. Avoid the glass, wrap it in a towel, move it to the storage bin with a cloth-wrapped heat pack, check for injuries, and evacuate with it

ExplanationStaying on broken glass cuts the feet and belly, and as temperature drops in the blackout, cold injury sets in. Wrap it in a towel, avoiding the glass, move it to the storage bin, hold the 20s°C with a cloth-wrapped heat pack, check for bleeding and injuries, and evacuate together. Once things settle, see a vet the same day. Reaching in bare-handed in the dark cuts both you and the animal, and a tight blanket restricts breathing. Leaving it until morning risks death from cold and bleeding. Bare heat packs cause low-temperature burns, and leaving it behind means death from blackout and cold.

IssuesThe cage was not anchored to the wall and the glass had no shatter-proof film. No warming kit for outages or evacuation transport container was kept by the bed, so they had to be found in the dark.

ImprovementAnchor the cage to the wall or floor and apply shatter-proof film to the glass. Keep a storage bin, towels, heat packs, flashlight and thermometer together as an evacuation kit near the cage. Check the shelter's pet policy in advance and agree an evacuation procedure as a family.

11 a.m. in July. You put a 4-year-old green iguana in a mesh cage on the balcony to sunbathe and left it there for about 40 minutes while hanging laundry. When you looked, the cage had no shade, and the iguana was breathing fast with its mouth wide open, stretched out limp on the floor. No water dish was provided. The balcony floor is too hot to touch.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Move it indoors into shade at once, cool it with room-temperature water, watch its breathing in a cool place, and see a vet if it does not improve
2. It has not had enough sun, so add water and continue for another 30 minutes
3. Rush it into cold water from the refrigerator to drop body temperature fast
4. The open mouth is a threat display, so bring it inside, darken the room and leave it

AnswerA. Move it indoors into shade at once, cool it with room-temperature water, watch its breathing in a cool place, and see a vet if it does not improve

ExplanationIn a mesh cage in direct sun with no shade or water, body temperature climbs rapidly into heatstroke. Open-mouth breathing and lying stretched out and limp are classic heatstroke; move it indoors to a cool place at once and lower body temperature gradually by pouring room-temperature water over it or placing it in shallow water. If breathing does not settle or it does not move, see a vet the same day. Continued sun exposure is fatal, and mistaking it for a threat display and leaving it is dangerous too. Plunging it in cold water causes shock from the sudden temperature difference, so cool gradually with room-temperature water. Heatstroke can leave organ damage even after apparent recovery, so watch appetite and droppings for several days.

IssuesThe basics of 10 to 20 minutes, always with shade and water, and never unattended were ignored, and it was left for 40 minutes. The owner did not consider that a balcony floor gets very hot on a midsummer morning and did not check the cage position.

ImprovementLimit outdoor sunbathing to warm days in spring and fall, ending after 10 to 20 minutes. Cover half the cage with cloth for shade and always include a water dish. Set a timer, stay with it, and in midsummer rely on the indoor UVB light only.

8 p.m. in September. An evacuation order has been issued for your area as a large typhoon approaches. You keep a 4-year-old green iguana 1.3 m long. The shelter is an elementary school a 10-minute walk away, and its pet policy is announced as small animals in cages only. A power outage is possible. On hand are a large carrier, cloth, heat packs, ice packs and the leafy greens it is used to.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. It is too large for the shelter, so leave the iguana at home and evacuate alone
2. Put it in a cloth-covered carrier without bending the tail, take a cloth-wrapped heat pack, water and greens, evacuate together and ask the shelter about admission
3. Stay home with the iguana, and if the power fails, spend the night in the car
4. Move the iguana in its cage to the garden shed and bring it back once the wind dies down

AnswerB. Put it in a cloth-covered carrier without bending the tail, take a cloth-wrapped heat pack, water and greens, evacuate together and ask the shelter about admission

ExplanationLeaving the animal at home under an evacuation order risks death from flooding or the cold of a power outage. Put it in a cloth-covered carrier with the tail unbent, keep it warm with a cloth-wrapped heat pack, bring water and the greens it is used to, and evacuate together. If admission is difficult, talk to the shelter staff and use alternatives such as a relative's house or the car's heater. Abandoning it because it is large is also a problem from an animal welfare standpoint, and staying home or sitting in the car exposes you to flooding and falling trees. The garden shed is the most dangerous option, exposed to wind, rain and cold. Checking shelter policies and deciding alternatives in normal times is essential.

IssuesThe shelter's pet policy had not been checked in normal times, and no plan existed for where and how to evacuate a large iguana. Preparations for evacuating together were left to decisions made on the day.

ImprovementCheck your municipality's shelter pet policy in advance, and in case admission is difficult, decide on alternatives such as relatives, friends or a pet hotel. Keep a carrier, cloth, heat packs, water, greens and thermometer in an evacuation bag, and prepare the day before when a typhoon is forecast.

