Common wombat case method: 50 questions
Read the scenario and choose the first action you should take as the owner. After answering, you will see the explanation, issues and improvements. See the manual
Answers, explanations, issues & improvements (all 50)
For printing and review. Click to open.
Q1Collapsed outside the burrow at midday in high summerIllness
2 p.m. in August, 34°C. On rounds, a zoo keeper finds a 7-year-old male wombat lying in the sun outside his burrow at a time he should be asleep. He is breathing fast and shallow with his mouth open, and drool hangs from his mouth. When spoken to he moves his head slightly but does not try to stand. The nearby water point is empty.
Which is the most appropriate first action in this situation?
- Move him into the shade at once, pour room-temperature water over his body while fanning him, and contact a vet within 30 minutes
- Submerge his whole body in a tub of ice water to bring his temperature down fast
- Return him to the burrow and wait until evening for him to recover on his own
- Take photos, post on the zoo's internal board for advice, and wait for instructions
AnswerA. Move him into the shade at once, pour room-temperature water over his body while fanning him, and contact a vet within 30 minutes
ExplanationCollapsing outside the burrow in daytime above 28°C with open-mouthed breathing and drooling is the classic sign of heatstroke, an emergency needing action now. As the manual says, move him to cool shade, pour room-temperature water over him and fan to shed heat, offer water if he can drink, and contact a vet within 30 minutes. Immersion in ice water constricts the peripheral vessels so core heat cannot escape, and risks shock. Returning him to the burrow to wait puts a semi-conscious animal where it cannot be observed, so deterioration is missed. Consulting and documenting should come after cooling and the call; doing them first loses time.
IssuesThe water point was left empty on a 34°C day, so inspection frequency did not match the season. Guidance into the air-conditioned refuge room and the timing of daytime rounds may also not have matched the heat peak.
ImprovementIn summer, set up several water points, change them at least twice a day, and always check levels on rounds. On days forecast above 28°C, restrict daytime activity and keep the air-conditioned refuge and shaded burrows usable. Keep cooling water and towels at the enclosure entrance.
Q2No cube-shaped droppings for a full dayIllness
8 a.m. in November, a 5-year-old female at a rescue facility. The cube-shaped droppings counted during each morning's cleaning have been absent since yesterday morning. Half of last night's pellets remain and the hay has barely gone down. Her abdomen looks slightly more distended than usual, but she walks back to her nest box when called. Last week there was a report of a visitor throwing bread into the enclosure.
What is the most appropriate decision here?
- Stop the hay, give plenty of juicy fruit to get the gut moving, then observe
- Feed only high-fiber grass, ensure water, and have a vet examine her the same day
- Give a small weight-adjusted dose of a human laxative and wait until tomorrow for droppings
- It usually passes naturally, so keep checking during cleaning for another 2 days or so
AnswerB. Feed only high-fiber grass, ensure water, and have a vet examine her the same day
ExplanationIn wombats, fewer or absent droppings are the first sign of gut stasis, and none for 24 hours is considered dangerous. Feeding only high-fiber grass, ensuring water, and seeing a vet the same day is correct. Abdominal distension or lethargy raises the urgency further to an immediate visit. Fruit is high in sugar, disturbs the gut flora further and worsens stasis. A human laxative is unsuitable for a herbivore's gut and giving it with an unknown dose is dangerous. Waiting 2 days is inappropriate, because stasis progressing to distension and lethargy becomes life-threatening. The thrown bread is a likely trigger and must be reported to the vet as a change in diet.
IssuesThe visitor's throwing of high-sugar food was left unaddressed and dropping observation was not stepped up afterward. Even though food intake had dropped since the previous day, nobody linked it to the dropping count to recognize the abnormality.
ImprovementRecord the number, shape and firmness of droppings daily, and check diet and behavior immediately if they fall versus the previous day. Install a second barrier and warning signs around the fence to prevent throwing, and set up a system to monitor droppings and appetite closely for 48 hours on any day a foreign-object report is received.
Q3Dirty mouth and dropping foodIllness
A March night, a 10-year-old male at a zoo. Observed during feeding, he takes hay into his mouth only to let it crumble out, and the area around his mouth is stained green and wet with drool. He does not approach the tough root vegetables and only nibbles a little soft young grass. At the start-of-month weigh-in he was 2 kg lighter than the previous month. The keeper tries to pry his mouth open by hand to look at his teeth.
Which is the most appropriate response for the keeper?
- Do not force the mouth open; provide soft grass and moist food, record the weight, and see a vet within 2 days
- Put in a large amount of tough bark so he can wear his teeth down himself, and observe for a month
- Open his mouth with your fingers to check the teeth and clip the overgrown part with nippers
- His appetite has just dropped, so give more of his favorite fruit to get him eating
AnswerA. Do not force the mouth open; provide soft grass and moist food, record the weight, and see a vet within 2 days
ExplanationDropping food, drooling, a dirty mouth area, weight loss and avoiding tough food are the classic signs of overgrown teeth or malocclusion in an animal whose teeth grow for life. As the manual says, do not force the mouth open; support intake for now with soft grass and moist food, weigh him, and see a vet within 2 days. Already overgrown teeth will not be worn down by tough food, and leaving him unable to eat from pain for a month leads to wasting. A layperson opening the mouth risks a serious bite, and clipping with nippers splits the tooth and damages the root. Fruit is high in sugar, causes obesity and diarrhea, and does nothing for the dental problem.
IssuesThe monthly dental check was not being done using dropped food as the indicator, so the problem was noticed only after weight loss. Daily feeding of tough grass, roots and bark to wear the teeth may have been insufficient.
ImprovementAlways give tough hay, root vegetables and bark daily, and record dropped food and mouth staining monthly. Weigh at least monthly, and if weight falls versus the previous month, suspect a dental problem first and see a vet. Line up in advance a wildlife vet who can perform dental procedures.
Q4Keeps rubbing against the wall, covered in crustsIllness
A February evening, a 3-year-old female who arrived at the rescue facility six months ago. For several days she has been rubbing her body repeatedly against the fence and logs. Up close, the skin on her back and flanks is thick, hard and cracked, with hair loss, and there are gray crusts along the edges of her eyes and ears. Another wombat lives in the neighboring enclosure, and the keeper has been feeding that animal after touching this one bare-handed.
What is the most appropriate response in this situation?
- Wash her whole body with an over-the-counter dog flea shampoo and observe
- Apply a human anti-itch cream to the lesions and observe for a week
- Handle with gloves, photograph the lesions, isolate from other animals, disinfect the bedding, and see a vet within a few days
- It is dry winter skin, so apply moisturizer and wait until spring
AnswerC. Handle with gloves, photograph the lesions, isolate from other animals, disinfect the bedding, and see a vet within a few days
ExplanationThickened, cracked skin, hair loss, crusts on the eyes and ears, and rubbing behavior are the classic picture of sarcoptic mange (scabies mites), the most important disease in wombats. Mange spreads to humans and other animals, so handle with gloves, photograph the lesions, isolate from other animals, disinfect the bedding, and see a vet within a few days. Untreated it progresses to wasting and death, so it cannot be left. Dog shampoo and human creams do not work on the mites and, used on cracked skin, worsen it through irritation. Waiting until spring as dry skin delays diagnosis and spreads infection to the neighboring animal and the keeper.
IssuesThere was no habit of weekly checks for crusts and hair loss, so mange was not suspected even after days of rubbing. Caring for another animal after bare-handed contact created a route for the infection to spread.
ImprovementBuild a weekly skin check into the record sheet, and switch to isolation and glove handling as soon as hair loss, crusts or cracks are found. Keep separate tools per animal and work from healthy animals first. Enforce hand washing and a change of clothes after work, and have a vet carry out regular mite treatment.
Q5Persistent soft stool and pale gumsIllness
A June night, a 4-year-old male at a zoo. About a week ago his cube-shaped droppings started falling apart into soft stool, and his coat has become dull. He has lost 1.5 kg since the start of the month. Tonight, looking at his mouth, the gums appeared pale. Continuous rain has turned the enclosure soil to mud, and droppings have not been removed for 3 days.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Collect a stool sample and bring it to a vet the same day, remove droppings from the enclosure and dry out the soil
- A probiotic works for soft stool, so give a human probiotic and wait a week
- Give beef and eggs, said to be good for anemia, to build him up
- It will clear up once the rain stops, so observe until the rainy season ends
AnswerA. Collect a stool sample and bring it to a vet the same day, remove droppings from the enclosure and dry out the soil
ExplanationSoft stool or diarrhea, weight loss, a dull coat and pale gums indicating anemia are classic symptoms of intestinal parasites. A fecal exam to confirm eggs and appropriate deworming are needed, and once anemia is present a same-day visit is advisable. At the same time, remove droppings from the enclosure promptly and dry the muddy soil to prevent reinfection. Human probiotics have no effect on parasites and waste time while the anemia advances. Wombats are herbivores; meat and eggs cannot be digested and cause gut stasis. Waiting for the rainy season to end is inappropriate because the dropping-contaminated wet soil keeps spreading infection.
IssuesDropping removal was neglected for 3 days because of rain, and the wet soil became a breeding ground for parasites. There were no records of the fecal exams that should be done several times a year, so parasites were not suspected even after a week of soft stool.
ImprovementRemove droppings daily regardless of weather, and in the rainy season spread sand or wood chips at the latrine spot to improve drainage. Put 3–4 routine fecal exams a year into the annual plan, and send a sample once soft stool lasts 2 days. Compare weight and coat records monthly to catch changes early.
Q6Stopped digging; neck and rump have grown fatIllness
An October night, a 12-year-old female at a zoo. A visitor favorite, she has been given generous amounts of sweet potato, apple and pellets every night by her keeper. Recently fat has built up on the back of her neck and rump, she often sits in front of her nest box at night, and she no longer touches the earth mound she used to dig every night. Her eating has become erratic, and tonight she did not touch the hay.
What is the most appropriate decision here?
- She is elderly, so give even more of her favorite fruit to keep her strength up
- Not digging is just old age, so remove the earth mound and make a flat exercise yard
- She lacks exercise, so put her on a leash and walk her around the zoo daily
- Cut back fruit and pellets, return to a hay-based diet, report the reduced digging and ask the vet about blood tests
AnswerD. Cut back fruit and pellets, return to a hay-based diet, report the reduced digging and ask the vet about blood tests
ExplanationFat on the neck and rump, sluggishness, reduced digging and erratic appetite are classic signs of obesity and fatty liver, and refusing hay also suggests worsening liver function. Cut back fruit and pellets, return to a hay-based diet, report the reduced digging to the vet as an indicator of ill health, and ask about blood tests within a few days. More fruit worsens fatty liver. The earth mound is the most important enrichment for a wombat, and removing it eliminates her chance to exercise entirely. Leash walks are unsuitable for this animal; if startled she charges at 40 km/h, leading to injury or escape.
