Rabbit case method: 50 questions
Read the scenario and choose the first action you should take as the owner. After answering, you will see the explanation, issues and improvements. See the manual
Answers, explanations, issues & improvements (all 50)
For printing and review. Click to open.
Q1The morning hay has not gone downIllness
7 a.m. on a weekday. You check the cage of your 3-year-old Netherland Dwarf and the generous pile of timothy you put in last night is almost untouched. The droppings in the litter box are smaller and fewer than usual, and the rabbit is sitting still in a corner of the cage. It lifts its head when called but will not touch its favorite komatsuna when offered. It finished its pellets at 10 p.m. last night. You have work and cannot get home until evening.
Which is the most appropriate action at this point?
- It seems fine, so go to work and decide about the vet based on how it looks in the evening
- Massage the belly firmly and syringe vegetable juice into its mouth
- Increase pellets to make up the calories and watch whether it eats until tomorrow
- Put hay and water in front of it, keep it warm, call your regular vet, and get seen this morning
AnswerD. Put hay and water in front of it, keep it warm, call your regular vet, and get seen this morning
ExplanationRabbits are prey animals that hide illness, so untouched hay and small droppings are early signs of GI stasis. Stasis can worsen within hours to half a day and become fatal, so place hay and water in front of the rabbit, keep it quietly warm, and see the vet the same day, ideally in the morning. Leaving it until evening would push it past 12 hours since its last meal and into emergency territory. Massage or force-feeding on your own judgment risks intestinal obstruction or aspiration and should not be done without a vet's instructions. More pellets worsen the fiber shortage, and waiting until tomorrow is a fatal delay.
IssuesIn the rush before work it was easy to put off the decision with 'it seems fine.' There was no daily habit of comparing hay consumption and dropping size, and no awareness that stasis can turn critical within half a day.
ImprovementEvery morning, check and record how much hay is left and the number and size of droppings. Agree as a family that any drop means a same-day vet visit, and post your regular vet's and the after-hours emergency hospital's numbers on the fridge. Brush more during shedding season and avoid sudden diet changes.
Q2Midnight, nothing eaten for 12 hoursIllness
Midnight on a Sunday. Your 5-year-old Holland Lop has not touched hay or pellets since the evening and has not passed a single dropping since morning. Its belly is tight and swollen, it grinds its teeth, and it sits hunched forward. It resists being picked up. Your regular vet is closed until 9 tomorrow morning. You found a post online saying 'for stasis, keep them warm and wait.'
Which is the most appropriate action?
- Follow the online advice: keep it warm and wait for your regular vet to open in the morning
- Give a small dose of a human intestinal remedy from the medicine cabinet and watch
- Call the emergency (after-hours) animal hospital, put hay in the carrier, and take it in right now
- Warm the belly while massaging it firmly to push the gas out
AnswerC. Call the emergency (after-hours) animal hospital, put hay in the carrier, and take it in right now
ExplanationNo food or droppings for over 12 hours plus the pain signs of a distended belly and teeth grinding fall into the 'see the vet now' category. In stasis, gas builds up in the gut and the rabbit can die within hours once it progresses to hepatic lipidosis or shock, so go to the emergency hospital even at night. Waiting until morning is the most dangerous choice, and online advice has not seen this particular rabbit. Human medicine is wrong in dose and ingredients and can backfire if there is an obstruction. Firm abdominal massage risks intestinal injury and worsening a blockage; never do it without professional instruction.
IssuesThe after-hours emergency contact had not been looked up in advance, so only the closed regular vet came to mind. The rule 'no food or droppings for 12 hours is an emergency' was unknown, and online information nearly led to a wait-and-see decision.
ImprovementFind at least two after-hours emergency hospitals that treat rabbits and note their phone numbers and routes. Make a habit of recording the time of the last meal and the state of droppings, and act before the 12-hour mark. Keep hay and a towel in the carrier so you can leave immediately.
Q3Chin and forelegs wet with droolIllness
A 4-year-old Mini Rex. Lately it finishes its pellets but increasingly leaves the tougher timothy. When you picked it up this morning, the fur under its chin was damp and matted with drool and the insides of its forelegs were wet too. There is discharge in its left eye. On the scale it is 150 g lighter than a month ago. Its appetite itself seems fine.
Which is the most appropriate action for the owner?
- Suspect malocclusion and see a vet who can treat teeth, the same day or within a few days
- It is eating pellets so there is no problem; wipe the wet fur and watch
- Add more soft vegetables to make eating easier and stop the hay
- Open its mouth at home and file down the front teeth with nail clippers
AnswerA. Suspect malocclusion and see a vet who can treat teeth, the same day or within a few days
ExplanationDrooling, avoiding tough hay, eye discharge, and weight loss are classic signs of malocclusion from overgrown molars or a misaligned bite. Molar spurs cut the tongue and cheeks, the pain makes the rabbit avoid hay, and untreated it progresses to abscesses or stasis, so see the vet the same day or within a few days for dental treatment. Being able to eat pellets only means they need less chewing than hay; it is not proof of health. Stopping hay for vegetables wears the molars even less and makes things worse. Filing teeth at home can damage the roots or fracture the jaw; never do it.
IssuesThe shift from hay to pellets was taken as a 'preference' and not linked to an early sign of dental trouble. Weight was not measured regularly, so the loss was noticed late.
ImprovementMake weekly weigh-ins and checks of the chin, inner forelegs, and molars a habit. Base the diet on unlimited hay and keep pellets to 1–3% of body weight. Have regular checkups once or twice a year with a vet who can examine teeth.
Q4Persistent sneezing and white nasal dischargeIllness
November. Since the heating went on, your 2-year-old male has been sneezing repeatedly. A week later, this morning there is white discharge from his nose, the insides of his forelegs are crusted with dried discharge, and every breath makes a snuffling sound. Appetite and droppings are normal. The cage sits by a window near the front entrance, where it gets cold morning and evening.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Dilute a human nasal spray and drip it into the nose
- He is eating, so leave it; it will clear up on its own by spring
- Point a humidifier's steam directly at the cage to moisten his nose
- Move the cage somewhere with fewer temperature swings and see the vet the same day to start treatment
AnswerD. Move the cage somewhere with fewer temperature swings and see the vet the same day to start treatment
ExplanationSneezing, white nasal discharge, dirty forelegs, and noisy breathing are typical of snuffles (an upper respiratory infection, often Pasteurella). Left untreated it can lead to pneumonia or become chronic and recurrent. See the vet the same day while appetite is still good and keep up treatment such as antibiotics. At the same time, move the cage to a stable location, since temperature swings at entryways and windows and dust are triggers. Human nasal sprays have the wrong ingredients and concentration and are dangerous. Waiting for it to heal on its own can lead to breathing difficulty. Steam aimed directly at the cage wets it and causes chilling and skin problems.
IssuesThe indoor temperature swings from starting the heating and the placement by the entrance and window were overlooked. Even after a week of sneezing, the vet visit was put off because he was still eating.
ImprovementKeep the cage away from direct sun, AC drafts, entryways, and windows, in a spot that stays at 18–24°C. Set a rule to see the vet if sneezing lasts 2–3 days. Shake dust off hay and keep the room ventilated, and separate any rabbit with nasal discharge from other rabbits.
Q5Red urine on the litter padIllness
A 4-year-old unspayed female. Cleaning the litter box this morning, you find reddish urine soaked into the pad. You gave her a little carrot yesterday. She is eating hay, but lately she dislikes having her belly touched and her mammary glands look slightly swollen. Over the past few weeks she also seems to spend more time sitting still in a corner of the cage.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Decide it is carrot pigment, change the litter, and think about it if it turns red again
- Keep and photograph the urine with the pad and see the vet the same day, reporting the diet as well
- Get her to drink more water to dilute the urine and watch for a few days
- Press hard on the lump in her belly and, if she does not react in pain, decide there is no problem
AnswerB. Keep and photograph the urine with the pad and see the vet the same day, reporting the diet as well
ExplanationCarrots and similar foods can redden urine, but in an unspayed female over 3 with bloody urine, swollen mammary glands, and a sore belly, uterine disease such as uterine adenocarcinoma or endometrial hyperplasia is very likely. Keep and photograph the urine with the pad, report the diet and her appetite and energy, and see the vet the same day. Writing it off as pigment lets a tumor progress and raises surgical risk. Diluting the urine with more water does not change the cause. Pressing hard on the lump can cause bleeding and pain; do not do it on your own.
IssuesThere was no awareness that unspayed females very commonly develop uterine disease in later life, and sitting in the corner was taken as a personality quirk. There was a wish to feel reassured by blaming the red urine on vegetable pigment.
ImprovementDiscuss spaying females with the vet while they are young. From age 3, have the abdomen and mammary glands checked at six-monthly checkups. Check urine color daily and set a rule to see the vet the same day with a photo and the sample if it is red.
Q6Head tilted and rolling over and overIllness
9 p.m. Your 6-year-old lop suddenly tilts its head to the right in the cage and rolls sideways every time it tries to stand. Its eyes flick rapidly from side to side. In a panic it slams into the cage wall and knocks over the water bottle. Breathing is fast, but there is no visible injury. The family is in an uproar saying 'it must be a stroke.'
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Pad a small carrier with towels to support the body, keep it dark and quiet, and see the vet the same day
- Hold the head straight with your hands to calm it
- Leave it in the large cage to move freely and watch until morning
- Film it, ask for the cause on social media, and wait for replies
AnswerA. Pad a small carrier with towels to support the body, keep it dark and quiet, and see the vet the same day
ExplanationA head that stays tilted with rolling is torticollis, caused by inner ear infection or Encephalitozoon (a parasite) among others, and the greatest danger is secondary injury to the eyes and body from falling. Pad a small carrier with towels so the body cannot roll, keep it dark and quiet, and see the vet the same day (the emergency hospital at night). Forcing the head straight by hand risks stress and fractures. Left free in a large cage it keeps rolling, leading to injury and exhaustion. Asking social media is not a diagnosis and only delays treatment.
IssuesHead tilt was unknown and confused with a stroke, causing panic. There was no idea of setting up the environment to prevent secondary injury from falls, and hard objects like the water bottle were left in the cage. Nowhere to go at night had been decided.
ImprovementAgree as a family that a tilted head means a same-day vet visit. Keep a small carrier and towels where they can be grabbed quickly in case of rolling. Look up the after-hours emergency hospital in advance and ask about testing for the parasite at checkups.
