Fish & aquatic animals

Loach

Pond loach (weather loach), striped loach, golden pond loach, etc.

Most important: Seal every gap in the lid. Jumping out is the most common cause of death

Basics

Lifespan
Pond loach 5–10 years, striped loach 3–5 years
Weight
Body length: pond loach 10–20 cm, striped loach 8–12 cm
Temperament
Gentle and timid. Nocturnal; burrows into sand. Good for community tanks
Care difficulty
Easy to moderate (hardy, but vulnerable to jumping out and high water temperature)
Legal status
Not covered by the Act on Welfare and Management of Animals. Collecting kissing loach and similar species is banned under the Act on Conservation of Endangered Species
Key point
Seal every gap in the lid. Jumping out is the most common cause of death

Ecology & traits

Body
Finds food with mouth barbels (pond loach 5 pairs, striped loach 3 pairs). Scales are tiny and covered in mucus; it also breathes through its intestine
Origin & range
Rice paddies, streams and irrigation channels across Japan and East Asia
Wild habitat
Shallow still or slow-moving water with a mud or sand bottom. Common in paddies and wetlands
Activity & sleep
Nocturnal. Burrows in sand by day; after dark, probes the bottom with its barbels to feed
Social behavior & people
Solitary on the bottom rather than schooling. Weakly territorial; can be kept with its own and other species

Characteristic behaviors

Common illnesses: warning signs & prevention

Ich (white spot disease)

SignsSalt-grain-like white spots on body and fins. Rubs body against sand or driftwood. Common after a drop in water temperature

PreventionKeep temperature changes within 2°C per day. Quarantine new fish in a separate container for 1–2 weeks before adding them

Fungal infection (saprolegnia)

SignsWhite cotton-like growth on wounds or around the mouth. Develops after jumping out or from abrasions on coarse gravel

PreventionUse fine sand with no sharp edges as substrate. If injured, isolate early in clean water

Aeromonas infection

SignsRed patches or bleeding on the skin, swollen belly, raised scales. Progresses to hole-like ulcers

PreventionMaintain water quality with a weekly 1/3 water change. Remove leftover food daily and avoid overcrowding

Columnaris

SignsMouth, fins and tail turn white, rot and fray. Progresses rapidly in hot summer water

PreventionKeep water at or below 28°C in summer. Isolate sick fish immediately; use separate nets and tools per tank

Oxygen deficiency / heat stress

SignsIntestinal breathing every few minutes. Gasps at the surface and does not return to the bottom. Sluggish

PreventionAdd aeration and a cooling fan in summer. Check the thermometer daily; never let it exceed 30°C

Indigestion / abdominal bloating

SignsSwollen belly; floats or cannot sink. No feces and refuses food

PreventionFeed sinking food in amounts eaten within a few minutes. Reduce feeding at low temperatures; never use old food

Warning-sign checklist

Check once a day. If even one applies, contact an animal hospital early.

First aid for illness

White spots / body rubbing

Raise the water temperature 1–2°C per day to 26–28°C and do a 1/3 water change. Because scales are tiny, ask a shop or vet before medicating and dose more cautiously than the label

Frequent intestinal breathing

Measure the water temperature first and set aeration to maximum. If near 30°C, lower it with a cooling fan and small, repeated water changes; split up fish if overcrowded

Red patches / ulcers

Isolate in a separate container with fresh water at the same temperature. Monitor in a 0.3–0.5% salt bath; if ulcers spread, consult a vet or shop the same day

Bloating / floating

Stop feeding for 2–3 days and stabilize the temperature. Lower the water level so intestinal breathing is easier; see a vet if no improvement

Common injuries: prevention & first aid

Jumping out and drying

PreventionSeal every gap in the lid and around cords and tubing. Do not startle. Keep the water level at least 5 cm below the rim

First aidCheck whether the body moves; gently wet it with tank water, mucus and all, and return it to the tank. Increase aeration, darken and keep quiet

Skin abrasions

PreventionFine sand only as substrate. Avoid sharp rocks and driftwood; do not chase with a net

First aidIsolate in clean water at the same temperature with a 0.3% salt bath. If white cotton appears, treat as fungus. Deep wounds: see a vet

Barbel damage

PreventionDo not use coarse gravel or sharp-edged substrate. Barbels rot in poor water, so keep up with water changes

First aidThey regenerate on their own in clean water. If rotting, increase water changes and reduce food to prevent bacterial infection

Sucked into filter intake

PreventionFit a sponge over the filter intake. Use a heater with a guard and leave no gaps

First aidSwitch off the power, then free the fish gently. For burns or bleeding, rest in a separate container with strong aeration

Zoonoses (diseases that can spread to people)

Atypical mycobacteriosis

RouteThrough cuts on the hands when touching tank water or sick fish

PreventionKeep hands out of the tank when you have a cut. Wash with soap after work

Aeromonas infection

RouteThrough wounds that touch tank water or sick fish

PreventionWear gloves when handling sick fish. See a doctor if a wound becomes red and swollen

Gnathostomiasis

RouteLarvae enter the body when loach is eaten raw (live "dancing" loach)

PreventionNever eat pet or wild fish raw. Cooked only

Salmonellosis

RouteHand to mouth after touching tank water, substrate or equipment

PreventionDo not wash tank equipment in the kitchen. Children must wash hands after tank work

Husbandry: food, water, toys, nest, bedding

Food

  • Sinking tablets or loach food, 1–2 times a day
  • Feed after lights-out, only as much as is eaten within a few minutes
  • Frozen bloodworms or tubifex as a treat 1–2 times a week