IssuesVisitor appeal was prioritized and large amounts of high-sugar fruit and pellets were given nightly, breaching feeding standards. The keeper did not recognize reduced digging as a sign of ill health and dismissed it as aging.
ImprovementDocument feeding amounts per animal; limit fruit and root vegetables to a few times a week for tooth wear and pellets to a very small amount once nightly. Record digging behavior nightly and report sustained decreases to the vet as ill health. Weigh monthly and manage against a target weight.
Q7Eye discharge and sneezing for a weekIllness
A December morning, an 8-year-old male at a rescue facility. For a week he has had eye discharge, sneezes repeatedly during cleaning, and the area around his nose is wet. He is still eating, but the hay in his nest box smells moldy and parts of it are damp and matted. The thermo-hygrometer inside the box reads 85% humidity. The keeper thinks it is a cold that warmth will cure, and is about to turn on a heater and seal the nest box.
What is the most appropriate response in this situation?
- Seal the nest box, turn up the heat, keep the humidity and wait a few days
- Mix human cold medicine into his food for a few days
- Replace all the damp hay, ventilate, bring humidity back to 50–70%, and see a vet within a few days if symptoms persist
- Eye discharge can just be wiped away, so leave it and wait for the sneezing to stop
AnswerC. Replace all the damp hay, ventilate, bring humidity back to 50–70%, and see a vet within a few days if symptoms persist
ExplanationPersistent eye discharge, runny nose and sneezing are abnormalities listed on the manual's sign checklist, and moldy bedding at 85% humidity is very likely the source of irritation and infection. Replace all the damp hay, ventilate, bring humidity back to the proper 50–70% range, and have a vet examine him within a few days if symptoms continue. Sealing the box and turning up the heat increases condensation and humidity further, encouraging mold and bacteria. Human cold medicine has no established safety in a herbivorous marsupial and some ingredients cause poisoning. Leaving it risks missing a respiratory infection progressing to pneumonia.
IssuesDampness and mold odor in the nest box hay went unnoticed, and the weekly full replacement was not kept up. There was no habit of reading the thermo-hygrometer, so the environmental factor of winter condensation and excess humidity was overlooked.
ImprovementFully replace nest box hay weekly, with extra dampness checks on rainy or snowy days. Record nest temperature and humidity daily; above 70%, adjust with ventilation or extra dry bedding. Add eye discharge, runny nose and sneezing to the observation record, and see a vet if they last over 3 days.
Q8Bloated, motionless and breathing hardIllness
1 a.m. in September. On the zoo's night patrol, a 6-year-old female is found crouched at the burrow entrance with a rounded, distended abdomen. It feels hard to the touch, and she curls up and will not move. Her breathing is fast and shallow. The log shows zero droppings since yesterday morning, with a handover note from the keeper saying they would probably come tomorrow. The zoo vet has gone home, and it is unclear whether the outside emergency (after-hours) animal hospital handles wildlife.
What is the most appropriate action to take at this late hour?
- Massage the abdomen firmly to release gas and wait until morning
- Phone the zoo vet right now and prepare for transport while following instructions
- Give vegetable juice to get the gut moving and report at the start of the morning shift
- Give a human painkiller to ease the pain and return her to the burrow
AnswerB. Phone the zoo vet right now and prepare for transport while following instructions
ExplanationNo droppings for over 24 hours with a distended abdomen is classified in the manual as 'call now', and gut stasis has most likely progressed to obstruction or bloat. Even late at night, contact the zoo vet immediately and, following instructions, prepare transport in a large-dog crate or wooden box. Firmly massaging a hard, distended abdomen can rupture the bowel or trigger shock from severe pain. Vegetable juice is high in sugar and worsens stasis, and waiting until morning is a fatal waste of time. Human painkillers have no known safe dose in marsupials, risk gastrointestinal bleeding and kidney damage, and mask pain, making severity harder to judge.
IssuesDespite zero droppings since the previous morning, the handover was optimistic, and the 24-hour rule was not shared on the floor. There was no system for reaching a vet at night, and information on outside hospitals that handle wildlife had not been organized.
ImprovementState the rule that no droppings for 24 hours means an emergency call on the handover sheet so night patrol staff can decide too. Post the vet's after-hours contact and a list of outside hospitals that handle wildlife at the enclosure and the office. Keep the transport crate and heating/cooling supplies always ready to use.
Q9Staggering and drooling by day in early springIllness
11 a.m. in May, clear and 29°C. A 2-year-old male at a rescue facility has come out of his burrow in daytime, walking unsteadily and drooling from his mouth. Until yesterday he was lively and eating well. The keeper decides it cannot be heatstroke since it is not yet summer, and lets visitors continue photographing him at the fence. The thermometer inside the burrow reads 26°C.
What is the most appropriate response?
- It is before summer so not heatstroke; suspect a dental problem and book a vet visit for tomorrow
- Suspect heatstroke; move him at once to a cool shaded spot, pour room-temperature water over him, fan him, and contact a vet
- It is stress from being startled by visitors, so stop the photography and leave him alone
- Staggering is a warning sign of an epileptic seizure, so pin him down so he cannot move
AnswerB. Suspect heatstroke; move him at once to a cool shaded spot, pour room-temperature water over him, fan him, and contact a vet
ExplanationAbove 28°C there is a heatstroke risk regardless of season, and leaving the burrow by day while staggering and drooling is the classic sign. The burrow interior at 26°C also shows the refuge is not working. Move him at once to cool shade, pour room-temperature water over him and fan him, offer water if he can drink, and contact a vet within 30 minutes. Dental problems also cause drooling, but with staggering and abnormal daytime behavior heatstroke must be ruled out first, and tomorrow is too late. Dismissing it as stress misses early heatstroke. Pinning him raises body temperature further and causes injury through struggling.
IssuesThe assumption that it was not summer led to ignoring the measured temperature, and the 28°C activity-restriction threshold was not applied. Though the burrow was at 26°C, above the upper limit, visitor photography was prioritized over checking the cooled room and shade.
ImprovementJudge by measured temperature, not season; on days above 28°C, restrict daytime activity and secure the cooled room and water. If burrow temperature exceeds 22°C, review insulation and ventilation. Prepare cooling water and towels from early spring, and write down a procedure that puts animal safety ahead of visitor service.
Q10Dragging a leg and not coming to feedIllness
A January night, a 15-year-old female at a zoo. For the past 2 nights she has walked dragging her left hind leg and arrived at the feeding spot later than usual. There are no drops in the enclosure she could have fallen from, and no other animals. When approached she resists and retreats to her nest box. The keeper assumes it is joint decline from old age and decides to observe without making a record.
What is the most appropriate decision in this situation?
- Accept it as natural decline due to age, just keep a record and continue observing
- An abnormal gait warrants a same-day vet visit, so film it, contact the vet and have her examined
- Apply a human medicated pain patch and observe for a week
- Feel the leg yourself to check for a fracture, and leave it if there is no swelling
AnswerB. An abnormal gait warrants a same-day vet visit, so film it, contact the vet and have her examined
ExplanationDragging a leg or walking oddly is classified in the manual's emergency triage as a same-day vet visit. Causes range widely from trauma, arthritis and claw or toe problems to spinal issues, and cannot be judged by appearance. Filming the gait, contacting the vet and having her examined is correct. Dismissing it as age-related decline and merely recording it misses treatable disease and prolongs pain. A human medicated patch risks poisoning through skin absorption, and she may peel it off and swallow it. Handling the leg forcibly risks a bite, and a layperson cannot determine whether there is a fracture.
IssuesThe preconception of old age meant the gait abnormality was not treated as a sign of illness, and no record was kept. Staff had not absorbed that an abnormal gait is a criterion for a same-day visit.
ImprovementPost each sign-checklist item and its urgency at the enclosure, and set an abnormal gait as a same-day visit. Strengthen monthly weight, gait and appetite records for elderly animals, and film any change to share with the vet. Leave palpation to the vet; keepers should focus on observation.
Q11Eating, yet weight keeps droppingIllness
At the April monthly weigh-in, a 9-year-old male at a rescue facility has lost weight for 3 consecutive months, 4 kg in total. The keeper's records show he finishes his hay and pellets every night. However, his droppings are smaller and fewer than before, and there is slight staining around his mouth. Skin and gait are normal. The facility's vet only visits monthly, and the next visit is 3 weeks away.
What is the most appropriate decision in this situation?
- He is finishing his food so there is no problem; wait until the next visit
- Double the pellets to restore his weight and report at the next visit
- Contact the vet now with the weight records and dropping photos, and request an extra examination within a few days
- He is over-exercising, so shrink the enclosure to reduce digging
AnswerC. Contact the vet now with the weight records and dropping photos, and request an extra examination within a few days
ExplanationThree consecutive months of weight loss suggests that, despite appearing to finish his food, dropped food, dental problems, parasites or malabsorption may be hidden. Smaller, fewer droppings and a stained mouth point to malocclusion or reduced gut function. The manual lists reduced intake and weight loss as abnormal signs requiring a vet visit within a few days. Contact the vet with the weight records, dropping photos and diet details, and request an extra examination rather than waiting 3 weeks. Waiting on the basis of finished food leaves the root cause untreated. Increasing pellets invites obesity and gut stasis and masks the cause. Shrinking the enclosure removes the most important enrichment and worsens his condition further.
IssuesEven after 3 months of weight loss, it was not linked with the dropping changes and mouth staining to recognize an abnormality. The vet's visit interval was long, and the facility had no criteria for requesting an extra examination.
ImprovementSet a rule to request an extra examination when monthly weight falls 5% or more from the previous month. Record not just finished food but the amount dropped and the size and number of droppings daily, and assess them alongside weight. Document the means of contacting the vet and the process for requesting extra examinations.
Q12Seizure, collapse and unconsciousnessIllness
10 p.m. in July, a 13-year-old male at a zoo. When the keeper enters the enclosure on the final round, the animal is lying on his side, limbs rigid, in a seizure. The seizure stops after several tens of seconds, but he does not respond to his name, and drool and foam come from his mouth. There is no vomit nearby and no visible injury. The keeper is alone, and the zoo vet has gone home.
Which is the most appropriate first action in this situation?