Q7Hair loss and redness on the hocksIllness
A slightly overweight 5-year-old male weighing 2.8 kg, kept in a cage with a wire floor. Lately he licks his hind feet often and walks awkwardly. Turning him over, you see the fur on both hocks has worn away and the skin is red; on the right there is a scab oozing a little blood. The litter box is cleaned every 2–3 days.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Peel off the scab and apply plenty of human antiseptic
- Keep the wire floor, bandage the feet, and keep him still until it heals
- Switch to soft flooring, keep the litter box clean, and see the vet the same day or within a few days
- Leave it until the fur grows back and watch without changing his weight
AnswerC. Switch to soft flooring, keep the litter box clean, and see the vet the same day or within a few days
ExplanationHair loss, redness, scabs, and bleeding on the hocks are sore hocks (pododermatitis), caused mainly by wire floors, obesity, dirty flooring, and overgrown nails. Untreated, infection can reach the bone and treatment drags on, so see the vet the same day or within a few days. At the same time, switch to a soft mat or wooden slats, clean the litter box and cage floor daily, and keep the feet dry. Peeling the scab and using harsh antiseptic makes it worse. Bandaging on a wire floor does not remove the cause, and the rabbit may chew and swallow the bandage. Leaving the obesity keeps the strain on the feet.
IssuesThe root cause was the housing: a wire floor and cleaning only every 2–3 days, with obesity adding to the strain on the feet. There was no habit of checking the soles regularly, so it went unnoticed until it bled.
ImprovementUse wooden or plastic slats with a soft mat on top and change the litter daily. Cut pellets to 1–3% of body weight and make hay the main food to lose weight. Make monthly nail trims and weekly hock checks a habit.
Q8Cecotropes left on the floorIllness
A 3-year-old female. For the past week, soft droppings shaped like a bunch of grapes have been left on the cage floor every day, and the fur around her rear is dirty and sticky. She gets about twice the recommended amount of pellets and a dried-fruit treat daily. Her weight is going up. Normal droppings come out as usual and she runs around happily during free-roam time.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Treat it as diarrhea and withhold all food, including hay, to fast her
- Soak her rear in warm water to wash it and dry it with a hair dryer
- The droppings are soft, so give a small dose of a human anti-diarrheal
- Treat it as uneaten cecotropes: cut pellets and treats, make hay the main food, and see the vet if it continues
AnswerD. Treat it as uneaten cecotropes: cut pellets and treats, make hay the main food, and see the vet if it continues
ExplanationSoft droppings in a grape-bunch shape are cecotropes, which the rabbit normally eats directly from the anus to reabsorb nutrients. Finding them on the floor signals that excess pellets and treats have made them unnecessary, that obesity stops her reaching them, or that teeth or joints hurt. Here the high-calorie diet and weight gain are the likely cause, so cut pellets to 1–3% of body weight and make hay the main food. If it does not improve, see the vet within a few days. Fasting causes stasis and is forbidden. Bathing causes hypothermia and skin inflammation; wipe dirt with a damp towel. Human anti-diarrheals are dangerous, and this is not diarrhea anyway.
IssuesNot knowing the role of cecotropes risked confusing them with diarrhea. Overfeeding pellets and treats was driving obesity, and the soiled rear was a risk for dermatitis and flystrike.
ImprovementWeigh pellets to 1–3% of body weight and give treats only a few times a week in tiny amounts. Manage weight with unlimited hay and free-roam time. Wipe the rear with a damp towel, and if cecotropes keep appearing on the floor for days, see the vet to check teeth and joints too.
Q9A 2-month-old baby rabbit has diarrheaIllness
A 2-month-old Netherland Dwarf, five days after coming home from the pet shop. It was so cute that since yesterday you have been giving it plenty of komatsuna and apple. This morning watery stool is spread across the cage and its rear is wet and dirty. It is sluggish and its body feels a little cold. The shop said 'it will settle once it gets used to the new environment.'
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Assume it is the change of environment, keep things quiet, and watch for 2–3 days
- Stop vegetables and fruit, give hay only, keep it warm, and take it with a stool sample to the vet right now
- Wash its lower body in warm water so the belly does not get cold
- Increase pellets to build it up and wait for it to recover
AnswerB. Stop vegetables and fruit, give hay only, keep it warm, and take it with a stool sample to the vet right now
ExplanationWatery diarrhea in a baby rabbit is an emergency that can be fatal within hours through dehydration, hypothermia, and a sudden upset of gut bacteria. Stop vegetables, fruit, and pellets, give hay only with free access to water, keep it warm in a towel, and take it with a stool sample to the vet right now. The shop's 'it will settle' is a generalization; on top of the new environment, the sudden vegetables and fruit very likely triggered the diarrhea. Watching for 2–3 days is a fatal delay. Washing with warm water strips more body heat, and more pellets worsen the gut environment.
IssuesSuddenly giving vegetables and fruit to a young rabbit that had just arrived was a feeding mistake. Not knowing that diarrhea in baby rabbits can kill within hours, the shop's words nearly delayed the vet visit.
ImprovementFor the first few weeks, give only the same hay and pellets as the shop, and introduce vegetables in small amounts only after 3 months of age. Have a checkup within a few days of arrival and choose a regular vet. Share as a family that diarrhea in a young rabbit means an immediate vet visit.
Q10Droppings strung together with hair during sheddingIllness
May, shedding season. Your 2-year-old Holland Lop's droppings are strung together with hair like beads and are smaller than usual. Touching its back, loose fur comes away in tufts. You only brush it occasionally. It is eating hay, but a few more pellets than usual are left over. It is drinking water. You are home until evening.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Brush to reduce loose hair, give plenty of hay and water, watch droppings and appetite, and see the vet the same day if it worsens
- Give large amounts of pineapple juice to dissolve the hair
- Diagnose stasis and fast it to rest the gut
- Give a cat hairball remedy to make it vomit the hair
AnswerA. Brush to reduce loose hair, give plenty of hay and water, watch droppings and appetite, and see the vet the same day if it worsens
ExplanationDroppings strung with hair show it is swallowing fur during shedding. Since it is still eating hay and passing droppings, at this stage brush to reduce loose hair, feed plenty of hay, and keep it well hydrated to keep the gut moving. If droppings get smaller or fewer or appetite drops, it is progressing to stasis, so see the vet the same day. The idea that pineapple enzymes dissolve hair has little basis, and the sugar upsets the gut. Rabbits cannot vomit, so cat hairball remedies are unsuitable, and fasting will certainly worsen stasis.
IssuesThe need to brush more during shedding season was not understood, leaving the rabbit exposed to hairball stasis. The small sign of reduced appetite, the leftover pellets, was also overlooked.
ImprovementBrush daily with a rubber brush during shedding season and twice a week otherwise. Keep a pile of hay larger than the rabbit's body available at all times and record dropping size and count daily. If droppings stay small for consecutive days, see the vet the same day.
Q11Fast breathing with the mouth openIllness
An 8-year-old senior female. Since evening she has not moved, her abdomen heaves with every breath, and she breathes with her mouth slightly open. Her nostrils flare wide, and counting the chest movements you get nearly 90 per minute. Room temperature is 22°C. She ate a little hay, but her appetite has been poor for a few days. Your regular vet is 20 minutes away, the emergency hospital 40.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- She looks distressed, so hold and stroke her and wait for her to settle
- Point the air conditioner directly at her to give her cool air
- Put her in the carrier with minimal handling, call ahead to describe the situation, and go to the vet right now
- Wait until morning and take her when your regular vet opens
AnswerC. Put her in the carrier with minimal handling, call ahead to describe the situation, and go to the vet right now
ExplanationRabbits are nose breathers; open-mouth breathing and a rate near 90 per minute (normal is about 30–60) indicate severe respiratory distress, suggesting heart failure, pneumonia, or a chest tumor, and call for an immediate vet visit. To minimize stress, place her gently in a towel-lined carrier, cover it to keep it dark, call ahead, and go straight to a hospital that can take her. Holding and stroking obstructs breathing and the stress can cause sudden collapse. At 22°C heatstroke is unlikely, and AC blowing on her will not help. Waiting until morning carries too high a risk of respiratory arrest.
IssuesThe loss of appetite over several days was put down to age, so the change in breathing was noticed late. Not knowing the normal breathing rate made it impossible to judge severity. Preparation for a sudden decline in a senior rabbit, including where to go, was also inadequate.
ImprovementIn old age, have checkups including chest examination every six months. Make a habit of measuring the resting breathing rate (normal 30–60) and remember that open-mouth breathing means an immediate vet visit. Keep the emergency hospital's number and route, and a carrier, always ready.
Q12Still eating, but bloated and grinding teethIllness
A 3-year-old male. He ate hay normally in the morning, but since early afternoon he has suddenly gone still with his eyes narrowed, grinding his teeth now and then. Touching his belly lightly, it is tight as a drum and you cannot hear any gurgling. He passed a few droppings in the morning and none since. Breathing is somewhat fast. Only about 4 hours have passed since he last ate.
Which is the most appropriate judgment?
- It has not been 12 hours yet, so the threshold is not met; wait until night
- Give a large amount of chilled cabbage to release the gas
- Warm the belly, then thump the back firmly to expel the gas
- Do not wait for the 12-hour guideline; go to the vet right now because of the pain and abdominal distension
AnswerD. Do not wait for the 12-hour guideline; go to the vet right now because of the pain and abdominal distension
Explanation'Not eating for 12 hours' is a guideline for when to see the vet; if pain signs are present there is no need to wait for it. Teeth grinding, narrowed eyes, a drum-tight belly, and absent gut sounds point to a rapidly progressing condition such as acute gastric dilation, gas buildup, or intestinal obstruction, which can lead to circulatory collapse within hours. See the vet immediately. Large amounts of raw vegetables add more gas. Thumping the back risks fractures and organ injury, and warming alone will not relieve an obstruction.
IssuesOnly the number '12 hours' had been memorized, without understanding what serious signs like pain and abdominal distension mean. The rabbit's normal gut sounds and belly softness were unknown, so there was nothing to compare against.
ImprovementWhen the rabbit is well, feel how soft the belly is and listen for the gurgling gut sounds so you know what normal is. Remember that teeth grinding, hunching, and a distended belly mean an immediate vet visit regardless of time. Keep records so you can report the time of the last meal, stool condition, diet, and room temperature.