Water

  • Dechlorinated tap water. Near-neutral pH 6.5–7.5
  • Change 1/3 weekly with water at the same temperature. Never do a full water change

Never feed

  • Floating food only (cannot be eaten; it is left over and fouls the water)
  • Human food, bread, rice (fouls water and causes indigestion)
  • Large amounts of food (leftovers breed Aeromonas)

Toys & play

  • Fine sand 3–5 cm deep for burrowing
  • Hides: clay pipes, terracotta tubes, under driftwood
  • Hardy plants such as anacharis (roots are easily uprooted)

Nest, bed & hideout

  • Provide at least one hide per fish
  • A dark, calm spot by day. Burrowing in the sand is its bed

Bedding & litter

  • Fine, rounded sand such as paddy sand or bottom sand
  • Coarse gravel and Oiso gravel injure barbels and skin
  • Siphon feces out of the substrate with a gravel cleaner at each water change

Housing: cage, exercise, temperature & humidity

Cage / housing material

Glass or acrylic tank. A gap-free lid is essential

Size & space

45–60 cm tank for about 5 fish. A water depth of about 20 cm is enough

Layout

  • Maximize floor area and place several hides
  • Use a low-flow sponge or undergravel filter
  • Plug cord and tubing holes with filter wool or covers

Placement notes

  • Out of direct sunlight and the summer afternoon sun
  • On a stable stand with little footstep vibration

Exercise, free-roam & walks

  • No walks needed. Swimming in the tank at night is its exercise
  • Do not handle; move it in a container with its water
  • If too bright by day, it stays hidden

Temperature & humidity

Temperature15–25°C is ideal. Tolerates 5–28°C, but no sudden changes

HumidityHumidity is irrelevant. A lid prevents evaporation and jumping out

Summer & winter

  • Summer: cooling fan and extra aeration to keep below 28°C
  • Winter: no heater needed, but keep indoors to prevent freezing. Reduce food

Grooming & protection from predators

Nail trimming

No nail trimming. Instead, do a weekly water change and substrate cleaning, and squeeze-rinse the filter sponge in tank water

Brushing, skin & coat care

Do not touch the skin. Mucus is a protective layer; even netting causes injury. Scoop with a container, water and all

Other care

Barbels are a health indicator. Short or rotting barbels mean poor water quality. Check lid and cord gaps monthly

Protection from predators

  • Weigh down the lid so cats and birds cannot open it
  • Large fish and crayfish will prey on loaches if kept together
  • Outdoors, net against herons and raccoons

Care precautions (accident prevention)

Foreign-body ingestion

May swallow coarse gravel with food and get blocked. Use fine sand only, and leave no net or wool fibers in the tank

Being stepped on

Loaches that jump out are often stepped on in dark rooms. If you find one on the floor, pick it up and return it to the tank before anyone steps on it. Never give up on a fish just because it fell to the floor

Getting pinched

Gets wedged in filter intakes, gaps between heater and glass, and cracks in driftwood. Fit a sponge over the intake and leave no narrow gaps

Falls

Jumping out is most common at night, when startled, or when water quality is poor. Weigh down the lid, keep the water level 5 cm or more below the rim, and rehydrate a dried fish in water

Escape

Escapes through lid gaps, overflows and drains. Search around the tank first; even a dry fish on the floor should go back into water to check for a response

How to safely release a bite

Never do this

  • Loaches do not bite. Do not grip with bare hands and make it thrash
  • Do not grab by hand even if it is being chased by large fish or crayfish

Safe release procedure

  1. Stop cohabiting with predatory fish immediately. Scoop the loach with a container
  2. If chased by fin-nippers, use a divider or a separate tank
  3. If you must hold it, use wet hands, briefly, over the water surface
  4. If it thrashes and may fall, bring it close to the water and let it slip off

After the release

Torn fins and barbels regenerate in clean water. If white cotton or red patches appear, isolate and treat as a fish disease

Emergency care manual

Go to an emergency vet now (life-threatening)

  • Jumped out and dried, but the body still moves
  • Lying on its side with only the gills moving
  • All fish gasping at the surface
  • Red, raw skin with spreading ulcers

See a vet the same day

  • White spots or white cotton spreading to several fish
  • Swollen belly and no food for 2 or more days
  • Barbels rotting and the mouth turning white

What to tell the vet & what to bring

Water temperature, pH, last water change, food, tank mates, photos of symptoms. Bag the fish in its own tank water. Call ahead to a fish vet or specialist shop

Checking consciousness, breathing & heartbeat

  • Are the gill covers moving? (normal is about 60–100 per minute)
  • Does it flee when touched or when a light is shone on it?
  • Even a dried fish can recover if the skin is moist and the body bends

Resuscitation steps

  1. No chest compressions. Move to clean water at the same temperature
  2. Gently wet a dried fish with tank water, mucus and all, and return it
  3. Set aeration to maximum and support the fish with its mouth facing the flow
  4. Lower the water level so intestinal breathing is easier; keep dark and quiet

Stopping bleeding

  • Fin and barbel bleeding stops on its own in clean water
  • A 0.3–0.5% salt bath protects mucus and prevents infection
  • Continued skin bleeding or ulcers: go to a fish vet

Transport

  • Bag with tank water and plenty of air, kept in an insulated foam box
  • Keep dark and do not shake. In summer, use ice packs to prevent overheating

Learn with the case method

Case method (50 scenario questions)

Multiple-choice scenarios covering illnesses, injuries and accidents that can happen to Loach, with answers, explanations, issues and improvements.

Start the questions
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