- Put a hand in his mouth and pull out the tongue to prevent choking
- Move hazards away, check breathing and pulse, and phone the vet immediately for instructions
- Splash water on him to bring him round, then stand him up and make him walk
- There is human anti-seizure medication at home, so go and fetch it and give it to him
AnswerB. Move hazards away, check breathing and pulse, and phone the vet immediately for instructions
ExplanationSeizures and loss of consciousness are classified in the manual as 'call now', the most severe category, with possible causes including heatstroke, poisoning, metabolic disorders and brain disease. First, keeping your distance to avoid being bitten, move hazards away, check breathing by chest movement and the pulse at the femoral artery on the inner hind leg, and phone the vet immediately for instructions. Putting a hand in the mouth during or just after a seizure causes serious injury from the powerful bite. Splashing water and standing him up is pointless for an unconscious animal and causes falls or aspiration. Human anti-seizure drugs have unknown safety in marsupials, and giving anything orally to an unconscious animal causes aspiration and choking.
IssuesThe final night round was a one-person operation, and there was no procedure for calling backup or contacting the vet in an emergency. Records of the elderly animal's chronic conditions and history were sparse, leaving too little information to estimate the cause of the seizure.
ImprovementSet up a contact network so a second person can be called at night, and post the vet's mobile number at the enclosure. Train all keepers hands-on in checking breathing and pulse rates. Identify chronic conditions in elderly animals through regular blood tests, and record and share any history such as seizures in the individual's chart.
Q13Claw caught in wire mesh, bleedingInjury
A September night, a 4-year-old female at a rescue facility. A front claw caught in the wire mesh laid on the floor of a temporary exercise yard, and when she struggled and pulled free, the claw split at the base and bled. She walks on three legs, leaving a trail of blood spots on the ground. When the keeper approaches she bluffs and tries to dig, and soil is getting into the wound.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Press with clean gauze to stop the bleeding, guide her into the nest box to stop her digging, and see a vet the same day
- Animals heal by licking, so leave it and show the vet at next week's visit
- Pull the split claw out from the base with pliers and pour antiseptic on it
- Let her dig to distract her until the bleeding stops
AnswerA. Press with clean gauze to stop the bleeding, guide her into the nest box to stop her digging, and see a vet the same day
ExplanationWhen a claw splits at the base and bleeds, press with clean gauze for at least 5 minutes, and if needed bandage while maintaining pressure. Wombats have a strong digging instinct and soil in the wound readily causes infection, so see a vet the same day for treatment. To stop the digging, guide her into the nest box. Leaving it until next week risks infection from soil and droppings reaching the bone. Forcibly pulling the split claw increases bleeding and risks a bite from the severe pain; the procedure should be done by a vet under sedation. Letting her keep digging means soil keeps entering the wound and bleeding cannot be stopped.
IssuesA wire mesh floor was used in the temporary yard and the snagging structure was left as it was. That hard floors and coarse mesh cause claw injuries in wombats was not considered at the design stage.
ImprovementUse an earth floor as standard; if mesh is used, choose a fine gauge that claws cannot enter and always cover it with soil or sand. Even for temporary facilities, check for claw and toe snagging before installation. Keep gauze and bandages at the enclosure and go over the pressure-bleeding-control procedure with all keepers.
Q14Burrow collapsed and buried him aliveInjury
The morning after heavy rain in June, the roof of a burrow dug by a 6-year-old male is found collapsed in the zoo enclosure. The animal is not visible, but the fallen soil appears to shift slightly in time with breathing. The keeper has a shovel but hesitates, worried that digging might injure the animal.
What is the first action to take in this situation?
- Wait for the vet to arrive, then dig him out safely
- Call in heavy machinery to remove the soil in one go
- Dig him out quickly from the head end by hand and shovel, check breathing, and go to a vet immediately if he coughs or cannot walk
- Pour in water to soften the soil and wait for him to come out on his own
AnswerC. Dig him out quickly from the head end by hand and shovel, check breathing, and go to a vet immediately if he coughs or cannot walk
ExplanationWhen buried alive in a burrow collapse, suffocation and chest compression make minutes the difference between life and death. As the manual says, dig him out quickly and check breathing. Dig from the head end to secure the airway first, and clear soil by hand rather than shovel near the body. If after extraction he cannot walk, coughs or breathes fast, suspect lung injury or fractures and go to a vet immediately. Waiting for the vet is too late for suffocation. Heavy machinery has a high risk of crushing him, and pouring in water turns the soil to mud that blocks the airway and drowns him.
IssuesNo inspection was carried out anticipating the heightened collapse risk after heavy rain. Soil depth, compaction and post positions were insufficiently checked at design, and there was no structure to support a roof loosened by rain.
ImprovementAfter heavy rain or earthquakes, always inspect burrow entrances and surface cracks. Verify soil depth and post foundations at the design stage, and add a collapse-resistant artificial nest box as a rainy-season refuge. Keep a shovel and gloves at the enclosure entrance and train the collapse procedure.
Q15Startled by fireworks, hit the fence, nosebleedInjury
9 p.m. in August, a fireworks display begins near the zoo. A 5-year-old female is startled by the loud bangs, runs at around 40 km/h and crashes headfirst into the metal fence. She falls and gets up at once, but her nose is bleeding and her gait is unsteady. Her eyes are open, but her response to her name is dull.
What is the most appropriate response?
- She got up, so judge her fine and observe until the next morning
- Check and record consciousness, nosebleed and gait, and since she is staggering, have a vet examine her the same day
- Plug her nose with tissue to stop the bleeding and make her run to confirm she is well
- Pour ice water on her head to cool it and push her into the burrow to rest
AnswerB. Check and record consciousness, nosebleed and gait, and since she is staggering, have a vet examine her the same day
ExplanationAfter a startled charge into a fence and a head strike, the basics are to check consciousness, nosebleed and gait; with a nosebleed or staggering, suspect head or neck injury and see a vet the same day. The dull response suggests possible concussion or intracranial bleeding, which can worsen over time. Waiting until morning on the basis that she stood up means a sudden overnight deterioration goes unnoticed. Plugging the nose with tissue blocks the airway, and making her run worsens bleeding and brain injury. Ice water is meaningless for head trauma, and pushing her in causes struggling and a second collision.
IssuesThe nearby fireworks schedule was unknown, so there was no preparation for the loud noise. The metal fence had no padding, so it could not absorb the impact of a startled charge.
ImprovementCheck in advance for scheduled loud events such as fireworks or construction, and guide the animal into a dark nest box or indoors that day. Fit padding to metal fences and doors, and enforce a rule against sudden loud noises in the enclosure. Put post-head-strike observation items (consciousness, nosebleed, gait, pupils) on the record sheet.
Q16Bitten by a cage-mate, flank torn openInjury
During the March breeding season, a violent fight broke out overnight in a rescue facility enclosure where two animals were cohoused. In the morning the young male has a torn bite wound about 2 cm deep on his flank, swollen around it with fur matted with blood. He can walk but keeps twisting to attend to the wound. The keeper approaches to disinfect it while leaving both animals together.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Pour plenty of hydrogen peroxide on the wound until it foams, and keep the two together
- Rinse the wound under running water, press to stop bleeding, separate the two, and get antimicrobial treatment at a vet the same day
- It will heal naturally, so increase food to prevent fighting and observe
- Close the wound with superglue in place of stitches and wrap it in a bandage
AnswerB. Rinse the wound under running water, press to stop bleeding, separate the two, and get antimicrobial treatment at a vet the same day
ExplanationWombats are essentially solitary, and cohousing in the breeding season causes bite wounds. Bites between wombats are deep and, since they live in dirty soil, abscess easily. Rinse the wound under running water, press with clean gauze to stop bleeding, separate the two first to prevent further fighting, and see a vet the same day for antimicrobial treatment. Hydrogen peroxide damages tissue and slows healing, and continued cohousing leads to more bites. Deep bites rarely heal on their own, and more food does not stop territorial fighting. Sealing the wound with superglue traps bacteria inside and worsens the abscess.
IssuesA solitary species was cohoused during the breeding season, with too few burrows and too little space to avoid fighting. There was no means of detecting fights at night, delaying discovery until morning. Wound treatment was prioritized over the safety step of separation.
ImprovementAvoid cohousing as a rule, and if it is done, always separate during the breeding season. When cohousing, provide more burrows than animals and ample space, and monitor fights with night cameras. Keep a spare enclosure free for separation, and post a procedure for bites: separate, rinse, press, vet.
Q17Head caught in a door, screamingInjury
A November evening. As a zoo keeper slides the heavy nest box door shut, an 8-year-old female inside has her head poking out and it is pinched between the door and the post. She screams and struggles, and the door is jammed solid. The keeper tries to pull her out by the body from behind, but she struggles harder and kicks the door.
What is the most appropriate response in this situation?
- Pull her body harder and yank her free in one go
- Push hard on the door to open it, and if it will not open, hit it with a hammer
- Stop pulling, lift the door off its rail to free her, then check her head and gait
- Leave her until she tires and quiets down, then pull her out
AnswerC. Stop pulling, lift the door off its rail to free her, then check her head and gait
ExplanationWhen a head or leg is caught in a door or fence gap, the manual says not to pull but to remove the door. Pulling compresses the cervical spine and head and worsens the injury, and the struggling causes secondary injuries. First stop pulling, lift the door off its rail to free her, then check consciousness, nosebleed and gait, and see a vet the same day if anything is abnormal. Pushing or hammering the door transmits vibration and pressure to the head and makes her panic further. Leaving her until she quiets is dangerous because the compression keeps impairing breathing and blood flow.
IssuesThe basic step of confirming the animal's position before closing the door was not followed. The door was heavy and hard to remove in an emergency, and staff had not been told how to free a trapped animal.
ImprovementAlways visually confirm the animal's position before closing a door, making a call-out and check a habit. Design doors so they can be lifted off the rail without tools in an emergency, and adjust gaps so heads and legs cannot enter. Post the trapping procedure and hold regular door-removal drills.
Q18Fell from a ledge; hind legs do not moveInjury
A February night. A 7-year-old male fell from a 1.5 m earth bank placed temporarily in an exhibit under renovation. When the keeper arrives, the animal is trying to drag himself forward with his forelimbs, but his hind legs do not move and he is leaking urine. He growls in pain and tries to bite when the keeper reaches for him.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Place him on a board or rigid platform to immobilize the spine, and go to a vet immediately in a darkened crate
- Pick him up, carry him to the nest box, and rest him until the vet's visit next morning
- Massage the hind legs to improve circulation, then stand him up and make him walk
- Leave him until the pain subsides, and move him once he can move
AnswerA. Place him on a board or rigid platform to immobilize the spine, and go to a vet immediately in a darkened crate
ExplanationAfter a fall from over 1 m with immobile hind legs and incontinence, spinal injury is strongly suspected. The manual also says to see a vet immediately if he cannot walk after a fall. Place him on a board or rigid platform without bending the spine, cover his face with a thick cloth to avoid bites, and transport immediately in a darkened large crate. Picking him up flexes the spine and worsens spinal cord damage, and waiting until morning loses the chance of recovery. Massaging the hind legs or walking moves the injured site and makes the paralysis permanent. Leaving him prolongs pain and paralysis, and bladder paralysis leads to kidney damage.