Q13Struggled while being held and fell to the floorInjury
You were holding your 2-year-old Netherland Dwarf while standing when it suddenly kicked hard with its hind legs, leapt out of your arms, and landed on the hardwood floor. After landing it crawled forward on its front legs, dragging its hind legs. It made no sound, and after a while it stopped moving. It shows no sign of urinating on its own.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Pick it up, stroke its back, and once it calms down test whether it can walk
- Flex and extend the hind legs to find where it hurts
- Without handling it, keep the body flat, move it to a carrier, and go to the vet right now without jostling
- Rest it in the cage overnight and see the vet if it cannot walk in the morning
AnswerC. Without handling it, keep the body flat, move it to a carrier, and go to the vet right now without jostling
ExplanationRabbits have light bones, and the force of a hind-leg kick can easily fracture the spine (lumbar vertebrae). Hind legs that will not move or drag after a fall strongly suggest spinal cord injury, and every movement spreads the damage. Keep the body flat, slide it onto a towel and into a carrier, and go to the vet right now without jostling. Also report whether it has urinated. Picking it up to walk or flexing the legs worsens the injury. Resting overnight loses the window to treat nerve damage, and bladder paralysis leads to uremia.
IssuesHolding it while standing made the fall higher, and it was not held in a way that stops the hind legs from kicking. The fragility of a rabbit's spine and how common falls are were unknown.
ImprovementHold it only briefly while sitting on the floor, always supporting the chest and rump and keeping the hind legs tucked against its body. If it struggles, put it down at once. Reduce lifting for cage cleaning and nail trims, and carry it wrapped in a towel. Remember that hind-leg problems mean an immediate vet visit.
Q14A broken nail that will not stop bleedingInjury
During free-roam time your 5-year-old male caught a front nail on a long-pile rug and there was a snap. The nail is broken partway down and a trail of blood spots runs across the rug. He is fussing over the foot and licking it. The bleeding keeps oozing. His nails have not been trimmed in over six months.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Press with clean gauze for several minutes, then press on styptic powder or flour to stop the bleeding
- Hold the foot under running water for a long time to wash the blood away
- Clip off the remaining nail at the root with nail clippers
- It looks like a lot of blood, so tie a cord tightly around the leg
AnswerA. Press with clean gauze for several minutes, then press on styptic powder or flour to stop the bleeding
ExplanationNail bleeding usually stops if you press firmly with clean gauze for several minutes and then press on styptic powder or flour. Lifting the gauze to check pulls the clot off, so hold still for 3–5 minutes. See the vet if the nail is torn out at the root or bleeding continues afterward. Long soaking under running water stops clotting and chills the rabbit. Cutting the broken nail at the root at home damages the vessel and nerve and bleeds more. Tying off the leg can cut off blood flow and cause tissue death; it is not appropriate.
IssuesNails had not been trimmed in over six months, and the overgrown nails were in an environment with a long-pile rug to snag on. First-aid supplies like styptic powder had not been prepared either.
ImprovementMake monthly nail trims a habit, and ask the vet or a groomer if he struggles. Use short-pile rugs for free-roam areas so nails cannot snag on fabric or carpet fibers. Keep gauze and small-animal styptic powder in the first-aid kit.
Q15Chewed a cord but seems fineInjury
During free-roam time, in the few minutes you looked away, your 1-year-old male chewed the TV extension cord. There was a crack, and when you ran over the cord's insulation was torn and the rabbit was licking his lips. The corner of his mouth is slightly red, but afterward he eats hay normally and hops around playing. It is 3 p.m.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- He is lively and eating, so decide no vet is needed, put the cord away, and leave it at that
- Press ice directly against his mouth to cool it
- Film him and observe for a few days; see the vet if he starts coughing
- Even if he seems fine, pulmonary edema can develop hours after a shock, so see the vet the same day
AnswerD. Even if he seems fine, pulmonary edema can develop hours after a shock, so see the vet the same day
ExplanationElectric shock causes not only mouth burns but also damage to the blood vessels of the lungs, which can lead hours later to pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs causing breathing difficulty). Looking fine right afterward is no reassurance, so always see the vet the same day after a shock to have the breathing and mouth burns examined. Seizures or abnormal breathing mean the emergency hospital at once. Ice pressed directly on the mouth damages tissue and makes him struggle dangerously. Observing for days is too late for pulmonary edema. Just putting the cord away leaves you unable to respond when delayed symptoms appear.
IssuesHe was let out in a room with exposed cords and left unwatched. Not knowing that shock symptoms appear late, or that mouth burns can stop him eating days later, the decision was nearly based on how lively he looked.
ImprovementPut cords in cable covers or lift them off the floor, and limit free-roam time to a penned, cord-free area. Satisfy the urge to chew with chew sticks and straw balls. Agree as a family that even seemingly minor accidents like shocks and falls mean a same-day vet visit.
Q16Bitten by a cage mate, ear bleedingInjury
Two 1-year-old males kept in the same cage. In the night you hear violent thrashing and find one with a torn ear dripping blood and bite marks on his back. The other is agitated and chasing him. The two had always gotten along since they were babies. There is a lot of blood but the rabbit is moving.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Leave the two together in the cage so they can make up, and watch
- Separate them immediately, press gauze on the ear to stop the bleeding, wash the wounds, and see the vet the same day
- Scold the biter and take him out of the cage, disinfect the injured one, and leave it at that
- There is a lot of bleeding, so tie a cord tightly around the ear
AnswerB. Separate them immediately, press gauze on the ear to stop the bleeding, wash the wounds, and see the vet the same day
ExplanationOnce sexually mature, males fight viciously over territory, and getting along as babies means nothing. First separate them into different cages, then press clean gauze on the ear for 3–5 minutes. Ears bleed a lot but usually stop with pressure. Bite wounds readily form abscesses under the skin, so wash them and see the vet the same day. Left together they will fight again, risking fatal injury or a broken spine. Scolding does not change behavior, and disinfecting alone does not prevent abscesses. Tying off the ear cuts off blood flow and kills the tissue.
IssuesThe root mistake was housing mature males together, and neither was neutered. The warning signs of a fight (chasing, mounting, scattered fur) were missed.
ImprovementNever house mature males together. Even when they get along, keep separate cages as the rule and do first meetings through a barrier. Neuter or spay to reduce aggression. Keep a spare cage and gauze on hand, and always see the vet for bite wounds because they tend to abscess.
Q17Startled, leapt up, now dragging the hind legsInjury
During a big cleanup, the moment you ran the vacuum nearby, your 4-year-old female thumped the cage floor violently with her hind feet, leapt up, and hit her body on the cage roof. Since then she has not moved from the corner of the cage; her hind legs are splayed to the side and she drags herself with her front legs only. There is no bleeding. Her eyes are wide and her body trembles finely.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Turn off the vacuum, keep quiet, keep her body flat, move her to a carrier, and go to the vet right now
- Pick her up and keep stroking her to calm her
- If it is a fracture she should not be moved, so leave her in the cage until tomorrow's appointment
- Pull the legs straight and apply a splint
AnswerA. Turn off the vacuum, keep quiet, keep her body flat, move her to a carrier, and go to the vet right now
ExplanationIn intense fear, a rabbit's thumping or leaping can break its own spine with its own muscle power. Hind legs that will not move and drag strongly suggest spinal cord injury and require an immediate vet visit. First stop the source of fear such as the vacuum and cover the cage to calm her, then keep her body flat, move her with the towel into a carrier, and transport without jostling. Picking her up and stroking spreads the damage. Waiting until tomorrow loses the chance for nerve recovery and urinary problems progress. Pulling the legs and splinting is actually harmful in spinal injury.
IssuesIt was not known that rabbits are extremely sensitive to loud noise and can fracture from fear alone. The cage was left near a noise source like the vacuum while working, a problem of environment setup.
ImprovementBefore loud noise such as vacuuming or construction, move the cage to another room or cover it with a cloth. Keep the cage in a quiet spot away from dogs, cats, and noise. In a panic, darken the cage and wait quietly, and remember that inability to move or hind-leg problems mean an immediate vet visit.
Q18Bitten on the hand and it will not let goInjury
While cleaning the cage of your 1-year-old male in breeding season, the moment you put your hand in he bites the back of it and does not let go. The pain makes you want to pull your hand back. The rabbit's body is rigid and he is growling. Your child is watching and says 'hit him to make him let go.'
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Yank your hand free with a sharp pull
- Flick his nose with a finger to startle him into letting go
- Stop moving, do not pull back, stroke his back with your free hand, and once he lets go quietly return him to his house
- Push a finger into the side of his mouth and pry the jaw open
AnswerC. Stop moving, do not pull back, stroke his back with your free hand, and once he lets go quietly return him to his house
ExplanationYanking your hand away when bitten can break the rabbit's front teeth or tear the wound wide open. First stop moving and do not pull back; stroke his back with your free hand to calm him and lower his body to the floor, waiting for him to let go. Once he does, put him in his house and leave him alone for a while. Flicking the nose or hitting increases fear and aggression and destroys trust. Pushing a finger into the side of the mouth gets another finger bitten. Afterward, wash with running water and soap and disinfect; deep wounds, swelling, or fever carry a risk of pasteurellosis, so see a doctor.
IssuesIt was not understood that a male in breeding season becomes aggressive when a hand enters his territory, the cage, and the hand went in unguarded. The family had not agreed on how to handle a bite, so the child's idea was to hit.
ImprovementClean the cage while he is out during free-roam time, and speak to him before putting a hand in. If aggression is strong, discuss neutering with the vet. Share the 'freeze, stroke, wait' rule for bites with the family, and set rules for hand-washing and seeing a doctor after a bite.
Q19Red, raw skin after lying on the heaterInjury
On a cold January night you laid a pet heater across the entire floor of your 7-year-old female's cage, covered it completely with a blanket, and went to bed. Next morning she is lying limp on the heater, and the thinly furred skin on her belly is red and raw. The cage is hot and stuffy inside and the water has not gone down. She feels hot to the touch and is breathing fast.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Apply a thick layer of human ointment to the burn and keep her warm under the blanket
- Turn off the heater, move her somewhere cool, cool the affected skin with a damp towel, and see the vet the same day
- Assume the redness is dry skin and apply moisturizer
- Pour cold water over her whole body to bring her temperature down fast
AnswerB. Turn off the heater, move her somewhere cool, cool the affected skin with a damp towel, and see the vet the same day
ExplanationCovering the whole floor with a heater so she could not get away, then sealing the cage with a blanket, has caused a low-temperature burn and heatstroke at the same time. First turn off the heater, move her to a place at 18–24°C, and cool the affected skin with a damp towel. A hot body and fast breathing mean the vet the same day; if she is very limp, right now. Human ointment gets licked and swallowed and has the wrong ingredients, and continued warming worsens the heatstroke. Mistaking it for dry skin and moisturizing leaves the burn untreated. Cold water over the whole body causes a sudden temperature drop and shock, and bathing itself is forbidden for rabbits.
IssuesThe heater was laid across the whole floor instead of part of it, and the blanket cover created an environment where heat could not escape. It was not considered that an old, slow-moving rabbit cannot get away from a heat source. There was no thermometer in the cage.