Night. You soaked a 3-year-old green iguana in the family's shared bathtub; it defecated, so you drained the water and rinsed lightly with the shower. Afterward, your 80-year-old grandmother, who lives with you, took her usual bath, and from the next day she has diarrhea and fever. The family has not connected the bathtub and the iguana. The iguana itself is lively and eating well.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Treat grandmother's illness as a cold with over-the-counter medicine, and keep using the tub as before
2. Wash the iguana in hot water to remove the bacteria, and just rinse the tub with water
3. If the iguana were the cause others would be sick too, so wait and see
4. Tell grandmother about the reptile contact and urge her to see a doctor, disinfect the tub with chlorine bleach, and use a dedicated container for soaks from now on

AnswerD. Tell grandmother about the reptile contact and urge her to see a doctor, disinfect the tub with chlorine bleach, and use a dedicated container for soaks from now on

ExplanationEven a healthy iguana carries Salmonella in its gut, and rinsing a tub it defecated in with the shower leaves the bacteria behind. The elderly are prone to severe infection; with diarrhea and fever, she should see a doctor and mention the reptile contact. Disinfect the tub with chlorine bleach, use a dedicated plastic basin or container for soaks from now on, and never wash it in the kitchen or shared areas. Watching with over-the-counter medicine risks dehydration and sepsis in an elderly person. Washing the iguana in hot water does not remove the bacteria and burns the animal. Bacteria are shed even by a symptom-free iguana, so never judge by whether it shows symptoms.

IssuesThe iguana was soaked in the family's shared bathtub and disinfection after defecation was taken lightly. The family had not shared that healthy reptiles carry Salmonella or that the elderly are prone to severe illness.

ImprovementUse a dedicated plastic basin or storage bin for soaks and never the family bathtub. Disinfect with chlorine bleach after any defecation and do not wash equipment in the kitchen. Make it a family rule that the elderly and young children do not touch the iguana or its equipment and that everyone washes hands with soap after care.

Spring. A 2-year-old green iguana kept for a year has several white thread-like strands in its stool and has had soft stool for a week. A 1-year-old iguana brought home two months ago is in a separate cage, but they share the same plastic basin for soaks and the same cleaning sponge. This morning the new one also passed soft stool. Both are eating.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. The white strands are vegetable fiber, so ignore them and just review the diet
2. Calculate a dose by weight and give both an over-the-counter dog and cat dewormer
3. Put each one's stool in a separate container, get fecal exams within a few days, and separate and disinfect the soak container and equipment for each animal
4. Soak them daily until the worms come out, and consider it fine once the stool firms up

AnswerC. Put each one's stool in a separate container, get fecal exams within a few days, and separate and disinfect the soak container and equipment for each animal

ExplanationWhite thread-like strands in the stool are very likely parasites such as nematodes, and a week of soft stool is probably their effect. Sharing the soak basin and sponge carried eggs across and infected the second iguana. Put each stool in a separate container, get fecal exams within a few days, and deworm with the vet's prescription. Separate the soak container, sponge and water dish for each animal and disinfect with chlorine bleach. Dismissing it as fiber lets the infection spread, and dog and cat dewormers are unsuited to reptiles with dangerous dosing. More soaks do not kill worms, and eggs keep being shed even once the stool firms up.

IssuesAfter bringing home the new iguana, no fecal exam was done, and sharing the soak container and cleaning tools spread the parasites. Soft stool was left for a week, and knowledge of fecal-oral parasite transmission was lacking.

ImprovementGet a fecal exam in the first week after bringing a new animal home and quarantine it for a month. Provide a separate soak container, sponge and water dish for each animal and never share them. Remove feces promptly and disinfect any container defecated in with chlorine bleach. Do annual fecal exams on all animals.

Evening. After chewing the corner of a hard piece of driftwood newly added to the cage, a 2-year-old green iguana is bleeding from the corner of its mouth. Wiping with a tissue, blood oozes again every few minutes and mixes with its drool. Inside the mouth, the gums are red and swollen and it seems to be bleeding from between the teeth. It has not stopped after 10 minutes. The iguana will not try to eat and holds its mouth half open.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. Press the corner of the mouth gently with clean gauze for 5 minutes, and see a vet the same day if it does not stop
2. Pack styptic powder or tissue into the mouth and hold it shut until the blood clots
3. Mouth blood looks like more than it is because it mixes with saliva, so give water and watch
4. Firm pressure will stop it, so clamp the jaws hard between both hands for 30 minutes

AnswerA. Press the corner of the mouth gently with clean gauze for 5 minutes, and see a vet the same day if it does not stop

ExplanationMouth bleeding comes from easily damaged mucosa and is hard to stop, and swollen gums may hide mouth rot or tooth damage. Press the corner of the mouth gently with clean gauze for 5 minutes; bleeding that does not stop in 5 minutes, or any bleeding from the mouth, warrants a vet, so go the same day to have the wound and any infection assessed. Packing styptic powder or tissue into the mouth causes aspiration or choking and irritates the mucosa. Even if diluted by saliva, bleeding lasting over 10 minutes is abnormal, and giving water does not stop it. Clamping the jaws hard causes fractures and more bleeding and obstructs breathing.