IssuesA drop of over 1 m was created during renovation without a barrier or ramp to prevent falls. The basic principle of no drops over 1 m in the enclosure was not reflected in the construction plan.
ImprovementKeep drops under 1 m even during renovation or temporary works, and fence off access where unavoidable. Move the animal to another enclosure during construction. Keep a rigid board and large crate ready for suspected spinal injury transport, and train stretcher immobilization.
Q19Keeper's hand bitten and not releasedInjury
An October night. At a rescue facility, a new keeper reached into the nest box to retrieve the food dish of a 6-year-old male and was bitten deeply on the wrist. The animal will not let go, and the keeper screams while reflexively trying to pull the hand free. A senior keeper is beside them, holding a thick towel and a wooden rod.
What is the most appropriate action for the senior keeper?
- Hit the animal's head with the rod to startle it into letting go
- Grab the new keeper's arm and pull with all their strength together
- Tell the new keeper to stay still and silent, cover the animal's face with the towel, and lever the mouth open with the rod at the corner of the mouth
- Throw water to startle the animal and, once it lets go, take the new keeper straight to hospital
AnswerC. Tell the new keeper to stay still and silent, cover the animal's face with the towel, and lever the mouth open with the rod at the corner of the mouth
ExplanationA wombat's bite force is extremely strong, and pulling the hand out tears the wound wide open. Following the manual's bite-release procedure, the bitten person stays still and silent, the animal's face is covered with a thick cloth to block its vision, and a hard rod is inserted at the corner of the mouth to lever it open slightly and withdraw the hand. Once released, guide the animal into its nest box and withdraw. Afterward rinse the wound under running water, press to stop bleeding, and always seek medical care since a fracture is possible. Hitting or pinning the head triggers a defensive, even harder bite. Pulling out is the action most to be avoided. Throwing water does not guarantee release, and startling methods risk a second bite.
IssuesA new keeper worked alone reaching into the nest box without having been taught the bite-release procedure. There were no tools for working safely inside the nest box and no procedure for moving the animal to another section first.
ImprovementDo nest box work only after guiding the animal to another section, and prohibit reaching in by hand. Teach the bite-release procedure (stay still, cover the face, lever with a rod) hands-on in new-staff training. Keep a thick towel, a hard rod and bleeding-control supplies near the nest box, and make medical care mandatory for every bite.
Q20Log fell and crushed a foreleg, now swollenInjury
A May night. A heavy log propped up in the zoo enclosure toppled and struck the right foreleg of a 3-year-old female. The keeper finds the leg swollen from the shoulder down; she will not put it on the ground and walks on three legs holding it up. The skin over the swelling is partly torn and bleeding, and something white is visible in the wound.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Cover the wound with clean gauze and press, confine her in a dark crate so the leg does not move, and go to a vet right now
- Even if broken it heals naturally in the wild, so increase food and observe
- Splint the swollen leg tightly yourself and observe until tomorrow
- Cover the wound with soil to stop the bleeding and let her walk to promote recovery
AnswerA. Cover the wound with clean gauze and press, confine her in a dark crate so the leg does not move, and go to a vet right now
ExplanationA leg swollen by a heavy log with something white showing in the wound is very likely an open fracture, and 'bone visible' is a call-now criterion in the manual. Cover the wound with clean gauze and press to control bleeding, confine her in a darkened large crate so the leg stays still, and see a vet immediately. Left untreated, the bone becomes infected, leading to amputation or sepsis. An amateur splint shifts bone fragments and damages vessels and nerves, and binding tightly cuts off circulation. Covering with soil introduces bacteria and worsens infection, and walking worsens the fracture.
IssuesA heavy log was propped up unsecured, leaving the risk of it falling on the animal unaddressed. There was no habit of checking the stability of enrichment structures.
ImprovementAnchor logs and roots to the ground or lay them flat; never install anything that could topple. Inspect structures weekly and fix any looseness or tilt. Post a list of conditions requiring an immediate vet visit, such as open fractures, and keep a transport crate and bleeding-control supplies on hand.
Q21Burned belly from touching a heaterInjury
A January morning. After consecutive sub-zero nights, a 9-year-old male spent the whole night pressed against an electric heater placed in the indoor room. On the morning check, the fur on his belly is singed and the skin is red with some blisters. He is in pain, will not rest his belly on the ground, and refuses to eat. The keeper is thinking of applying aloe leaves.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Apply aloe or a human burn ointment and observe
- Remove the heater, gently run room-temperature water over the burn to cool it, cover with a clean cloth, and see a vet the same day
- Pop the blisters with a needle to drain the fluid and pour on antiseptic
- It is cold, so wrap the burned area in a warmed towel to keep it warm
AnswerB. Remove the heater, gently run room-temperature water over the burn to cool it, cover with a clean cloth, and see a vet the same day
ExplanationProlonged contact with an electric heater causes a low-temperature burn, which often damages the skin deeply. First remove the heater causing it, gently run room-temperature water over the burn to draw out heat, cover with a clean cloth, and see a vet the same day. A wide burn on the belly leads to infection and dehydration, so veterinary treatment is needed. Aloe and human ointments have unknown safety and may cause poisoning if licked. Popping blisters opens a route for bacteria, and antiseptic further damages injured tissue. Warming the burned area is the action most to be avoided, as it advances the thermal damage.
IssuesThe heater was installed where the animal could touch it directly, with no guard or clearance. Although he was brought indoors below 0°C, the facility relied on an appliance rather than the proper method of thick hay bedding in the nest box.
ImprovementInstall heating appliances out of the animal's reach, always with a guard and cover. Make thick hay bedding in an insulated nest box holding around 20°C the basis of winter warmth, with appliances only as backup. Record overnight temperatures and check skin and fur on the morning inspection.
Q22Attacked by a stray dog, puncture wounds on the backInjury
Early morning in April. A hole has been dug under the rescue facility fence with signs that a stray dog got in. A 5-year-old female appears to have hidden in her burrow and blocked the entrance with her rump, but she has several puncture wounds from fangs on her back and rump; bleeding is slight but the surrounding tissue is swollen. She is agitated, will not leave the burrow, and bluffs at the keeper.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Bleeding is slight, so just disinfect and see a vet next week if the swelling does not go down
- Drag her out, wash her whole body, and apply human antibiotic ointment to the wounds
- Wait for her to settle, rinse the wounds under running water, and since deep punctures abscess easily, get antimicrobial treatment at a vet the same day
- Driving off the dog makes it safe, so do not touch her and just repair the hole in the fence
AnswerC. Wait for her to settle, rinse the wounds under running water, and since deep punctures abscess easily, get antimicrobial treatment at a vet the same day
ExplanationPuncture wounds from a dog's fangs bleed little on the surface but carry bacteria deep, forming abscesses within days. Swelling means infection has likely already begun. Wait for her to settle, handle her safely with a thick cloth over her face, rinse the wounds under running water, and see a vet the same day for antimicrobial treatment. Disinfecting only and waiting a week lets the abscess spread with a risk of sepsis. Dragging out an agitated animal leads to a bite injury, and human antibiotic ointment has unknown dosage and safety. Repairing the fence matters, but her wounds must not be neglected.
IssuesDaily inspection under the fence was not being done, so the dog's dig-in could not be prevented. Predator defenses of fencing and bottom mesh were inadequate, also raising the risk of mange and other diseases introduced by contact with wild animals.
ImprovementBury fencing at least 1 m deep, install bottom mesh, inspect under the fence daily and fill holes. Repair the same day on any sign of stray dog or fox intrusion, and use cameras to check for nighttime entry. After an attack, observe for several weeks for infections such as mange as well as the wounds, and tell the vet about the wildlife contact.
Q23Animal missing on the morning checkAccident
6 a.m. in June. A zoo keeper enters the enclosure to find a 4-year-old male gone, with a tunnel about 40 cm across dug out under the fence toward the outside. The enclosure borders woodland, and mounds of fresh earth continue on the far side. Before reporting to the director, the keeper is about to go into the woods alone to chase him.
What is the most appropriate action in this situation?
- Go into the woods alone and, once found, catch him bare-handed and bring him back
- Report within the zoo, search around burrows with several people, and lure him into a capture crate with favorite food
- He will come back on his own when hungry, so leave the hole in the fence open and wait until night
- Shout and drive him toward the enclosure to make him run back
AnswerB. Report within the zoo, search around burrows with several people, and lure him into a capture crate with favorite food
ExplanationA wombat can dig under a fence in a single night, and on escape the manual says to search around burrows and lure it with food to capture. First report within the zoo, then with several people in assigned roles search beyond the tunnel and any likely burrow sites, and lure him into a capture crate with favorite food. Chasing alone and trying to catch him bare-handed risks a bite from a powerful 20–35 kg animal, or he bolts at 40 km/h and goes even farther. Leaving the hole open lets other wild animals in and lets him travel far. Shouting and driving him makes him run in fear, risking injury from darting into a road or crashing into a fence.
IssuesDaily inspection under the fence and filling of dig-outs were not habitual, and no bottom mesh was installed. The reporting chain, capture equipment and role assignments for an escape had not been decided in advance.
ImprovementInstall bottom mesh under the fence and walk the fence line daily to fill dig-ins. Document the escape procedure (report, search area, capture crate and food, transport) and drill it annually. Microchip the animal and keep a map of surrounding woods and roads to define the search area.
Q24Run over by a light truck delivering suppliesAccident
A September evening. A light truck was driven into the rescue facility enclosure to deliver hay, and in the dusk its front wheel rode up onto the hindquarters of an 8-year-old female who had emerged from her burrow. The driver reversed at once. She lies unable to move, breathing fast, with blood seeping at the corner of her mouth. Her abdomen is hard and tense to the touch, and her hind legs do not move.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Watch her where she is until she moves on her own, then return her to the burrow
- Pick her up, carry her to the nest box, keep her warm and rested, and see a vet next morning
- Place her flat on a rigid board without moving her, confine her in a dark crate, and transport immediately while contacting the vet
- She is in severe pain, so give a human painkiller before moving her
AnswerC. Place her flat on a rigid board without moving her, confine her in a dark crate, and transport immediately while contacting the vet
ExplanationBeing run over by a vehicle is a critical condition: besides pelvic and spinal fractures, the blood at the mouth and hard abdomen suggest lung and organ damage and internal bleeding. Place her flat on a rigid board so the spine does not move, confine her in a darkened large crate, and transport immediately while contacting the vet. Before transport, contact a vet who handles wildlife and describe the accident. Watching until she moves means she bleeds to death internally. Picking her up worsens spinal and pelvic injuries, and waiting until morning is fatal. Giving oral medication to an animal with suspected organ damage, even if conscious, causes aspiration and gastrointestinal bleeding, and human painkillers have unknown safety in marsupials.