ImprovementPlace the heater under only part of the cage, always leaving a spot to move away to. Cover only one side with the blanket, and keep a thermometer-hygrometer in the cage to confirm 18–24°C. Check an older rabbit's skin and breathing morning and evening, and see the vet early for redness on the belly.
Q20One eye shut and wateringInjury
In the evening, after burying his face in the hay rack to eat, your 3-year-old male keeps his left eye shut and will not open it. The fur around the eye is wet with tears and he rubs his face repeatedly with his front paws. When you gently open it, the white of the eye is red and there is a small whitish spot on the cornea. The other eye is normal and he has an appetite.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Put in human eye drops and watch
- Flush the eye forcefully with tap water and probe for debris with a cotton swab
- The tearing will stop on its own, so leave it for a few days and see the vet if it does not open
- Watch that he does not rub, keep the eye untouched, and see a vet who offers eye care the same day
AnswerD. Watch that he does not rub, keep the eye untouched, and see a vet who offers eye care the same day
ExplanationA hay stalk or dust most likely scratched the cornea, and the white spot is the start of an ulcer. Rabbits readily enlarge the injury by rubbing with their paws, so watch that he does not rub and see the vet the same day for corneal staining and eye-drop treatment. Human eye drops can worsen a corneal ulcer depending on the ingredients; do not use them on your own. Forceful flushing or cotton swabs scratch the cornea further. Left for days, the ulcer deepens and can perforate, leading to blindness or removal of the eye.
IssuesThe hay rack's design forced him to push his face deep inside, making it easy for hay to poke the eye. There was no awareness that eye problems progress fast, and the tearing was nearly dismissed.
ImprovementUse a shallow hay rack he can pull from without pushing his face in, or place it above the litter box, and shake out the dust first. Set a rule that discharge, tearing, or a closed eye means a same-day visit, and find a hospital that offers eye care in advance.
Q21Skin torn open on a cage wireInjury
Part of the wire mesh on an old cage had come loose. Your 2-year-old female caught her flank on it as she hopped, tearing the skin about 5 cm and exposing the tissue underneath. Bleeding is light, but bits of hay are stuck in the wound. Startled, she huddles in a corner and keeps trying to lick the wound. It is 4 p.m. on a Sunday.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Let her lick the wound to heal naturally and see the vet on a weekday next week
- Cover the wound with clean gauze and press, and see the vet the same day to check whether it needs stitches
- Pour human antiseptic into the wound and close it with superglue
- Stick an adhesive bandage on the wound and return her to the cage
AnswerB. Cover the wound with clean gauze and press, and see the vet the same day to check whether it needs stitches
ExplanationBecause rabbit skin is thin and stretches easily, a laceration exposing the tissue beneath usually needs stitches, and dirt in the wound readily leads to an abscess. Cover it with clean gauze, press lightly, stop her licking, and see the vet the same day, finding a hospital open on holidays. Licking introduces bacteria, and waiting until next week lets infection spread. Harsh antiseptic and superglue damage tissue and get in the way of proper treatment. An adhesive bandage comes off quickly and may be chewed and swallowed.
IssuesThe obvious danger of a frayed cage wire was left unaddressed. No holiday vet had been looked up, and the wound was nearly dismissed and postponed to the following week.
ImprovementInspect cage wires and door hardware monthly and repair or replace anything frayed or protruding right away. Confirm hospitals that see patients on holidays and at night. Set a rule that wounds exposing underlying tissue and abscess-prone bite wounds mean a same-day visit.
Q22Bleeding from the foot after free-roam timeInjury
At night your 4-year-old male had free-roam time in a room where fragments of a broken glass had not all been picked up. After he returned to the cage, there is a trail of bloody footprints on the floor. There is a cut about 1 cm long near the pad of his right front foot, oozing blood. You cannot tell whether a fragment is still in it. He is licking the foot.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Rinse lightly under running water, press with gauze for 3–5 minutes, and see the vet if a fragment is suspected or bleeding continues
- Soak the bloody foot in lukewarm water for a while to clean it
- Pull the wound open with your fingers to look for the fragment and remove it with tweezers
- Licking heals it, so leave it and consider it fine if the bleeding has stopped by morning
AnswerA. Rinse lightly under running water, press with gauze for 3–5 minutes, and see the vet if a fragment is suspected or bleeding continues
ExplanationFor a small cut, rinse lightly under running water to remove dirt and press firmly with clean gauze for 3–5 minutes to stop the bleeding. Lifting the gauze midway prevents clotting. If a glass fragment may remain, or bleeding continues after 5 minutes of pressure, see the vet the same day. Long soaking stops clotting and chills him. Opening the wound to hunt for the fragment damages tissue and increases bleeding. Leaving it to be licked invites infection, and inflammation of the sole can drag on like sore hocks.
IssuesHe was let out in a room with glass fragments left behind, a failure to check the environment. Rabbits cannot avoid hazards underfoot, so the owner is responsible for making sure the floor is safe.
ImprovementBefore free-roam time, inspect the floor at eye level and remove fragments, rubber bands, cords, and the like. Limit the area with a pen. Keep gauze and styptic powder on hand and make checking the soles after free-roam time a habit.
Q23Hind leg caught in a doorAccident
During free-roam time, a family member closed the room door without noticing, and your 5-year-old female's hind leg was caught; she let out a shrill scream. You opened the door at once. She hops on three legs holding the right hind leg up, and the foot looks swollen and bent at an odd angle. There is no bleeding. Agitated, she has fled into her cage.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Handle the leg to straighten the bend and splint it with chopsticks
- Keep cooling the leg in ice water until the swelling goes down
- She can move on three legs, so see the vet if it is still swollen tomorrow
- Wait in the cage for her to settle, then move her to a carrier and go to the vet right now
AnswerD. Wait in the cage for her to settle, then move her to a carrier and go to the vet right now
ExplanationA foot that is swollen and bent at an odd angle very likely means a fracture or dislocation. Do not chase her; wait for her to settle, then support her body, move her to a carrier, and go to the vet right now without jostling. Straightening or splinting at home can let bone fragments damage nerves and vessels, and her struggling could even break her spine. Prolonged cooling in ice water causes hypothermia. Moving on three legs does not heal a fracture; left untreated it can heal deformed or the tissue can die, leading to amputation.
IssuesThe door could be opened and closed during free-roam time and the family had not been told 'the rabbit is out.' There was no door stopper or other measure to prevent pinching.
ImprovementDuring free-roam time keep doors shut or fixed with a stopper, and tell the family out loud. Check the cage door is latched every time too. Set a rule that a swollen, deformed, or held-up leg means an immediate vet visit, and keep the carrier within easy reach.
Q24Stepped on the rabbit in a dark hallwayAccident
11 p.m. Walking down the hallway with the room lights off, you stepped with full weight on the body of your 2-year-old male, who had come underfoot. He gave a short cry, fled, and is huddled in the corner of his cage. There is no visible injury and his breathing is fast. Thirty minutes later he nibbled some hay, but since then he has not moved and his flanks heave heavily.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- He ate hay, so his organs must be fine; watch until morning
- Give a small broken-off piece of a human painkiller for the pain
- Even with no visible injury there may be internal injury or fractures, so go to the vet right now
- Press firmly all over his body to find where it hurts before deciding on the vet
AnswerC. Even with no visible injury there may be internal injury or fractures, so go to the vet right now
ExplanationA person's full weight on the torso can cause rib fractures, lung injury, internal bleeding of the liver or spleen, or bladder rupture even with no external wound. Eating a little hay is no reassurance, and fast breathing with heaving flanks suggests chest or abdominal injury and pain. Go to the vet right now for X-rays and ultrasound. Waiting until morning risks sudden collapse from internal bleeding. Human painkillers are toxic to the gut and kidneys; do not give them. Pressing firmly over the body worsens fractures and the pain makes him struggle, causing more damage.
IssuesA rabbit known to come underfoot was left loose with the room dark. Severity was judged on surface information: 'no visible injury, he ate.'
ImprovementNever darken the room while the rabbit is out, and always check your feet when walking. At night return him to the cage before turning off the lights. He hides under sofas and beds, so check before sitting. Set a rule that being stepped on or falling means a same-day vet visit even with no visible injury.
Q25Escaped through a gap in the balconyAccident
A summer evening. You left the balcony window open while bringing in the laundry, and your 3-year-old female went out and dropped through a gap in the balcony railing into the first-floor garden. The garden is enclosed by a hedge but has a gap leading to the road. It is already getting dark and crows are perched on the power lines. She does not come when called.
Which is the most appropriate action?
- Run around the garden shouting her name to flush her out
- Put her favorite food and a house carrying your scent in the garden, wait quietly nearby, and search mainly after dark
- Decide to search once it is light and go inside for the night
- Ask the neighbors to help and search in a large group all at once
AnswerB. Put her favorite food and a house carrying your scent in the garden, wait quietly nearby, and search mainly after dark
ExplanationAn escaped rabbit hides in fear, and the more you chase it the farther it runs, so running around after her is counterproductive. Place her favorite food and a house carrying your or the cage's scent nearby and wait quietly. Being crepuscular, she moves from dusk into the night, so search mainly after dark with a flashlight aimed low. Outdoors there are predators such as crows, stray cats, and weasels, and in summer the risks of heatstroke and parasites, so leaving her until morning is highly dangerous. A noisy crowd searching can panic her into running into the road.
IssuesEscape prevention was inadequate: the balcony window was left open and the gaps in the railing had not been checked. The dangers of the summer outdoors (predators, heat, parasites) were underestimated.
ImprovementNever open the balcony or front door while the rabbit is out. Make pens at least 80 cm high and check the cage door is latched. In case she goes missing, keep a photo and share with the family how to catch her with a house and favorite food. After recovery, see the vet to check for heatstroke and parasites.
Q26Jumped off the sofa and will not moveAccident
You were stroking your 4-year-old male on your lap on the sofa when he suddenly leapt from the sofa back to the floor, a drop of about 80 cm. He landed with a thud, and since then he has sat in front of his cage with his front legs braced, not moving. When touched his body is rigid, and he seems to drag his hind legs slightly.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Keep his body flat, move him to a carrier, and go to the vet right now without jostling
- Tempt him with a treat to get him walking and cheer him up
- Hold him and rub his body while waiting for the pain to pass
- Rest him in the cage for a few hours and see the vet if he still has not moved by night
AnswerA. Keep his body flat, move him to a carrier, and go to the vet right now without jostling
ExplanationRabbits have low bone density, and even a landing from sofa height of about 80 cm can fracture the spine or hind legs. If he does not move after landing and drags his hind legs, suspect spinal injury: do not handle him, keep his body flat, move him to a carrier, and go to the vet right now without jostling. Tempting him to walk or holding and rubbing him spreads the damage. Watching for a few hours loses the window to treat nerve injury, and bladder paralysis progresses. Among falls, jumping off sofas and beds is extremely common.