IssuesDriftwood with sharp corners was put in the cage without boiling-water disinfection or sanding. The owner did not know mouth bleeding is hard to stop and can overlap with early mouth rot, and did not know the method of stopping bleeding (gentle pressure for 5 minutes).

ImprovementSand the corners off new driftwood and disinfect it with boiling water before adding it. Keep clean gauze in the first-aid kit, and set the rule: gentle pressure for 5 minutes, then a vet if it does not stop. Check the mouth and gums daily to catch swelling or deposits early.

11:30 p.m. on a weekday. Coming home, you see that a 2-year-old green iguana's lower jaw is swollen on both sides and its body sways from side to side when it walks. It had an appetite until yesterday, and there are no seizures or open-mouth breathing. The UVB light was replaced 8 months ago. The nearby reptile clinic opens at 9 tomorrow morning; the emergency (after-hours) hospital is a 2-hour drive and it is unclear whether it sees reptiles.

Which is the most appropriate first action?

1. No seizures or breathing problems, so wait until your day off next week
2. Crush a human calcium tablet, give it tonight, and check tomorrow whether the swelling is down
3. Put it in a soak and let it climb its branch to check how weak the bones are by watching it move
4. Move it to a low container to prevent falls, keep it warm, and see the reptile clinic first thing in the morning

AnswerD. Move it to a low container to prevent falls, keep it warm, and see the reptile clinic first thing in the morning

ExplanationLower jaw swelling and swaying when walking are signs of metabolic bone disease that warrant a vet the same day, but none of the call-now emergency signs are present: no seizures, no open-mouth breathing, no unresponsiveness after a fall. Rather than a 2-hour drive to a distant emergency hospital that may not see reptiles, it is safer to keep it warm and quiet in a low container where it cannot fall and see the specialist clinic first thing in the morning. Waiting until next week lets it progress to fractures or seizures. Human calcium tablets have an unknown dose, risk aspiration and do not fix the underlying UVB shortage. Soaks and branch climbing with weak bones lead to falls and fractures.

IssuesThe UVB light was past its 8-month mark and its UV output had dropped. The owner did not know the criteria for choosing between an emergency hospital tonight and the clinic in the morning, and had not checked in advance which clinics offer after-hours service.

ImprovementWrite down the call-now emergency signs (seizures, open-mouth breathing, unresponsive after a fall, female with swollen belly and limp) and the same-day signs on paper and post it on the cage. Check the reptile clinic's hours and after-hours contact in advance. Replace UVB every 6 months.

A winter night. A 5-year-old green iguana has not eaten greens for three days and has stopped passing droppings, so you have decided to see the reptile clinic first thing tomorrow. It is 1.4 m long and the clinic is a 30-minute drive. You want to get ready tonight but do not know what to bring. The cage thermometer reads 30°C by day and 24°C at night.

Which is the most appropriate preparation for the visit?

1. Take away both water and greens so it is empty for examination, and give nothing until morning
2. Note the temperature, humidity, UVB replacement date, diet, last droppings and weight trend, prepare photos of stool and urates, and phone to confirm the clinic sees reptiles
3. Give a long soak right before the visit to clean it, and flush any stool so it arrives clean
4. Put it in a small box with the tail folded, close the lid and load it in the car trunk

AnswerB. Note the temperature, humidity, UVB replacement date, diet, last droppings and weight trend, prepare photos of stool and urates, and phone to confirm the clinic sees reptiles

ExplanationFor reptile examinations, information on husbandry and history is key to diagnosis. Note the temperature, humidity, UVB replacement date, diet, last droppings and weight trend, prepare photos of stool and urates, and phone to confirm the clinic sees reptiles. For the visit, use a long cloth-covered container with the tail unbent and keep the car above 25°C with a cloth-wrapped heat pack. Removing water advances dehydration and further burdens a fasting animal. A long soak right before the visit drains its strength, and flushing stool throws away the sample for a fecal exam. A small box with the tail folded causes fractures, and an unheated trunk causes cold injury in winter.

IssuesThe owner did not know what husbandry information or items to bring to a vet visit and had not been keeping records of temperature, diet, droppings and weight. No transport container for a large animal had been prepared.

ImprovementKeep records of temperature and humidity, UVB replacement date, diet, droppings and monthly weight in a notebook or app. Photograph any abnormal stool or urates. Assemble a transport kit with a long adult-sized container with air holes, heat packs and cloth, and confirm the clinic's reptile service and hours.