IssuesA vehicle was driven into the enclosure during the dim active hours, and the procedure of confirming the animal's location was not followed. There was no spotter for vehicle entry and no practice of guiding the animal to another section first.
ImprovementRestrict vehicle entry to daylight hours when the animal is in its burrow, and always have a spotter confirm its location first. Where possible, guide the animal to another section and close the door. Keep a rigid board and large crate for transport, and brief staff on the immediate-transport criteria for suspected organ damage.
Q25Fell into the pond and nearly drownedAccident
A July night. A 2-year-old male slipped into a newly installed 60 cm deep concrete pond at the zoo. By the time the keeper noticed, he was thrashing, unable to climb the wall, his nose and mouth going under and resurfacing. Pulled out, he is limp with weak breathing, vomits water from his mouth, and his body is cold.
What is the most appropriate response after pulling him out?
- Hang him upside down to make him expel all the water, then return him to the burrow
- Warm his whole body at once with a hair dryer's hot air and wait until he recovers
- Check breathing and pulse, lower his head to drain water, dry him with a towel, keep him warm, and contact a vet right now
- He vomited water so he has recovered; give food and observe
AnswerC. Check breathing and pulse, lower his head to drain water, dry him with a towel, keep him warm, and contact a vet right now
ExplanationIf he is limp with weak breathing after near-drowning, first check breathing by chest movement and the pulse at the femoral artery on the inner hind leg. Lower the head to drain water from the airway, and if breathing has stopped, lay him on his side and start CPR. Dry him with a towel, keep him warm with a blanket, and contact a vet right now. Lungs that have inhaled water develop pneumonia or pulmonary edema hours later, so a vet visit is needed even if he seems recovered. Hanging upside down damages the cervical spine and is impractical at around 25 kg. Hot air from a dryer causes low-temperature burns and sharp blood pressure swings. Mistaking vomited water for recovery and feeding him causes aspiration and misses delayed lung damage.
IssuesA deep pond with vertical walls a wombat cannot climb was installed, with no escape route if he slipped in. The husbandry standard of a shallow, heavy water container was not reflected in the design of the new facility.
ImprovementUse a shallow, heavy water container or a structure with a gentle slope he can climb out of, and fence off any deep pond. Check new facilities for fall, drowning and trapping risks before installation. Train all keepers in checking breathing and pulse and in CPR, and keep a blanket and towels for warming at the enclosure.
Q26Hind leg caught in a fence gap, thrashingAccident
A March night in the rescue facility exercise yard. A 7-year-old male has pushed his right hind leg into a gap at the bottom of an old metal fence and cannot get it out. He thrashes violently, pulling against the fence, and the skin on his ankle is scraped and starting to bleed. Two keepers rush over, but the fence is welded and cannot easily be removed.
What is the most appropriate response in this situation?
- Have both keepers pull his body and yank the leg out with a jerk
- Keep your distance until he tires himself out, then pull the leg out once he is quiet
- Grease the leg so it slips and force it out
- Cover his face with a towel to calm him, cut away part of the fence with tools to free him, rinse the wound and check his gait
AnswerD. Cover his face with a towel to calm him, cut away part of the fence with tools to free him, rinse the wound and check his gait
ExplanationIn a trapping accident the principle is not to pull but to remove whatever is trapping the animal. Cover the thrashing animal's face with a thick towel to block its vision and calm it, then cut part of the fence with metal-cutting tools to free him. Afterward rinse the wound under running water, press to stop bleeding, check his gait, and see a vet the same day if he drags the leg. Pulling causes an ankle fracture or a large skin tear, and while waiting for him to tire, circulation impairment and tissue damage progress. Grease will not free a bone wedged in metal, and the more force applied, the worse the damage.
IssuesThe inspection missed a gap at the bottom of the old fence that a leg could enter. No tools for emergency fence cutting were kept near the enclosure, so freeing him took time.
ImprovementInspect fences regularly for gaps a leg or head could enter and close any with fine mesh or boards. Keep metal-cutting tools and a thick towel near the enclosure and share the trapping-release procedure among staff. After a trapping, observe gait and swelling for several days.
Q27Chewed an extension cord and was electrocutedAccident
A December night. An extension cord for a heater ran across the floor of the zoo's indoor room. The keeper returns to find a 5-year-old female lying on her side beside the cord, the area around her mouth singed and foaming, with the cord bitten through and the wires exposed. Her body is trembling in small tremors and she does not respond to her name. The cord is still plugged into the outlet.
Which is the most appropriate first action?
- Touch her immediately and drag her to a safe place
- Grab the cord bare-handed and pull it away from her
- Pour water on her to cool the burned mouth
- First cut the power at the breaker or outlet, then check breathing and pulse and contact a vet immediately
AnswerD. First cut the power at the breaker or outlet, then check breathing and pulse and contact a vet immediately
ExplanationIn an electrocution, the top priority is cutting the power to prevent the rescuer being electrocuted too. Trip the breaker or unplug the cord, then approach her and check breathing by chest movement and the pulse at the femoral artery. If there is no breathing or pulse, lay her on her side and start CPR, and in any case contact a vet right now. Beyond mouth burns, electrocution can cause arrhythmia and pulmonary edema hours later, so a vet visit is needed even if she regains consciousness. Touching an energized animal or cord electrocutes the rescuer. Water conducts electricity, spreads the shock, and does nothing to cool the burn.
IssuesAn extension cord was run across the floor of a room housing an animal with a strong chewing habit, without conduit or a cover. The basic safety design of fixing heater wiring out of the animal's reach was lacking.
ImprovementFix wiring at a height the animal cannot reach, and run any floor cabling inside metal conduit. Make sure all staff know the breaker location whenever electrical equipment is installed in the room. Post the electrocution procedure (cut power, check breathing and pulse, CPR, vet) and provide plenty of safe chewing objects such as logs and tree roots.
Q28Fell over the barrier into the visitor walkwayAccident
An October evening, during a visitor event at the rescue facility. A 3-year-old female eating on top of the 80 cm earth bank separating the enclosure from the visitor walkway slipped and fell onto the concrete floor on the walkway side. She got up but walks holding her right foreleg off the ground, and visitors have crowded around taking photos. She is agitated and about to charge at the visitors' feet.
What is the first action the keeper should take?
- Move the visitors back and quiet them, guide her into a dark crate, check the foreleg, and see a vet the same day
- Let the photography continue and return her to the enclosure after the event
- Pick her up, lift her onto the bank and put her back where she was
- Startle her so she runs back to the enclosure on her own
AnswerA. Move the visitors back and quiet them, guide her into a dark crate, check the foreleg, and see a vet the same day
ExplanationWalking with a foreleg held up after a fall may mean a fracture or sprain, and a dragged limb warrants a same-day vet visit. At the same time, an animal surrounded by visitors charges out of fear, and a 40 km/h collision injures both people and animal. First move the visitors back and quiet them, guide her into a darkened crate to secure safety, then examine the foreleg and see a vet the same day. Letting the photography continue leaves her stressed and the charging risk unaddressed. Picking up a 20–35 kg animal risks a bite and worsens the injured leg. Startling her into running worsens a fracture and invites another fall or a fence collision.
IssuesFood was placed where the animal could fall during a visitor event, with no barrier between the bank and the walkway. There was no plan for crowd control during events or for isolating the animal if an accident occurred.
ImprovementInstall a fall barrier or gentle slope at the boundary with the visitor walkway and keep feeding spots away from it. At events, assign staff to maintain distance and quiet among visitors, and keep a crate nearby to contain the animal in an emergency. Share the rule that an abnormal gait after a fall means a same-day vet visit.
Q29Nest box collapsed in an earthquake, trapped underneathAccident
2 a.m. in February, a strong earthquake (JMA intensity 5-upper) strikes. The zoo's night patroller heads to the enclosure and finds the artificial nest box built of stacked concrete blocks collapsed, with an 8-year-old male pinned under the blocks, only his upper body outside. He is breathing shallowly with his mouth open, making no sound, and his hindquarters under the rubble do not move. Aftershocks continue.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Wait several hours for the aftershocks to subside before rescuing him
- Grab his upper body and pull him out in one go
- Remove the blocks one at a time by hand to free him, place him on a rigid board, and transport immediately while contacting the vet
- Place more weight on top of the blocks so he cannot move, and wait until morning
AnswerC. Remove the blocks one at a time by hand to free him, place him on a rigid board, and transport immediately while contacting the vet
ExplanationShallow breathing while pinned under blocks suggests chest compression and pelvic or spinal injury. While watching your own safety, remove the blocks one at a time to free him, place him on a rigid board so the spine does not move, and transport immediately in a dark crate while contacting the vet. Prolonged compression causes crush syndrome, and sudden deterioration can follow release, so veterinary care is needed. Waiting several hours lets the breathing and circulatory impairment from compression progress. Pulling the upper body worsens fractures of the hindquarters trapped in the rubble and damages the spinal cord. Adding more weight is out of the question.
IssuesThe artificial nest box was built of stacked blocks with no bonding or anchoring, a structure that collapses in an earthquake. There were no procedures for nighttime disaster response, no placement of rescue equipment, and no safety standards for working during aftershocks.
ImprovementBuild artificial nest boxes as a single cast unit or an anchored structure, verified at design not to collapse. Set a post-earthquake inspection procedure and a storage place for rescue equipment (gloves, board, crate), and brief night patrollers. Arrange vet contact and transport destinations for disasters in advance, and drill annually.