IssuesHolding him on the sofa created the height to fall from. The prey-animal trait of bolting suddenly even when he looks calm was not understood.
ImprovementHold and cuddle him while sitting on the floor and never put him on sofas or beds. Pen off the free-roam area and arrange it so he cannot climb tall furniture. Remember that hind-leg problems after a fall or jump mean an immediate vet visit.
Q27A cat got into the roomAccident
While a visitor had the front door open, the neighbor's cat slipped in and chased your 1-year-old female, who was out for free-roam time. After chasing the cat out, the rabbit will not come out from under the furniture. When you pull her out there is no visible injury, but she is shaking violently, breathing extremely fast, and her heart is pounding hard enough to feel. Back in the cage she stays frozen in a corner.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- There is no injury, so relax and let her continue free-roam time as usual
- Have the whole family hold and stroke her to calm her
- Part her fur all over right now to search carefully for cat scratches
- Cover the cage to keep it dark and quiet, watch her breathing and appetite, and see the vet the same day if she does not eat or anything is abnormal
AnswerD. Cover the cage to keep it dark and quiet, watch her breathing and appetite, and see the vet the same day if she does not eat or anything is abnormal
ExplanationA rabbit chased by a cat can go into shock from extreme stress even without injury, leading to cardiac arrest or stasis afterward. First cover the cage to keep it dark, place it somewhere quiet with no predators, and reduce stimulation. If her breathing settles and she starts eating hay she is recovering, but if the shaking continues for hours, or she does not eat or pass droppings, see the vet the same day. Small puncture wounds from cat teeth hide in the fur and readily abscess, so check her body once she is calm and see the vet if you find any. Continuing free-roam time or group handling piles on stress, and parting her fur all over while she is still shaking should be avoided for now.
IssuesNo one kept track of where the rabbit was while the front door was open, and a cat, a predator, getting in had not been anticipated. The rabbit trait of life-threatening shock or stasis from fear alone was unknown.
ImprovementReturn her to the cage before visitors arrive or the front door is opened. Never keep her in the same room as dogs, cats, or ferrets. Lock the cage. After a stressful event, set a rule to watch appetite and droppings closely for 12 hours and see the vet if they drop.
Q28Fell into leftover bathwaterAccident
During free-roam time your 2-year-old male slipped through the open bathroom door and fell into the tub, which was still full of leftover bathwater. You noticed after a few minutes and pulled him out: he is soaked through, sluggish, making a cough-like sound, and water drips from his mouth. His body is cold and shaking. It is February and the room is 15°C.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Dry him with a hair dryer on maximum heat at close range
- Towel off the water, warm him gradually in a warm room while watching his breathing, and go to the vet right now
- Let him air-dry in the bathroom until he perks up
- Hold him upside down to drain the water from his mouth
AnswerB. Towel off the water, warm him gradually in a warm room while watching his breathing, and go to the vet right now
ExplanationA rabbit soaked in water loses body heat rapidly and falls into hypothermia and shock. First blot the water with a dry towel (do not rub hard), then wrap him in a towel in a room at 18–24°C and warm him gradually. Coughing and water from the mouth indicate aspiration, which can lead to pneumonia or pulmonary edema later, so go to the vet right now. A hair dryer on hot at close range causes burns and panic. Air-drying in the bathroom deepens the hypothermia. Holding him upside down carries a high risk of spinal fracture; never do it to a rabbit.
IssuesHe was let out with the bathroom door open and the danger of a water source had not been considered. It was not known that bathing itself is forbidden for rabbits and that they cannot keep warm once wet.
ImprovementPen off the free-roam area and keep the bathroom, kitchen, and balcony doors closed. Drain the tub or put the lid on. Share with the family the warming procedure for a wet rabbit and that a vet visit is needed after aspiration.
Q29Went out with the cage door left openAccident
Coming home in the evening, you find the cage door you forgot to close this morning open and your 5-year-old female wandering freely around the room. On the floor there is a houseplant, a phone charging cable, and some rubber bands. The cable's insulation has chew marks, and one rubber band is missing. The rabbit seems fine and is eating hay.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- She is lively and eating, so decide there is no problem, close the door, and carry on as usual
- Give her salt water to make her vomit the rubber band
- Check the chew marks, the missing rubber band, and the plant, watch droppings and appetite for a few days, and see the vet the same day if anything is abnormal
- Chase her around the room and force her mouth open to check inside
AnswerC. Check the chew marks, the missing rubber band, and the plant, watch droppings and appetite for a few days, and see the vet the same day if anything is abnormal
ExplanationRabbits cannot vomit, so a swallowed foreign object such as a rubber band can cause intestinal obstruction. Chew marks on a cable also mean possible electric shock, with pulmonary edema appearing later. Even if she looks fine, check what was chewed, what is missing, and whether the plant has been eaten, and watch dropping size and count and appetite closely for several days. If droppings get smaller or stop, appetite drops, or breathing is abnormal, see the vet the same day and explain the situation. If you are worried, it is fine to go in and consult. Inducing vomiting with salt water is impossible in rabbits and dangerous. Chasing her to check her mouth risks stress and fractures.
IssuesA basic check was missed in forgetting to close the cage door, and the room had hazards such as cables, rubber bands, and a houseplant lying around. Understanding that rabbits cannot vomit was also lacking.
ImprovementMake a habit of pointing at and confirming the cage lock before going out. Remove cords, rubber, plastic, and houseplants from around the cage and the free-roam area, and put cords in cable covers. Decide in advance what to watch for and when to see the vet if a foreign object may have been swallowed.
Q30The carrier tipped over in the carAccident
Driving to the vet, you braked hard and the carrier on the seat tumbled to the floor. Your 3-year-old male inside thrashed violently. You stopped the car and opened it: there is a little blood from his nose and hay and droppings are scattered inside the carrier. His eyes are wide and his breathing is fast. The hospital is 15 minutes away.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Secure the carrier with the seat belt, cover it to keep it dark, continue to the hospital, and report the fall
- Take him out on the spot to calm him and have him walk to check for problems
- Stuff tissue into his nose to stop the nosebleed
- Hold him in the passenger seat to calm him and continue to the hospital
AnswerA. Secure the carrier with the seat belt, cover it to keep it dark, continue to the hospital, and report the fall
ExplanationTaking him out to walk during the trip risks escape and another fall, and fractures are easily missed right after thrashing. Secure the carrier with the seat belt, cover it with a towel to reduce stimulation, and continue to the hospital. On arrival, be sure to report the fall, the nosebleed, and the thrashing so fractures and head injury can be checked. Tissue stuffed in the nose causes breathing difficulty because rabbits breathe through the nose. Holding him in your arms invites a fall or crushing at the next hard brake, and his struggling could break his spine.
IssuesThe carrier was simply placed on the seat without being secured, creating the conditions for a fall under hard braking. Awareness that thrashing in transit can cause fractures, and the measure of covering the carrier for transport, were lacking.
ImprovementPlace the carrier on the floor or secure it with the seat belt, with a towel inside to support the body. Keep it covered in transit, with an ice pack in summer or a hand warmer on the outside in winter. Never open the door in the car. Always tell the vet about any fall or strong impact.
Q31Ate a piece of onionPoisoning / Ingestion
While you were cooking dinner, your 2-year-old female, out for free-roam time, ate a piece of onion (about 2 cm square) that had fallen on the floor. She showed nothing unusual at the time and is eating hay. You thought 'a little is fine,' but recall hearing that the onion family is dangerous for dogs and cats. It is 7 p.m.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- It was a small amount, so assume there is no problem and carry on as normal
- Put a finger down her throat to make her vomit
- Give her milk to dilute the toxin
- Record the amount and time, call the animal hospital for instructions, and watch her urine color and energy for several days
AnswerD. Record the amount and time, call the animal hospital for instructions, and watch her urine color and energy for several days
ExplanationOnions and the rest of the onion family are toxic to rabbits too, causing hemolytic anemia, with symptoms appearing days later as red urine, loss of energy, and fast breathing. Even a small amount readily affects a 1–2 kg body, so record the amount and time and call the animal hospital to ask whether a visit is needed. For the next several days watch urine color, appetite, and breathing, and see the vet immediately for red urine or lethargy. Rabbits are anatomically unable to vomit, so trying to induce vomiting is pointless and injures the mouth and throat. Milk causes diarrhea from the lactose and has no diluting effect.
IssuesShe was out during cooking, where she could reach food dropped on the floor. Not knowing that the onion family is harmful to rabbits as well and that symptoms appear late, the small amount was dismissed.
ImprovementReturn her to the cage while cooking or eating. Pen off the kitchen. Post a list of dangerous foods such as the onion family, potato sprouts, avocado, and chocolate on the fridge, and set a procedure to record the amount and time and call the hospital after any accidental ingestion.
Q32Houseplant leaves have been chewedPoisoning / Ingestion
Sunday noon. Bits of leaf are scattered around the pothos pot in the living room, and the mouth of your 1-year-old male, out for free-roam time, is stained green. Thirty minutes later he has foamy drool, keeps opening and closing his mouth, and rubs his face with his front paws. He will not touch his hay.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Flush his mouth forcefully with tap water and wait for him to settle
- Note the plant's name, the amount eaten, and the time, and take a piece of the plant to the vet right now
- The drooling will stop on its own, so watch until night
- Give him sparkling water to neutralize the toxin
AnswerB. Note the plant's name, the amount eaten, and the time, and take a piece of the plant to the vet right now
ExplanationHouseplants such as pothos and dieffenbachia contain calcium oxalate, which causes intense irritation and swelling in the mouth, drooling, and breathing difficulty. Foamy drool and face-rubbing mean poisoning symptoms are already present, so go to the vet right now. Note the plant's name, the amount, and the time, and bring an actual leaf; treatment will be faster. Flushing the mouth forcefully causes panic and aspiration, and swelling in the mouth can narrow the airway. Waiting until night lets the swelling progress to breathing difficulty and to stasis from not eating. Sparkling water has no neutralizing effect, and making him drink carries its own aspiration risk.
IssuesThe environment was at fault: a houseplant was within the free-roam area. Not knowing that many plants are toxic to rabbits, they were thought of like grass outdoors.
ImprovementRemove all houseplants from the free-roam area or isolate them completely out of reach and behind a pen. Look up the names and toxicity of the plants in the house. Satisfy the urge to chew with chew sticks and hay. Set a procedure to take the actual plant to the vet after any ingestion.
