Fish & aquatic animals
Loach
Pond loach (weather loach), striped loach, golden pond loach, etc.
Most important: Seal every gap in the lid. Jumping out is the most common cause of death
Basics
- Lifespan
- Pond loach 5–10 years, striped loach 3–5 years
- Weight
- Body length: pond loach 10–20 cm, striped loach 8–12 cm
- Temperament
- Gentle and timid. Nocturnal; burrows into sand. Good for community tanks
- Care difficulty
- Easy to moderate (hardy, but vulnerable to jumping out and high water temperature)
- Legal status
- Not covered by the Act on Welfare and Management of Animals. Collecting kissing loach and similar species is banned under the Act on Conservation of Endangered Species
- Key point
- Seal every gap in the lid. Jumping out is the most common cause of death
Ecology & traits
- Body
- Finds food with mouth barbels (pond loach 5 pairs, striped loach 3 pairs). Scales are tiny and covered in mucus; it also breathes through its intestine
- Origin & range
- Rice paddies, streams and irrigation channels across Japan and East Asia
- Wild habitat
- Shallow still or slow-moving water with a mud or sand bottom. Common in paddies and wetlands
- Activity & sleep
- Nocturnal. Burrows in sand by day; after dark, probes the bottom with its barbels to feed
- Social behavior & people
- Solitary on the bottom rather than schooling. Weakly territorial; can be kept with its own and other species
Characteristic behaviors
- Intestinal breathing: gulps air at the surface and releases bubbles from the vent. Normal, but frequent gulping signals low oxygen
- Swims around restlessly before falling air pressure or thunderstorms. Once used to forecast the weather
- Burrows into sand or leaps at the surface when startled. Stays still in the sand at low water temperatures
Common illnesses: warning signs & prevention
Ich (white spot disease)
SignsSalt-grain-like white spots on body and fins. Rubs body against sand or driftwood. Common after a drop in water temperature
PreventionKeep temperature changes within 2°C per day. Quarantine new fish in a separate container for 1–2 weeks before adding them
Fungal infection (saprolegnia)
SignsWhite cotton-like growth on wounds or around the mouth. Develops after jumping out or from abrasions on coarse gravel
PreventionUse fine sand with no sharp edges as substrate. If injured, isolate early in clean water
Aeromonas infection
SignsRed patches or bleeding on the skin, swollen belly, raised scales. Progresses to hole-like ulcers
PreventionMaintain water quality with a weekly 1/3 water change. Remove leftover food daily and avoid overcrowding
Columnaris
SignsMouth, fins and tail turn white, rot and fray. Progresses rapidly in hot summer water
PreventionKeep water at or below 28°C in summer. Isolate sick fish immediately; use separate nets and tools per tank
Oxygen deficiency / heat stress
SignsIntestinal breathing every few minutes. Gasps at the surface and does not return to the bottom. Sluggish
PreventionAdd aeration and a cooling fan in summer. Check the thermometer daily; never let it exceed 30°C
Indigestion / abdominal bloating
SignsSwollen belly; floats or cannot sink. No feces and refuses food
PreventionFeed sinking food in amounts eaten within a few minutes. Reduce feeding at low temperatures; never use old food
Warning-sign checklist
Check once a day. If even one applies, contact an animal hospital early.
First aid for illness
White spots / body rubbing
Raise the water temperature 1–2°C per day to 26–28°C and do a 1/3 water change. Because scales are tiny, ask a shop or vet before medicating and dose more cautiously than the label
Frequent intestinal breathing
Measure the water temperature first and set aeration to maximum. If near 30°C, lower it with a cooling fan and small, repeated water changes; split up fish if overcrowded
Red patches / ulcers
Isolate in a separate container with fresh water at the same temperature. Monitor in a 0.3–0.5% salt bath; if ulcers spread, consult a vet or shop the same day
Bloating / floating
Stop feeding for 2–3 days and stabilize the temperature. Lower the water level so intestinal breathing is easier; see a vet if no improvement
Common injuries: prevention & first aid
Jumping out and drying
PreventionSeal every gap in the lid and around cords and tubing. Do not startle. Keep the water level at least 5 cm below the rim
First aidCheck whether the body moves; gently wet it with tank water, mucus and all, and return it to the tank. Increase aeration, darken and keep quiet
Skin abrasions
PreventionFine sand only as substrate. Avoid sharp rocks and driftwood; do not chase with a net
First aidIsolate in clean water at the same temperature with a 0.3% salt bath. If white cotton appears, treat as fungus. Deep wounds: see a vet
Barbel damage
PreventionDo not use coarse gravel or sharp-edged substrate. Barbels rot in poor water, so keep up with water changes
First aidThey regenerate on their own in clean water. If rotting, increase water changes and reduce food to prevent bacterial infection
Sucked into filter intake
PreventionFit a sponge over the filter intake. Use a heater with a guard and leave no gaps
First aidSwitch off the power, then free the fish gently. For burns or bleeding, rest in a separate container with strong aeration
Zoonoses (diseases that can spread to people)
Atypical mycobacteriosis
RouteThrough cuts on the hands when touching tank water or sick fish
PreventionKeep hands out of the tank when you have a cut. Wash with soap after work
Aeromonas infection
RouteThrough wounds that touch tank water or sick fish
PreventionWear gloves when handling sick fish. See a doctor if a wound becomes red and swollen
Gnathostomiasis
RouteLarvae enter the body when loach is eaten raw (live "dancing" loach)
PreventionNever eat pet or wild fish raw. Cooked only
Salmonellosis
RouteHand to mouth after touching tank water, substrate or equipment
PreventionDo not wash tank equipment in the kitchen. Children must wash hands after tank work
Husbandry: food, water, toys, nest, bedding