Q30Both doors left open, escaped into the groundsAccident
An April evening, just before closing at the rescue facility. A new keeper cleaning the enclosure opened the inner door while the outer door was still open, and a 6-year-old female slipped past and out onto the path. She ran toward the visitors heading for the exit, then stopped and began digging in a flower bed. Several visitors are approaching with their smartphones pointed at her.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Ask the visitors to help and have everyone surround and herd her
- Run after her, jump on her from behind and grab her in your arms
- She will tire and fall asleep while digging, so just watch
- Move the visitors away and keep things quiet, then lure her into a capture crate with favorite food and contain her
AnswerD. Move the visitors away and keep things quiet, then lure her into a capture crate with favorite food and contain her
ExplanationThe manual's basic rule for an escaped animal is not to startle it but to lure it with food and capture it. Move the visitors away to reduce stimulation, form a loose cordon with several keepers, and lure her into a capture crate with favorite food. Having visitors surround her makes her charge at 40 km/h in fear, injuring both people and animal. Jumping on and grabbing her carries a high risk of serious injury from a 20–35 kg animal's strength and bite force. There is no guarantee she will fall asleep while digging, and if she leaves the grounds she may be hit on a road.
IssuesThe rule for the double door, close one before opening the other, had not been drilled into the new keeper. There was no procedure for guiding the animal to another section before cleaning, and the work was done just before closing when staffing was thin.
ImprovementFit an interlock that physically prevents both doors opening at once, and label each door with a 'close the other first' sign. Move the animal to another section before cleaning, and pair new keepers with a senior. Drill visitor guidance and capture procedures for an escape within the grounds, and place a capture crate and food at each enclosure.
Q31Seems to have swallowed a plastic bagPoisoning / Ingestion
A May morning. Scraps of a plastic shopping bag blown in by the wind are scattered around the zoo enclosure, and one of a 4-year-old male's droppings contains a fragment of plastic. He has an appetite and is digging as usual, but the keeper cannot find the rest of the bag and suspects it may still be in his gut. The keeper considers giving him salt water to make him vomit.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Remove litter from the enclosure, record appetite and dropping count daily, see a vet immediately if they decrease, and report the situation to the vet
- Give salt water or hydrogen peroxide to make him vomit it up
- It came out in the droppings, so assume it has all passed and do nothing
- Give plenty of fruit and bread to get the gut moving and observe
AnswerA. Remove litter from the enclosure, record appetite and dropping count daily, see a vet immediately if they decrease, and report the situation to the vet
ExplanationWombats readily swallow plastic, rope and the like, and the manual says to see a vet immediately if appetite drops or droppings decrease. Even with no symptoms now, the rest of the bag may remain in the gut, so remove litter from the enclosure, record appetite and the number and shape of droppings daily, and go to a vet immediately if they decrease or the abdomen distends. Also report the situation to the vet and discuss imaging if needed. Wombats vomit poorly; salt water or hydrogen peroxide only causes salt poisoning or esophageal injury and is dangerous. A fragment in the droppings is no proof the rest has passed. Fruit and bread are high in sugar, cause gut stasis, and actually worsen an obstruction from a foreign body.
IssuesThe procedure of removing litter from the enclosure daily was not followed, and there was no measure against wind-blown litter. The keeper was about to apply carelessly a vomiting treatment used in other animals.
ImprovementRemove litter and fence fragments from the enclosure on every morning check, and put up a windbreak net on the windward side. If ingestion is suspected, record appetite, dropping count and abdominal condition daily, and go to a vet immediately if no droppings appear in 24 hours. Post a notice that vomiting must not be induced and the vet must be consulted.
Q32Visitor threw in a lunch box containing onionPoisoning / Ingestion
Midday in August at the zoo. A report comes in that a visitor threw leftovers from a lunch box over the fence and a 5-year-old female ate stir-fried onion and white rice. When the keeper checks, she has returned to her burrow and shows no symptoms so far. But the keeper recalls that onion is toxic even to herbivores, destroying red blood cells.
What is the most appropriate response?
- It was a small amount so there is no problem; continue normal observation
- Give milk to dilute the toxin
- Stimulate her throat with a finger to make her vomit
- Record the amount eaten and the time, contact a vet right now, and for several days watch gum color, urine color and energy
AnswerD. Record the amount eaten and the time, contact a vet right now, and for several days watch gum color, urine color and energy
ExplanationOnions and relatives are on the manual's list of forbidden foods; their compounds destroy red blood cells, causing anemia and hemoglobinuria days later. Because symptoms are delayed, record the amount eaten and the time, contact a vet at once and follow instructions. For several days watch for pale gums, red or brown urine, and changes in energy or appetite, and go to a vet immediately if anything is abnormal. Even a small amount can be toxic relative to body weight, and white rice as a high-sugar food also causes gut stasis. Milk cannot be digested due to lactose, causes diarrhea, and does not dilute the toxin. Wombats vomit poorly, and stimulating the throat leads to a bite injury.
IssuesThe fence structure allowed visitors to throw in food, and prevention measures and warning signs were inadequate. A list of toxic foods and a procedure for observing delayed symptoms had not been shared among staff.
ImprovementInstall a second barrier or clear panels outside the fence to prevent throwing, and strengthen no-feeding signs and monitoring. Post the list of forbidden foods (onions and relatives, avocado, bread, grains, sweets) at the enclosure. When accidental ingestion is found, record it, contact the vet, and add several days of observation items to the record sheet.
Q33Ate grass after herbicide sprayingPoisoning / Ingestion
A June morning. It emerges that herbicide was sprayed on the land next to the rescue facility the previous day. A 9-year-old male seems to have eaten grass by the fence overnight, as the grass along the fence line is chewed. On the morning check he is drooling, walks unsteadily, and trembles from time to time. His droppings are normal.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Give lots of water to dilute the poison and observe
- Identify the sprayed chemical, contact a vet right now with the symptoms, remove the grass along the fence, and prepare for transport
- Give a large dose of activated charcoal to detoxify him yourself
- Pesticides do not affect herbivores, so feed as normal
AnswerB. Identify the sprayed chemical, contact a vet right now with the symptoms, remove the grass along the fence, and prepare for transport
ExplanationPesticide-treated grass is a forbidden food in the manual, and drooling, staggering and trembling are urgent signs of poisoning affecting the nervous system. Confirm the chemical name and amount sprayed with the neighboring property, and contact a vet right now with the symptoms and timeline. Antidotes and treatment differ by chemical, so the vet's instructions are essential. At the same time remove the grass along the fence to prevent further ingestion, and prepare for transport in a darkened crate. Water alone does not reverse poisoning, and forcing a staggering animal to drink causes aspiration. Activated charcoal is ineffective against some chemicals, and wrong dosing or administration causes aspiration pneumonia. Herbicides are toxic to animals, and neglect is fatal.
IssuesThe facility was unaware in advance of the herbicide spraying next door and had no measures against contamination of grass by the fence. The structure allowed grazing from outside the fence, and there was no buffer zone to prevent spray drift.
ImprovementLiaise with the neighboring property's manager to receive advance notice of pesticide spraying. Create a buffer zone several meters wide inside the fence, mow the grass along the fence regularly, and remove it after any spraying. Post a procedure making chemical identification and vet contact the top priority when poisoning is suspected.
Q34Chewed and ate paint flakes from the fencePoisoning / Ingestion
A November night at the zoo. The paint on an old iron fence is peeling, and the keeper sees a 7-year-old female chewing the fence and swallowing paint flakes. The paint is decades old and may contain lead. She looks well now, but her appetite has been erratic for several weeks and her droppings have become smaller. The keeper thinks metal is not digested, so it is fine.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Paint flakes are not digested and pass in the droppings, so leave it
- Give milk and eggs to protect the stomach lining
- Keep her away from the fence, pick up the flakes, observe, and see a vet if symptoms appear
- Move her to a section where she cannot chew the fence, check the paint composition, consult the vet and have blood tests done
AnswerD. Move her to a section where she cannot chew the fence, check the paint composition, consult the vet and have blood tests done
ExplanationOld paint may contain lead, and chronic chewing causes lead poisoning with erratic appetite, reduced gut motility, anemia and neurological signs. Since erratic appetite and smaller droppings are already present, first move her to a section where she cannot chew the fence or cover it, confirm the paint composition from facility records or testing, consult the vet, and have blood lead levels measured. Even if the flakes are not digested, lead dissolves in stomach acid and is absorbed, so neglect is dangerous. Milk and eggs are unsuitable for a herbivore, cause gut stasis, and do nothing to block lead absorption. Waiting for symptoms ignores the erratic appetite and dropping changes already present while the poisoning advances.
IssuesDeterioration and composition of the old iron fence paint had not been checked, and there was no measure against the chewing habit. The weeks of erratic appetite and smaller droppings were not recorded or reported as abnormal.
ImprovementCheck the composition of paint on fences and structures; if lead is possible, strip it and repaint with lead-free paint. When fence chewing is observed, provide more safe chewing objects such as logs and tree roots. Set a rule to report erratic appetite or dropping changes to the vet once they last a week.
Q35Given lots of fruit, diarrhea the next morningPoisoning / Ingestion
A September morning, a 3-year-old male at a rescue facility. The day before, at an event, the keeper gave him large amounts of apples and grapes brought by visitors as a treat. This morning watery stool is spread around, and he lies limp in front of his nest box and will not drink. The area around his mouth is dry, and a pinched fold of skin is slow to flatten. The keeper considers giving a human antidiarrheal.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Stop the fruit, give only hay and water, and since there are signs of dehydration, have a vet examine him the same day
- Give a weight-adjusted dose of a human antidiarrheal and observe
- Give large amounts of a sports drink to rehydrate him
- Diarrhea clears up on its own, so stop all food and fast him for a day
AnswerA. Stop the fruit, give only hay and water, and since there are signs of dehydration, have a vet examine him the same day
ExplanationOverfeeding fruit is forbidden in the manual as a cause of obesity and diarrhea; a large sugar load upsets the gut flora and causes watery stool. A slow skin pinch and refusal to drink are signs of dehydration, requiring a same-day vet visit. Stop the fruit, give only hay and fresh water, and tell the vet what he was fed and the condition of the stool. Human antidiarrheals stop gut movement and trap toxins, and are especially dangerous for herbivores. Sports drinks are high in sugar and worsen diarrhea. Fasting stops a herbivore's gut and causes gut stasis.
IssuesVisitor service was prioritized over feeding standards and a large amount of fruit was given. The husbandry condition of fruit only a few times a week in small amounts had not been shared with staff, and there were no feeding rules for events.
ImprovementDocument the feeding plan, setting fruit and root vegetables at small amounts a few times a week for tooth wear. Do not accept food brought by visitors at events; if anything is given, keep it within the planned amount. On diarrhea, stop fruit, and treat signs of dehydration (slow skin pinch, dry mouth, refusing water) as a same-day vet visit.