Q33Chewed a fabric mat; fibers in the droppingsPoisoning / Ingestion
A fabric mat has been in the cage for a month. Your 3-year-old female has chewed a hole in its edge. This morning her droppings contain thread-like fibers and are about half their usual size. She is eating hay, but a little less, it seems. Her belly feels slightly swollen to the touch.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Fibers are coming out in the droppings, so she is passing them; keep using the mat
- Give her oil to bind up the fibers
- Remove the fabric mat, give plenty of hay and water, watch droppings and appetite closely, and see the vet the same day
- Patch the edge of the mat with tape and keep using it
AnswerC. Remove the fabric mat, give plenty of hay and water, watch droppings and appetite closely, and see the vet the same day
ExplanationFibers from fabric or carpet are not digested; they tangle with hair in the stomach and gut to form a mass, causing stasis or intestinal obstruction. Droppings at half size, less hay eaten, and a swollen belly are already early signs of stasis. First remove the fabric mat, give plenty of hay and water to keep the gut moving, and see the vet the same day for X-rays to check for obstruction. Fibers appearing in the droppings do not rule out more still sitting in the stomach. Giving oil risks aspiration and diarrhea and does not work. Patch it with tape and she will eat the tape next.
IssuesA fabric mat was used for an animal that chews by nature, and it was not removed even after a hole appeared. Awareness of a change in dropping size as an early warning sign was weak.
ImprovementSwitch flooring to materials that are safe to chew: straw mats, wooden slats, or jute mats. Do not use fabric or long-pile rugs in the cage or the free-roam area. Check dropping size and count daily and set a rule that half size or less means a same-day vet visit. Satisfy the urge to chew with chew sticks and straw balls.
Q34Ate the children's chocolatePoisoning / Ingestion
Your 1-year-old male, out for free-roam time, ate half a chocolate bar (about 25 g) that a child had left on the table. An hour later he is more restless than usual, pacing back and forth in the cage, breathing fast, and his ears feel hot. He is drinking water and still eats hay. It is 8 p.m. and your regular vet is closed.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Report the amount and time, call the emergency (after-hours) animal hospital, and go right now
- He is still eating, so wait until your regular vet opens in the morning
- Darken the cage to calm him and reduce his drinking water
- Feed him a large amount of hay to dilute it
AnswerA. Report the amount and time, call the emergency (after-hours) animal hospital, and go right now
ExplanationThe theobromine and caffeine in chocolate cause agitation, rapid heart rate, high body temperature, and seizures even in small amounts in a body as small as a rabbit's. 25 g is a dangerous dose for 1–2 kg, and symptoms are already present: restlessness, fast breathing, and hot ears. Call the emergency hospital and go right now. Since rabbits cannot vomit, treatment after ingestion centers on fluids and supportive care, and the sooner the better. Waiting until morning risks arrhythmia and seizures. Reducing water worsens dehydration and overheating. Feeding hay does not dilute the toxin.
IssuesHe was let out where he could reach a table with children's food on it. Not knowing that chocolate is toxic to rabbits too, the early symptoms were nearly mistaken for high spirits. The emergency hospital's contact details were not known.
ImprovementKeep human food out of the free-roam area and the table outside the pen. Teach children not to give or leave human food near the rabbit. Post a list of dangerous foods and the emergency hospital's number, and after any ingestion record the amount and time and call.
Q35A piece of plastic bag has gone missingPoisoning / Ingestion
You went out leaving a shopping bag on the floor. On your return, your 4-year-old female has chewed a hole in the plastic bag and a palm-sized piece is missing. She is eating hay and passing droppings. But by the next morning the droppings are smaller and fewer, and she sometimes presses her belly against the floor. Breathing is normal.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- She is still eating, so give only high-fiber hay, watch, and wait for it to pass naturally
- Give a human laxative to get the gut moving
- Give a large amount of cabbage to soften the droppings and push it out
- Report the plastic ingestion and the change in droppings, and see the vet the same day for X-rays or other imaging to check for obstruction
AnswerD. Report the plastic ingestion and the change in droppings, and see the vet the same day for X-rays or other imaging to check for obstruction
ExplanationPlastic is not digested, and if it lodges in the gut it causes complete obstruction, which can be fatal within hours to a day. Smaller, fewer droppings the day after ingestion and the pain posture of pressing the belly to the floor strongly suggest a complete or partial obstruction. See the vet the same day for X-rays or ultrasound to check. Waiting on hay alone lets the obstruction progress and misses the window for surgery. Human laxatives are wrong in dose and action and risk bowel rupture if there is an obstruction. Large amounts of raw vegetables add gas and make it worse.
IssuesA plastic bag was left on the floor within reach while out. 'She is eating' was used to underestimate the danger, and the next day's pain sign was nearly missed.
ImprovementAlways put rubber, plastic, electrical cords, and fabric out of the rabbit's reach and check the floor before going out. If a foreign object may have been swallowed, call the hospital the same day and record dropping size and count for 24 hours. Remember that pain postures (pressing the belly down, hunching) mean an immediate vet visit.
Q36Midsummer power outage, room heating upEnvironment / Disaster
2 p.m. in August. Lightning has knocked out the power and the air conditioner has stopped. The thermometer reads 31°C. Your 3-year-old male's ears are bright red and hot, he is stretched flat against the floor, and he is breathing fast with his mouth open. There are frozen water bottles in the freezer and the tap works. There is no word on when power will be restored.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Pour cold water over his whole body to bring his temperature down at once
- Move him to the coolest spot, place a towel-wrapped frozen bottle beside him, wet his ears to cool him, and prepare to go to the vet
- Hold ice directly against his body and restrain him so he cannot move
- Wait until it cools down at night and leave out extra water
AnswerB. Move him to the coolest spot, place a towel-wrapped frozen bottle beside him, wet his ears to cool him, and prepare to go to the vet
ExplanationHot ears, lying stretched flat, and fast open-mouth breathing are danger signs of heatstroke, which is life-threatening above 28°C. Move him to the coolest place possible, such as a north-facing room or low on the floor, put a towel-wrapped frozen bottle next to him, wipe his ears with a damp towel to help him shed heat, and make water available. If he improves little or is limp, go to the vet right now with an ice pack beside him. Cold water over the whole body causes shock and a sudden temperature drop, and bathing itself is forbidden. Ice held directly on the body constricts blood vessels, blocking heat loss, and causes frostbite. Waiting until night is fatal.
IssuesThere was no heat plan for a power outage; everything relied on the air conditioner. Understanding that rabbits are extremely heat-sensitive and get heatstroke above 28°C was inadequate, nearly delaying the response.
ImprovementIn summer always keep frozen water bottles and an aluminum plate ready, and decide in advance on a cool room to move to in an outage. Keep a thermometer-hygrometer in the cage and act above 28°C. Share the early signs of heatstroke and the vet-visit criteria with the family, and be ready to transport in a carrier with ice packs.
Q37Winter night outage, heating stoppedEnvironment / Disaster
Late on a January night, heavy snow has knocked out the power and the heating and pet heater have stopped. The room temperature drops fast and reaches 8°C by 4 a.m. Your 7-year-old senior female is curled up motionless, her ears and feet cold. She responds when called but will not touch her hay. You have disposable hand warmers, blankets, and cardboard.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Put hand warmers directly inside the cage and stick them to her body
- Take her into your bed and sleep with her
- Cover the cage with cardboard and blankets, place towel-wrapped hand warmers on the outside, and check her appetite in the morning to decide on the vet
- Line up candles beside the cage as a makeshift stove
AnswerC. Cover the cage with cardboard and blankets, place towel-wrapped hand warmers on the outside, and check her appetite in the morning to decide on the vet
ExplanationBelow 5°C is the threshold for warming, but even at 8°C an old, inactive rabbit loses body heat easily. Cover the cage with cardboard and blankets to insulate it, and place towel-wrapped hand warmers on the outside so they cannot touch her. Hand warmers stuck to the body get chewed and the contents eaten, or cause low-temperature burns. In your bed there is risk of crushing and falls, and she will chew and swallow the bedding fibers. Candles risk fire and carbon monoxide. If she still will not eat hay or pass droppings in the morning, suspect cold-induced stasis and see the vet the same day.
IssuesNo power-free way of keeping warm had been prepared for a winter outage. Awareness that an old rabbit is cold-sensitive and readily goes from a drop in body temperature into stasis was lacking.
ImprovementIn winter keep disposable hand warmers, blankets, cardboard, and a hot-water bottle on hand and decide a warming procedure that does not depend on power. Raise the cage off the floor to avoid cold drafts. After an outage check appetite and droppings and see the vet if she does not eat. For a senior rabbit, hold 18–24°C with a thermometer-hygrometer.
Q38After a major earthquake, unsure whether to evacuateEnvironment / Disaster
9 p.m. A strong earthquake (lower 6 on the Japanese seismic scale) strikes. The china cabinet has fallen and the cage has tipped onto its side. Your 2-year-old female is frozen in a corner of the cage but seems uninjured. Aftershocks continue and the municipal office has issued an evacuation order. The nearby shelter accepts pets, but you hear there are many dogs. You have the carrier and hay at hand.
Which is the most appropriate judgment?
- Put a towel and hay in the carrier and evacuate with her; at the shelter keep her away from the dogs and covered
- Leave the rabbit at home in her cage and evacuate alone
- Walk to the shelter holding the rabbit against your chest
- Let her out of the cage into the garden to fend for herself
AnswerA. Put a towel and hay in the carrier and evacuate with her; at the shelter keep her away from the dogs and covered
ExplanationIn a disaster, evacuating together with your pet is the rule, and leaving the rabbit behind is dangerous if aftershocks bring the house down. Line the carrier with a towel, add hay and water, cover it to keep it dark, and evacuate together. At the shelter the sounds and smells of predators such as dogs and cats are intensely stressful, so place her away from them, cover her with a cloth, and keep her quiet. Carrying her in your arms invites struggling, falls, fractures, and escape. Released into the garden she will not survive predators and cold. After evacuating, watch appetite and droppings and consult a vet if she does not eat. Check for injuries from the overturned cage once things settle.
IssuesA china cabinet stood where it could fall on the cage, and earthquake anchoring was inadequate. The shelter's pet policy and how to evacuate together had not been checked in advance, leaving the decision to the day itself.
ImprovementAnchor furniture and the cage and keep them away from things that can fall. Confirm shelters that allow pets and pack an emergency bag with the carrier, a week's hay, water, litter, bowls, and a photo. Plan a cloth to cover her and a spot away from dogs and cats at the shelter.