Food
- Sinking tablets or loach food, 1–2 times a day
- Feed after lights-out, only as much as is eaten within a few minutes
- Frozen bloodworms or tubifex as a treat 1–2 times a week
Water
- Dechlorinated tap water. Near-neutral pH 6.5–7.5
- Change 1/3 weekly with water at the same temperature. Never do a full water change
Never feed
- Floating food only (cannot be eaten; it is left over and fouls the water)
- Human food, bread, rice (fouls water and causes indigestion)
- Large amounts of food (leftovers breed Aeromonas)
Toys & play
- Fine sand 3–5 cm deep for burrowing
- Hides: clay pipes, terracotta tubes, under driftwood
- Hardy plants such as anacharis (roots are easily uprooted)
Nest, bed & hideout
- Provide at least one hide per fish
- A dark, calm spot by day. Burrowing in the sand is its bed
Bedding & litter
- Fine, rounded sand such as paddy sand or bottom sand
- Coarse gravel and Oiso gravel injure barbels and skin
- Siphon feces out of the substrate with a gravel cleaner at each water change
Housing: cage, exercise, temperature & humidity
Cage / housing material
Glass or acrylic tank. A gap-free lid is essential
Size & space
45–60 cm tank for about 5 fish. A water depth of about 20 cm is enough
Layout
- Maximize floor area and place several hides
- Use a low-flow sponge or undergravel filter
- Plug cord and tubing holes with filter wool or covers
Placement notes
- Out of direct sunlight and the summer afternoon sun
- On a stable stand with little footstep vibration
Exercise, free-roam & walks
- No walks needed. Swimming in the tank at night is its exercise
- Do not handle; move it in a container with its water
- If too bright by day, it stays hidden
Temperature & humidity
Temperature15–25°C is ideal. Tolerates 5–28°C, but no sudden changes
HumidityHumidity is irrelevant. A lid prevents evaporation and jumping out
Summer & winter
- Summer: cooling fan and extra aeration to keep below 28°C
- Winter: no heater needed, but keep indoors to prevent freezing. Reduce food
Grooming & protection from predators
Nail trimming
No nail trimming. Instead, do a weekly water change and substrate cleaning, and squeeze-rinse the filter sponge in tank water
Brushing, skin & coat care
Do not touch the skin. Mucus is a protective layer; even netting causes injury. Scoop with a container, water and all
Other care
Barbels are a health indicator. Short or rotting barbels mean poor water quality. Check lid and cord gaps monthly
Protection from predators
- Weigh down the lid so cats and birds cannot open it
- Large fish and crayfish will prey on loaches if kept together
- Outdoors, net against herons and raccoons
Care precautions (accident prevention)
Foreign-body ingestion
May swallow coarse gravel with food and get blocked. Use fine sand only, and leave no net or wool fibers in the tank
Being stepped on
Loaches that jump out are often stepped on in dark rooms. If you find one on the floor, pick it up and return it to the tank before anyone steps on it. Never give up on a fish just because it fell to the floor
Getting pinched
Gets wedged in filter intakes, gaps between heater and glass, and cracks in driftwood. Fit a sponge over the intake and leave no narrow gaps
Falls
Jumping out is most common at night, when startled, or when water quality is poor. Weigh down the lid, keep the water level 5 cm or more below the rim, and rehydrate a dried fish in water
Escape
Escapes through lid gaps, overflows and drains. Search around the tank first; even a dry fish on the floor should go back into water to check for a response
How to safely release a bite
Never do this
- Loaches do not bite. Do not grip with bare hands and make it thrash
- Do not grab by hand even if it is being chased by large fish or crayfish
Safe release procedure
- Stop cohabiting with predatory fish immediately. Scoop the loach with a container
- If chased by fin-nippers, use a divider or a separate tank
- If you must hold it, use wet hands, briefly, over the water surface
- If it thrashes and may fall, bring it close to the water and let it slip off
After the release
Torn fins and barbels regenerate in clean water. If white cotton or red patches appear, isolate and treat as a fish disease
Emergency care manual
Go to an emergency vet now (life-threatening)
- Jumped out and dried, but the body still moves
- Lying on its side with only the gills moving
- All fish gasping at the surface
- Red, raw skin with spreading ulcers
See a vet the same day
- White spots or white cotton spreading to several fish
- Swollen belly and no food for 2 or more days
- Barbels rotting and the mouth turning white
What to tell the vet & what to bring
Water temperature, pH, last water change, food, tank mates, photos of symptoms. Bag the fish in its own tank water. Call ahead to a fish vet or specialist shop
Checking consciousness, breathing & heartbeat
- Are the gill covers moving? (normal is about 60–100 per minute)
- Does it flee when touched or when a light is shone on it?
- Even a dried fish can recover if the skin is moist and the body bends
Resuscitation steps
- No chest compressions. Move to clean water at the same temperature
- Gently wet a dried fish with tank water, mucus and all, and return it
- Set aeration to maximum and support the fish with its mouth facing the flow
- Lower the water level so intestinal breathing is easier; keep dark and quiet
Stopping bleeding
- Fin and barbel bleeding stops on its own in clean water
- A 0.3–0.5% salt bath protects mucus and prevents infection
- Continued skin bleeding or ulcers: go to a fish vet
Transport
- Bag with tank water and plenty of air, kept in an insulated foam box
- Keep dark and do not shake. In summer, use ice packs to prevent overheating
Learn with the case method
Case method (50 scenario questions)
Multiple-choice scenarios covering illnesses, injuries and accidents that can happen to Loach, with answers, explanations, issues and improvements.
Start the questions
https://exoticpetsaver.com
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