Q36Cooling room lost power on a scorching dayEnvironment / Disaster
1 p.m. in August, 37°C. The air conditioning in the zoo's cooled refuge room has failed and the room temperature has risen to 32°C. A 10-year-old female is in the corner breathing fast with her mouth open, and the outdoor burrow is flooded from yesterday's rain and unusable. The repair technician is not expected until evening, and the keeper is unsure whether to leave her in the room.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Just run a fan and wait for the evening repair
- Pile large amounts of ice around her body to cool her
- Put her outside in the sun to get some wind
- Cool her with cloth-wrapped ice packs or wet towels while fanning, move her to another cool room or a shaded spot, and contact a vet
AnswerD. Cool her with cloth-wrapped ice packs or wet towels while fanning, move her to another cool room or a shaded spot, and contact a vet
ExplanationAbove 28°C a wombat should be in its burrow or a cooled room, and open-mouthed breathing at a room temperature of 32°C is early heatstroke. Cool her with cloth-wrapped ice packs or wet towels while fanning, move her to another cool room or a shaded, well-ventilated spot, and contact a vet within 30 minutes. A fan alone is insufficient cooling at 32°C, and waiting until evening leads to severe heatstroke. Piling ice directly on her constricts surface vessels so core temperature does not fall, and causes cold burns. Outdoors in the sun is even hotter than indoors and worsens her condition rapidly.
IssuesThe cooling room depended on a single air conditioner, with no backup cooling method or alternative refuge for a breakdown. Flooding of the burrow removed the second refuge too, so heat protection lacked redundancy.
ImprovementEquip the cooling room with backup air conditioning or emergency power, and secure another cool room for breakdowns. Keep ice packs, wet towels and fans on hand in summer, and install a thermometer that alarms above 26°C. Improve burrow drainage so it stays usable after rain.
Q37Winter blackout, sub-zero overnightEnvironment / Disaster
11 p.m. in January. A heavy snowfall has caused a blackout and the heating in the rescue facility's indoor room has stopped. The outside temperature is -5°C and the room is getting colder. A 14-year-old elderly male sits motionless and shivering on thin hay. Power is not expected back until the next morning or later, and the keeper is unsure whether to warm him directly with hand warmers or add hay.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Stick disposable hand warmers directly on his belly to warm him
- Burn a portable gas stove indoors to raise the room temperature
- Pack an insulated nest box thickly with hay, cover it with blankets to block the cold, and contact a vet if signs of hypothermia appear
- He is a cold-hardy animal, so do nothing and wait until morning
AnswerC. Pack an insulated nest box thickly with hay, cover it with blankets to block the cold, and contact a vet if signs of hypothermia appear
ExplanationWombats are brought indoors below 0°C, and thick hay in the nest box is the basic winter warming method. In a blackout, pack an insulated nest box thickly with hay and cover it with blankets to block the cold, creating an environment where he can hold his own body heat. If the elderly animal shows signs of hypothermia, such as stopping shivering and going limp or becoming unresponsive, contact a vet. Hand warmers applied directly cause low-temperature burns, and he may peel them off and swallow them. Burning a gas stove in a closed room kills both people and animal by carbon monoxide poisoning. Leaving an elderly animal on thin hay below freezing leads to hypothermia.
IssuesThere was no warming plan for a winter blackout, and emergency power and hay stocks were insufficient. The thickness of winter bedding did not account for an elderly animal's vulnerability to cold.
ImprovementStock extra hay in winter and strengthen nest box insulation so it holds around 20°C even in a blackout. Prepare emergency power or non-electric warming (blankets, insulation). Put winter hypothermia signs for elderly animals on the record sheet and set a blackout contact procedure.
Q38Enclosure starting to flood as a typhoon approachesEnvironment / Disaster
A September evening. With a large typhoon approaching, rainwater is pouring into the zoo enclosure and nearing the entrance of the underground burrow dug by a 6-year-old female. She seems to be deep inside and cannot be seen. The wind and rain are only getting stronger, and the keeper must decide whether to enter the burrow and pull her out or take another measure before the water rises.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Reach into the burrow and drag her out
- The back of the burrow is safe even if water gets in, so do nothing
- Block the burrow entrance with sandbags to stop the water, leaving her shut inside
- Lure her out of the burrow with favorite food and evacuate her to the indoor room on high ground or a dark crate
AnswerD. Lure her out of the burrow with favorite food and evacuate her to the indoor room on high ground or a dark crate
ExplanationA flooded underground burrow loses its exit, raising the risk of drowning and collapse. Even in strong wind and rain, the correct action is to lure her out with favorite food and evacuate her to the indoor room on high ground or a darkened crate. Wombats charge when startled, so guide her quietly and, once contained, ensure warmth and rest. Reaching into the burrow carries a high risk of a bite, and pulling out an animal deep inside is physically impractical anyway. The back of the burrow offers no escape once flooded, and waterlogged soil collapses easily. Sandbagging the entrance prevents drainage and ventilation, and she drowns inside.
IssuesThere was no evacuation plan for an approaching typhoon, and enclosure drainage and burrow flood protection were inadequate. No criteria had been set for moving the animal indoors early, so the response came just as the storm intensified.
ImprovementSet a rule to evacuate the animal to the indoor room once a weather warning is issued, and practice food-luring in normal times. Build drainage channels and berms in the enclosure to keep water out of burrows, and keep an evacuation crate, food and warming supplies on hand. Post staff roles and contacts for disasters.
Q39Nest box constantly damp with condensationEnvironment / Disaster
A March morning. On inspecting the artificial nest box at the rescue facility, the inner walls are beaded with water droplets and the hay on the floor is damp and blackened. The thermo-hygrometer reads 90% humidity. The 5-year-old male inside has damp fur on his back and reddened skin. The keeper considers turning up the heat to dry it out, but the vents have been closed to prevent condensation.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Open the vents to exchange air, replace all the damp hay, and redesign the box to hold humidity at 50–70%
- Turn up the heat and dry the box while keeping it sealed
- Lay fresh hay on top of the damp hay and observe
- Apply a human antifungal to the reddened skin and leave the humidity as it is
AnswerA. Open the vents to exchange air, replace all the damp hay, and redesign the box to hold humidity at 50–70%
ExplanationThe manual sets nest humidity at 50–70% and says condensation and excess humidity must be avoided. Blackened hay at 90% humidity is a breeding ground for mold and bacteria, and the reddened skin may be the onset of dermatitis or ringworm. Open the vents to exchange air, replace all the damp hay, and redesign the box to combine insulation with ventilation. If the redness spreads, see a vet within a few days. Turning up the heat while sealed increases condensation further through the temperature difference. Layering fresh hay over damp hay leaves the mold in place and the skin keeps suffering. Human antifungals have unknown safety, and without fixing the environment the problem recurs.
IssuesClosing the vents as a condensation measure trapped moisture and backfired. The thermo-hygrometer was not read routinely, and the weekly full hay replacement was not brought forward in response to dampness.
ImprovementInsulate the nest box to reduce the temperature difference between inside and out, and keep the vents slightly open at all times to let moisture escape. Record temperature and humidity daily; if humidity stays above 70%, add hay replacement and ventilation. Make redness and hair loss weekly skin-check items and report any change to the vet.
Q40Transferring to a temporary evacuation facilityEnvironment / Disaster
Midday in July. An evacuation order has been issued for the zoo due to a raised volcanic alert level. An 11-year-old female must be transferred by road, in 33°C heat, to a partner facility 2 hours away. All that could be prepared is one large-dog crate, and the keeper is about to catch her and load her onto the open bed of a truck standing in the sun. The receiving facility has no earth enclosure, only an animal house with a concrete floor.
Which is the most appropriate approach to the transfer?
- Load the crate on the truck bed unsecured and drive fast to arrive sooner
- Leave the crate open inside the vehicle so she can move freely
- Line the crate floor with thick hay, add cloth-wrapped ice packs, cover it to darken, secure it inside the air-conditioned cabin for the trip, and prepare a section with soil or hay on arrival
- Sedate her with anesthetic and carry her in a cardboard box
AnswerC. Line the crate floor with thick hay, add cloth-wrapped ice packs, cover it to darken, secure it inside the air-conditioned cabin for the trip, and prepare a section with soil or hay on arrival
ExplanationThe manual's transport method is a large-dog crate or sturdy wooden box, darkened, with cloth-wrapped ice packs in summer. A 2-hour transfer at 33°C carries a high heatstroke risk, so secure the crate inside the air-conditioned cabin, line the floor with hay for stable footing, and cover it to reduce stress. On arrival, since a concrete floor damages claws and toes, prepare a section with soil or thick hay. An unsecured crate on a fast drive shifts and injures her, and an open truck bed in the sun causes heatstroke. An open crate lets her thrash about in the vehicle and is dangerous; anesthesia is done only under a vet's supervision, and cardboard is torn apart by her strength.
IssuesThere was no disaster transfer plan; the means of transfer in summer heat and the receiving facility's housing had not been arranged in advance. Crate securing and cooling supplies were found lacking on the day.
ImprovementAgree a disaster transfer destination in advance, and have the receiving facility prepare a section with an earth floor or thick hay. Keep one set of large crate, ice packs, blackout cloth and tie-down straps for transfer. Practice luring her into the crate with food annually, and document a transfer procedure with a vet accompanying.
Q41After touching a mange-infected animal bare-handedInfection / Hygiene
A February afternoon. A keeper who helped treat a 4-year-old male diagnosed with sarcoptic mange at the rescue facility stroked the animal's back bare-handed after removing their gloves. That night, an itchy red rash appeared on the keeper's wrist and arm. The keeper is scheduled to feed a different, healthy animal the next morning as usual.
What is the most appropriate response?
- The rash is temporary, so apply an over-the-counter anti-itch cream and care for the other animal as planned
- Keep contact with the mange-infected animal to build tolerance and the rash will go away
- Animal diseases do not pass to humans, so carry on working without concern
- See a dermatologist and report the mange contact, hand over care of other animals, launder clothing and disinfect the bedding
AnswerD. See a dermatologist and report the mange contact, hand over care of other animals, launder clothing and disinfect the bedding
ExplanationWombat sarcoptic mange is a zoonosis that infects humans, and a rash after bare-handed contact most likely means infection. See a dermatologist, report the contact with the infected animal and get treatment; hand over care of other animals to prevent spread, launder clothing and disinfect bedding and tools. The manual also requires handling animals with skin lesions in gloves, and hand washing and a change of clothes after work. Anti-itch cream alone does not cure it and risks carrying mites to other animals. Continued contact builds no tolerance and the infection worsens. The belief that animal diseases do not pass to humans is wrong.
IssuesA basic protective rule was breached by touching the animal bare-handed after removing gloves. Awareness of mange as a zoonosis was inadequate, and there was no procedure for handing over care of other animals once infected.