Q39Too humid: the hay has gone moldyEnvironment / Disaster
Rainy season. The room humidity has stayed above 75% for days. The timothy left in the hay rack for three days is damp, spotted blue-green, and smells odd. Your 2-year-old male has been sneezing since this morning and has dandruff on part of his skin. The remaining bag of hay is also sitting on the floor and damp.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Remove only the moldy parts and keep feeding the rest of the hay
- Sun-drying makes it safe, so dry it in the sun before feeding
- Warm the area around the cage with a stove to drive off the moisture
- Discard all the moldy hay and the damp bag, dehumidify to 40–60%, and see the vet within a few days if the sneezing and dandruff continue
AnswerD. Discard all the moldy hay and the damp bag, dehumidify to 40–60%, and see the vet within a few days if the sneezing and dandruff continue
ExplanationHigh humidity causes moldy hay and skin disease, and moldy hay causes digestive and respiratory problems. Visible mold is only a fraction; spores spread through the whole batch, so removing parts is not safe, and sun-drying does not destroy the toxins. Discard all the moldy hay and the damp bag and store new hay in a sealed container. Keep humidity at 40–60% with a dehumidifier or air conditioner, and if sneezing and dandruff continue, ringworm or snuffles are possible, so see the vet within a few days. A stove raises the temperature too much and risks heatstroke in the rainy season.
IssuesHumidity was not measured, and storage was careless, with hay left damp on the floor. Knowledge that high humidity leads to skin disease, respiratory disease, and mold was lacking.
ImprovementKeep a thermometer-hygrometer beside the cage and hold humidity at 40–60% with a dehumidifier or air conditioner. Store hay in a sealed container off the floor and change the hay rack daily. In the rainy season, check daily for sneezing, dandruff, and damp hocks.
Q40A cold morning: 5°C inside the cageEnvironment / Disaster
6 a.m. in December. The thermometer in the cage by the north-facing window reads 5°C. The heating timer switched off during the night. Your 1-year-old male is curled up still, and his ears are cold to the touch. He responds slowly when called and nibbled a little hay. The water in the bottle has not gone down.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Point a hair dryer's warm air directly at him to warm him quickly
- Warm the room, move the cage away from the window, partly cover it with a blanket, change the water, watch appetite and droppings, and see the vet the same day if he does not eat
- Give plenty of pellets and treats to perk him up
- Give warm milk to warm him from the inside
AnswerB. Warm the room, move the cage away from the window, partly cover it with a blanket, change the water, watch appetite and droppings, and see the vet the same day if he does not eat
ExplanationBelow 5°C is the warming threshold, and cold ears and stillness are early signs of hypothermia. Warming too fast causes shock from blood pressure swings, so warm the whole room, move the cage away from the window, partly cover it with a blanket, heat one part with a heater, and bring him back to 18–24°C gradually. He will not drink cold water, so replace it with fresh. Cold slows the gut and readily leads to stasis, so if he does not eat hay or pass droppings, see the vet the same day. A hair dryer aimed directly at him causes burns and panic. Treats and milk upset the digestive tract.
IssuesThe cage was placed by a north-facing window with large temperature swings, and the heating timer failed to prevent the overnight drop. The rabbit's ideal temperature and the danger of cold had not been grasped in numbers.
ImprovementKeep the cage away from windows and entryways, slightly raised off the floor in a spot with stable temperature. In winter set the heating not to switch off, and put a heater under part of the cage with room to move away. Use the min/max function on the thermometer-hygrometer to check overnight temperatures.
Q41Spreading round patches of hair loss and dandruffInfection / Hygiene
A 3-month-old female, three weeks after coming home from the pet shop. Round patches of hair loss have appeared around her nose and at the base of her ears, with the skin covered in white flakes. She does not seem very itchy. Your elementary-school child, who looks after her, has developed ring-shaped red rashes on the arms. You also have an older resident rabbit.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Apply human athlete's-foot cream to the bald patches and watch
- She is not itchy, so leave it and assume it is shedding
- Separate her from the resident rabbit, use gloves and hand-washing for care, see the vet within a few days, and take the child to a dermatologist
- Wash the bald patches with warm water to clean them
AnswerC. Separate her from the resident rabbit, use gloves and hand-washing for care, see the vet within a few days, and take the child to a dermatologist
ExplanationRound hair loss with white flakes and ring-shaped rashes on the person caring for her strongly suggest dermatophytosis (ringworm, a fungal infection). It is zoonotic and spreads by contact with hair and skin, so isolate the young rabbit from the resident, care for her last wearing gloves, and wash your hands afterward. See the vet within a few days for fungal testing and treatment, and take the child to a dermatologist. Wash and disinfect the cage and equipment and clean up shed hair. Human topical medicines are wrong in dose and ingredients and may be licked. Leaving it spreads infection to the resident rabbit and family, and bathing is forbidden.
IssuesThe new rabbit was cared for in the same space as the resident from the start, with no quarantine period. The child handled her bare-handed without thorough hand-washing, and the existence of diseases that pass to people was unknown.
ImprovementIsolate a new rabbit in a separate room for 2–4 weeks and have a checkup within a few days of arrival. Care for healthy animals first and wash hands last. Handle any rabbit with hair loss or dandruff with gloves and do not share bedding or brushes. Teach children to wash their hands after touching animals.
Q42Heavy dandruff on the back and a rash on the ownerInfection / Hygiene
Your 5-year-old male sheds so much dandruff from his back to his hips that it drifts into the air when he moves. He scratches often and his fur is thinning. On the arms and neck of the owner who relaxes with him on the sofa, small red itchy spots have appeared. The same brush is shared with the other resident rabbit.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Suspect mites, see the vet for treatment, stop sharing bedding and brushes and disinfect them, and have the owner see a dermatologist
- Wash him with a human anti-dandruff shampoo and dry him
- Spray a moisturizer on his back to control the dandruff
- The itching is from shedding, so brush harder and watch
AnswerA. Suspect mites, see the vet for treatment, stop sharing bedding and brushes and disinfect them, and have the owner see a dermatologist
ExplanationHeavy dandruff, itching, and hair loss, together with red rashes on a person who had contact, are typical of Cheyletiella (fur mite) infestation. The mites spread by contact and shared bedding and brushes, so see the vet the same day or within a few days for antiparasitic treatment and have the resident rabbit examined at the same time. Wash the cage, bedding, and brushes and treat them with hot water or disinfectant, and stop sharing. The owner's rash needs a dermatologist. Bathing is forbidden for rabbits, and human shampoo damages the skin. Moisturizing spray does not remove mites. Hard brushing injures the skin and scatters the mites.
IssuesThe dandruff and itching were taken for shedding, delaying the vet visit, and a brush shared between rabbits spread the infection. Close contact on the sofa passed it to a person. The possibility of parasites passing to people was unknown.
ImprovementKeep separate brushes and bedding for each rabbit and wash them regularly. See the vet early for a rabbit with heavy dandruff or itching and have housemates tested at the same time. Wash hands after close contact on laps or bedding, and see a dermatologist if a person develops a rash. Make weekly cage cleaning and disinfection a habit.
Q43Put a newly adopted rabbit straight in with the residentInfection / Hygiene
You adopted a 1-year-old female through a rehoming listing and that same day put her in a cage next to your resident 3-year-old female in the same room. Three days later the newcomer is sneezing repeatedly with a runny nose, and they had been sharing a water bowl. The resident is still fine, but you had been stroking her mouth with the same hand after touching the newcomer's fur.
Which is the most appropriate response?
- Leave them side by side and watch to see whether the resident develops the same symptoms
- Deliberately put them together so the resident builds immunity
- Wipe the newcomer's nose and disinfect the cage, then it is fine to keep them together
- Isolate the newcomer in a separate room, care for the resident first with strict hand-washing and separate equipment, and take the newcomer to the vet the same day
AnswerD. Isolate the newcomer in a separate room, care for the resident first with strict hand-washing and separate equipment, and take the newcomer to the vet the same day
ExplanationSneezing and a runny nose suggest snuffles (Pasteurella and others), which spreads to the resident through droplets, contact, a shared water bowl, and the owner's hands. Isolate the newcomer in a separate room and take her to the vet the same day to start treatment. Care for the healthy resident first and the newcomer last, wash hands, and keep equipment completely separate. Left side by side, the resident will be infected and you will have two rabbits with a chronic, recurring disease. The idea of building immunity has no basis and is dangerous, and disinfecting alone does not stop transmission via droplets and hands.
IssuesThe basics of infection control were missing: the new rabbit was put in the same room with no quarantine, the water bowl was shared, and hands were not washed between them. There was no health check before adoption either.
ImprovementIsolate a new rabbit in a separate room for at least 2–4 weeks and have the nose, skin, and stool checked within a few days of arrival. Care for healthy animals first and wash hands last. Provide separate bowls, litter boxes, and brushes for each rabbit. With multiple rabbits, treat one animal's problem as everyone's problem.
Q44Flies on a soiled rearInfection / Hygiene
August. Your 7-year-old senior female lives in a room with a torn window screen. With bad joints she leaves cecotropes uneaten, and the fur around her rear has been caked with droppings for several days. In the evening you notice flies on her rear, and parting the fur you find the skin damp, red, and raw, with small white maggots wriggling in it. She is limp and has no appetite.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Wash her rear thoroughly in warm water, dry it with a hair dryer, and return her to the cage
- Remove what maggots you can see, move her to a cool, clean carrier, and go to the vet right now
- Spray an over-the-counter insecticide on the affected area
- Clean off the droppings and watch until tomorrow
AnswerB. Remove what maggots you can see, move her to a cool, clean carrier, and go to the vet right now
ExplanationFlies lay eggs on soiled skin and the hatched maggots eat into the flesh: this is flystrike (myiasis), an emergency that can kill within hours to a day through toxins and tissue destruction. Remove what maggots you can with tweezers, move her to a cool, clean carrier, and go to the vet right now for full maggot removal, fluids, and antibiotics. Washing in warm water causes hypothermia and shock, and a hair dryer does not remove maggots deep in the skin. Insecticide is absorbed through the skin and causes poisoning. Waiting until tomorrow lets the maggots reach deep tissue and is fatal.
IssuesThe torn screen was left unrepaired, letting flies in during summer. Although the old rabbit was leaving cecotropes and her rear was soiled, it was left for days; the rear was not being checked and wiped.
ImprovementRepair the screen and keep flies and mosquitoes out in summer. Check the rear daily and wipe soiling off with a damp towel. See the vet to find the cause of uneaten cecotropes (obesity, joints, teeth). Clean the litter box and cage floor daily and leave no damp soiling.
Q45Limp and unresponsive in the cageEmergency Care
You wake to find your 6-year-old male lying on his side in a corner of the cage. His ears do not move when you call his name, and he barely responds to touch. You cannot clearly tell whether his chest is moving. He was eating hay last night. His body is slightly warm. A family member bursts into tears saying 'he is already dead.'
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- He is unresponsive, so quietly let him go
- Shout his name and shake his body hard to wake him
- Touch his ears and body to check for a response, check breathing by the chest and the heartbeat with a hand on the chest, and if present keep him warm and go to the vet right now
- Pour water into his mouth to bring him round
AnswerC. Touch his ears and body to check for a response, check breathing by the chest and the heartbeat with a hand on the chest, and if present keep him warm and go to the vet right now
ExplanationFirst call his name and touch the ears and body to check for a response. Then check breathing by the rise and fall of the chest (normal is about 30–60 per minute) and the heartbeat with a hand on the chest (normal is about 130–325). If breathing and heartbeat are present, shock, low blood sugar, or end-stage stasis are possibilities: wrap him in a towel to keep him warm and go to the vet right now. If there is no breathing or heartbeat, start CPR and transport while calling the hospital. Giving up without checking loses a life that could be saved. Shaking hard injures the rabbit's fragile spine. Water poured into an unconscious animal's mouth is aspirated into the lungs.
IssuesThe procedure for checking consciousness, breathing, and heartbeat was unknown, and he was nearly judged dead on looks alone. Last night's appetite was taken as reassurance, and the overnight change went unnoticed.
ImprovementWrite out the response, breathing, and heartbeat check procedure with normal values and post it beside the cage. Check a senior rabbit's condition last thing at night and first thing in the morning. Know the emergency hospital's contact details and make sure every family member can carry out the check procedure.
Q46No breathing and no heartbeatEmergency Care
In the evening your 4-year-old female struggled while being held, fell to the floor, and a few minutes later stopped moving. She does not respond to her name or touch, and her chest is not moving. With a hand on her chest you feel no heartbeat. Her tongue is tinged purple. The emergency hospital is 20 minutes by car and the family is getting the car ready.
Which is the most appropriate treatment?
- Lay her on her side, clear the mouth, squeeze the sternum between your fingers to one-third of chest depth at 100–120 per minute, give 2 breaths into the nose every 30 compressions, and transport
- Lay her on her back and press hard on the chest with both hands and your body weight, as deep as for a human
- Splash cold water on her face to stimulate the heart
- Decide resuscitation is hopeless, do not move her, and only phone the hospital
AnswerA. Lay her on her side, clear the mouth, squeeze the sternum between your fingers to one-third of chest depth at 100–120 per minute, give 2 breaths into the nose every 30 compressions, and transport
ExplanationOnce you confirm no breathing and no heartbeat, start CPR immediately. Lay her on her side, clear any object from the mouth with a finger, squeeze over the sternum between thumb and fingers, and compress at 100–120 per minute to one-third of chest depth. A rabbit's spine and ribs fracture very easily, so never press with human-level force. After every 30 compressions, cover the nose with your mouth and give 2 gentle breaths. Call the hospital to describe the situation and keep up CPR during transport. Cold water has no resuscitating effect and causes hypothermia. A phone call alone offers no hope of recovery from cardiac arrest.
IssuesThe fall itself was caused by holding her while standing and was preventable. The CPR procedure and the compression technique suited to a rabbit's fragile bones had not been learned in advance.
ImprovementHold her only briefly while sitting on the floor, supporting the chest and rump. Write out rabbit CPR (on the side, sternal compression, one-third depth, 30 to 2) on paper, keep it in the first-aid kit, and go over it as a family. Save the emergency hospital's number and assign roles so compressions can continue during transport.
Q47Heavy bleeding from the earEmergency Care
During free-roam time your 5-year-old male hit his ear on the corner of a piece of furniture; blood is running from the ear and pooling on the floor. Every time he shakes his head, blood sprays, and there are red splatters all over the room. He is moving around and fully alert. The owner is panicking at the amount of blood.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Keep washing the ear under running water to rinse the blood away
- Tie a rubber band around the base of the ear to stop the blood
- There is so much bleeding that you should not touch it; take a photo, send it to the hospital, and wait for instructions
- Press firmly on the ear with clean gauze for 3–5 minutes without lifting it, and see the vet if the bleeding does not stop
AnswerD. Press firmly on the ear with clean gauze for 3–5 minutes without lifting it, and see the vet if the bleeding does not stop
ExplanationEars are rich in blood vessels and bleed dramatically, but pressing firmly with clean gauze for 3–5 minutes usually stops it. Lifting the gauze midway pulls off the clot and restarts the bleeding, so time it and keep pressing. Calm the rabbit and wrap him in a towel to limit movement, which makes pressure easier. If it has not stopped after 5 minutes, the wound is large, or he becomes limp, see the vet. Continued rinsing under running water prevents clotting and chills him. A rubber band kills the ear tissue. Sending a photo and waiting lets the bleeding continue and delays treatment.
IssuesPanic at the amount of blood meant the basic step of direct pressure could not be carried out; neither supplies nor knowledge were in place. Hazards like sharp furniture corners remained in the free-roam area, so the environment check was inadequate.
ImprovementKeep gauze, styptic powder, and a towel together in a first-aid kit and remember: pressure for 3–5 minutes without lifting. Keep sharp furniture corners out of the free-roam area or fit corner guards. After the bleeding stops, check the ear wound and see the vet for swelling or pus.
Q48Transporting a suspected fracture in midsummerEmergency Care
A July afternoon, room temperature 28°C. Your 3-year-old female fell while being held and her hind legs no longer move; you need to get her to the hospital. The car is parked in blazing sun and the interior is over 40°C. You have a carrier, towels, ice packs, and frozen water bottles. The hospital is 30 minutes by car.
Which is the most appropriate way to transport her?
- Hold ice packs directly against her body to cool her quickly
- Line the carrier with a towel to support her body flat, put a towel-wrapped ice pack beside her, cover the carrier, and drive in a pre-cooled car
- The carrier is cramped, so carry her on your lap in your arms
- The car is too hot, so postpone transport until it cools in the evening
AnswerB. Line the carrier with a towel to support her body flat, put a towel-wrapped ice pack beside her, cover the carrier, and drive in a pre-cooled car
ExplanationWhen the hind legs do not move, suspect spinal injury: line the carrier with a towel, keep her body flat, and pack towels around her so she cannot move. Summer transport is a battle against heatstroke, so cool the car first, place a towel-wrapped ice pack or frozen bottle beside her, cover the carrier, and go straight there. Ice packs held directly on the body cause frostbite and a sudden temperature drop. On your lap, jolting or struggling spreads the injury and hard braking can throw her off. Spinal injury is a race against time; postponing until evening loses the chance of nerve recovery.
IssuesBesides the fall caused by holding her while standing, there was no plan for summer transport: cooling the car first or how to use ice packs. Awareness that delayed transport leads to lasting damage was weak.
ImprovementIn summer cool the car before transport and keep ice packs and frozen bottles on hand. Prepare a transport kit: a towel-lined carrier and a cover. In winter add a hand warmer on the outside. Set a rule that hind-leg problems or falls mean an immediate vet visit, and share the job of arranging the car among the family.
Q4911 p.m.: unsure whether to go to the vetEmergency Care
11 p.m. Your 3-year-old male has not eaten hay since about 6 p.m. He passed a few small droppings in the evening and none since. His belly is slightly swollen and he grinds his teeth now and then. Breathing is normal and he lifts his head when called. The emergency hospital is 40 minutes by car and the fees are high. Your regular vet opens at 9 tomorrow. The family says 'morning is fine.'
Which is the most appropriate judgment?
- He responds when called, so wait until morning and go to your regular vet when it opens
- Only 5 hours have passed, so wait until 6 a.m. when it reaches 12 hours and then decide
- Loss of appetite, fewer droppings, a swollen belly, and teeth grinding are all present, so call the emergency hospital and go right now
- Give a small dose of a human stomach remedy and watch until morning
AnswerC. Loss of appetite, fewer droppings, a swollen belly, and teeth grinding are all present, so call the emergency hospital and go right now
ExplanationNot eating since evening, fewer droppings, a swollen belly, and teeth grinding are signs that stasis is progressing and causing pain; the longer you wait, the more gas and dehydration build, and by morning it can be too late. '12 hours' is only the outer limit for seeing the vet; if pain or abdominal distension is present, go without waiting. Call the emergency hospital, describe the situation, and head out with hay and a stool sample in the carrier. Responding to his name is not proof the case is mild. A human stomach remedy is inappropriate and masks symptoms, leading to misjudgment.
IssuesFees, distance, and family opinion were clouding the decision. Understanding of how fast stasis progresses, and that pain signs mean an emergency, was lacking.
ImprovementLook up the emergency hospital's contact details and approximate fees in advance and set aside a sum for emergencies. Agree as a family that any one of 'not eating, fewer droppings, swollen belly, teeth grinding' means a vet visit regardless of the hour. Keep a daily record of droppings and food.
Q50What to tell the emergency hospitalEmergency Care
Late at night, your 2-year-old female has not eaten or passed droppings for over 12 hours, so you head to an emergency hospital for the first time. At reception you are asked 'please describe the situation,' but in your panic you do not know what to say. You put nothing in the carrier, you threw away the droppings from the cage, and you did not check the room temperature.
Which is the most appropriate set of information and preparation for the visit?
- Report the time of the last meal, the state of the droppings, the diet, and the room temperature; bring stool or urine; and put hay in the carrier
- Say only 'she is not herself' and leave the rest to the vet
- Give the diagnosis you found online and ask for that treatment
- So as not to hide any symptom, take your time telling everything you can remember
AnswerA. Report the time of the last meal, the state of the droppings, the diet, and the room temperature; bring stool or urine; and put hay in the carrier
ExplanationIn an emergency, accurate information given quickly determines how fast diagnosis and treatment begin. Report the time of the last meal, the size, number, and firmness of the droppings, the diet (type of hay, pellets, vegetables, treats), and the room temperature, and bring stool or urine. Put hay in the carrier so she can eat. 'She is not herself' gives too little to go on, meaning more tests and more time. Pushing a diagnosis found online leads to misdiagnosis; leave treatment choices to the vet. Rather than talking at length, give the key points first and answer what you are asked; treatment starts sooner.
IssuesThe information needed for an emergency visit had not been organized, and the material needed for a diagnosis was lost by throwing away droppings and not checking the room temperature. The basic preparation of putting hay in the carrier was also missing.
ImprovementKeep a note sheet beside the cage for 'time of last meal, state of droppings, diet, room temperature' and fill it in daily. Do not throw away stool or urine before a visit; bring it. Keep hay and a towel in the carrier at all times, and make a health record of weight, chronic conditions, and medications.

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