ImprovementWork with mange-infected animals using dedicated gloves and clothing, with mandatory hand washing and a change of clothes afterward. Make a rule that staff with skin symptoms see a doctor immediately and are excused from caring for other animals until treatment is complete. Separate workflows, starting with healthy animals and handling infected animals last.
Q42Cloudy water and rat droppings at the water pointInfection / Hygiene
An October morning. Cloudy water has collected at the water point in the zoo enclosure, with rat droppings and footprints around it. The keeper is about to wash the container bare-handed, then remembers that a 6-year-old female has been listless since last week and her urine has become darker. The keeper is not wearing boots.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Just tip out the water and refill it
- Put on boots and gloves to clean the water point, block the rats' entry routes, and report the listlessness and urine change to the vet for an examination
- Remove the water point and let her get by on moisture from food
- Rat droppings are harmless to people, so work as normal
AnswerB. Put on boots and gloves to clean the water point, block the rats' entry routes, and report the listlessness and urine change to the vet for an examination
ExplanationWater or soil contaminated with rat urine is a source of leptospirosis, which infects both wombats and humans. The manual requires boots and gloves, daily water changes, and keeping rodents out. Listlessness and a change in urine color suggest kidney or liver damage; suspect infection, report it to the vet, and have her examined the same day. Merely changing the water leaves the container and surroundings contaminated and the rats keep coming. Removing the water point causes dehydration and violates the husbandry condition of fresh water at all times. Rat droppings and urine are dangerous to people too, and working bare-handed or without boots puts the keeper at risk of infection.
IssuesThe routine of changing the water daily was not followed, and signs of rat intrusion were missed. The animal's listlessness and urine change were left for a week, with hygiene management and health observation not linked.
ImprovementWash the water point and change the water daily, twice a day in summer. Store feed in sealed containers, block rat entry routes, and inspect regularly for signs. Make boots and gloves mandatory for enclosure work, and record changes in energy or urine, reporting to the vet if they last 2 days.
Q43Wanting to cohouse a new arrival the same dayInfection / Hygiene
May. A wild-rescued female, estimated 2 years old, arrives at the rescue facility. She looks lively, but there are small crusts on the edges of her ears and patches of hair loss on her skin. The director is eager to exhibit her and wants to put her into the same enclosure as the resident 8-year-old male from today. The keeper is concerned that the health check has not yet been done.
What is the most appropriate judgment for the keeper?
- Do not cohouse; isolate and quarantine her in a separate section, have a vet examine the skin lesions, and then decide on introduction
- Cohouse as the director instructs; it is fine as long as they do not fight
- Disinfect the crusts before cohousing and infection will be prevented
- Isolate for just one day and cohouse the next day if nothing is abnormal
AnswerA. Do not cohouse; isolate and quarantine her in a separate section, have a vet examine the skin lesions, and then decide on introduction
ExplanationWild-origin animals are highly likely to carry mange, parasites or ringworm, and the ear crusts and hair loss are exactly the findings that raise suspicion of mange or ringworm. Do not cohouse; isolate and quarantine her in a separate section, and decide on introduction only after a vet examination, fecal exam and skin tests. Wombats are solitary in the first place, and cohousing itself causes bite wounds. Even without fighting, mange spreads through shared bedding. Surface disinfection does not remove the mites. Given the incubation period, one day of isolation is meaningless; quarantine takes several weeks.
IssuesOrganizational pressure to exhibit nearly led to skipping the basic step of quarantine. The facility had no rules on quarantine duration, test items, or handling of animals with skin lesions when receiving wild animals.
ImprovementMake a rule that new animals undergo several weeks of quarantine with mandatory vet examination, fecal exam and skin tests. Secure an independent quarantine section with dedicated tools, and work there after the healthy animals. Make solitary housing the rule, and document conditions and procedures for any cohousing.
Q44Ring-shaped hair loss and a rash on the keeper's armInfection / Hygiene
A July morning. Two ring-shaped patches of hair loss about 3 cm across are found on the back of a 5-year-old male at the zoo. The skin is slightly red and flaky. Around the same time, the keeper responsible for him has developed a ring-shaped red rash on the forearm. After caring for this animal, the keeper goes straight on to changing the bedding of the neighboring wombat.
What is the most appropriate response?
- The hair loss is seasonal molting, so carry on working without concern
- Apply a human athlete's foot cream to the animal and have the keeper use the same cream
- The animal does not sweat so cannot have a skin disease, and the keeper's rash is unrelated
- Isolate the animal and have a vet see him within a few days; the keeper sees a dermatologist, and hand washing after contact and separation of tools are enforced
AnswerD. Isolate the animal and have a vet see him within a few days; the keeper sees a dermatologist, and hand washing after contact and separation of tools are enforced
ExplanationRing-shaped hair loss, redness and flaking are the classic picture of dermatophytosis (ringworm), and the manual, treating it as a zoonosis, requires isolation and hand washing after contact. The ring-shaped rash on the keeper's arm is very likely infection with the same fungus. Isolate the animal and have a vet examine him within a few days for diagnosis and treatment. The keeper sees a dermatologist, and to prevent carrying it to other animals, tools are separated and hand washing after contact is enforced. Localized ring-shaped hair loss cannot be explained by molting. Human athlete's foot cream has unknown safety in animals and may cause poisoning if licked. Sweating has nothing to do with fungal infection, and ignoring the keeper's rash spreads the infection.
IssuesRing-shaped skin lesions are easily confused with molting and were not caught early in the weekly skin check. Bedding of another animal was changed after caring for the suspected animal, with no separation of tools or management of work order.
ImprovementRecord ring-shaped hair loss and redness in the weekly skin check and isolate immediately when found. Separate tools per animal and work from healthy animals to suspected ones. Create a system for staff to report skin symptoms and see a doctor, and disinfect bedding and nest boxes with a method effective against fungi.
Q45Unresponsive and stopped breathingEmergency Care
A June night. A 9-year-old male at the zoo collapses suddenly just as he leaves his burrow. The keeper rushes over, calls his name and taps his body lightly, but there is no response and no visible rise and fall of the chest. A hand on the inside of the hind leg finds no pulse. The zoo vet is reached by phone and says arrival will take 15 minutes. The keeper begins treatment under the vet's instructions.
Which is the most appropriate treatment for the keeper to perform until the vet arrives?
- Lay him on his back and press hard on the abdomen to expel stomach contents
- Do nothing, cover him with a blanket and wait for the vet
- Lay him on his side, compress the highest point of the chest with both hands at 100–120 per minute to one-third of chest depth, and give 2 breaths into the nose after every 30 compressions
- Slap his cheeks hard to bring him round and give him water
AnswerC. Lay him on his side, compress the highest point of the chest with both hands at 100–120 per minute to one-third of chest depth, and give 2 breaths into the nose after every 30 compressions
ExplanationNo response, breathing or pulse means cardiac arrest, and the manual's CPR procedure applies. Lay him on his side, stack both hands on the highest point of the chest, compress one-third of chest depth at a rate of 100–120 per minute, and after 30 compressions give 2 breaths into the nose. Continue until the vet arrives, and if there is no recovery after several minutes, follow the vet's instructions. Pressing the abdomen on his back is not CPR and causes organ damage and aspiration. Doing nothing stops blood flow to the brain, and after 15 minutes recovery is impossible. Giving water to an unconscious animal causes aspiration, and slapping the cheeks does not restart the heart.
IssuesEven knowing the CPR procedure, there had been no hands-on training, so the keeper may have hesitated over compression position, depth and rate on the spot. Records of warning signs before collapse (reduced activity, appetite, weight change) were sparse, making the cause hard to estimate.
ImprovementTrain checking response, breathing and pulse and performing CPR hands-on at least once a year, using a large-dog manikin to feel compression depth and rate. Maintain a system for reaching the vet immediately at night. Catch warning signs of sudden deterioration through daily records of activity, appetite and weight, and give elderly animals regular health checks.
Q46Torn ear will not stop bleedingEmergency Care
An August night. A 4-year-old female at the rescue facility caught her ear on a protrusion on the fence and tore it, and blood keeps dripping from the edge of the ear. Every time she shakes her head she flings blood, and the stains spread across the walls and ground. The keeper tried to stop the bleeding with gauze but gave up after about 2 minutes because of the head shaking. The bleeding has continued for over 10 minutes.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Blood is flying everywhere, so shut her in the nest box and wait for it to stop on its own
- Sprinkle styptic powder or flour on the wound to clot it
- Tie a rubber band around the base of the ear to cut off blood flow
- Cover her face with a cloth to calm her, press with clean gauze for at least 5 minutes, bandage the ear to the head, and if it does not stop, transport while maintaining pressure
AnswerD. Cover her face with a cloth to calm her, press with clean gauze for at least 5 minutes, bandage the ear to the head, and if it does not stop, transport while maintaining pressure
ExplanationFor ear bleeding, as the manual says, press with clean gauze for at least 5 minutes and bandage the ear to the head while maintaining pressure. For an animal shaking its head, cover its face with a thick cloth to block its vision and calm it, and have two people restrain it while keeping up the pressure. If bleeding does not stop after 5 minutes of pressure, transport while maintaining it; bleeding lasting over 10 minutes meets the criterion for an immediate vet visit. Shutting her in the nest box, the bleeding continues with every head shake and blood loss mounts. Flour and powders contaminate the wound, cause infection, and hinder the vet's treatment. A rubber band at the base causes the ear tissue to die.
IssuesThe fence had a protrusion that could snag an ear, and inspection had not removed it. The basic of sustained pressure for at least 5 minutes was not kept, with the keeper giving up after 2 minutes, showing the procedure had not been learned.
ImprovementRemove protrusions from fences and structures in regular inspections and fit padding. Keep clean gauze, bandages and a thick towel at the enclosure, and practice two-person restraint with pressure for at least 5 minutes. Post the transport criteria for uncontrolled bleeding and the vet's contact details.
Q47Cannot stand and breathing fast at nightEmergency Care
11 p.m. in October. On the zoo's night patrol, a 12-year-old female is found lying limp in front of her burrow, collapsing whenever she tries to stand. She is breathing fast with her mouth open and responds only weakly to her name. The zoo vet is away, and the patroller is unsure whether to wait until the morning shift or transport her to an outside hospital at night.
What is the most appropriate decision?
- Open-mouthed breathing and being limp and unable to stand meet the call-now criteria, so phone the vet for instructions and transport even at night
- Hospitals are closed at night, so return her to the burrow and wait until morning
- Leave water and food out, watch whether she recovers on her own, and report in the morning
- Film her, send the video to the morning keeper, and leave the decision to them
AnswerA. Open-mouthed breathing and being limp and unable to stand meet the call-now criteria, so phone the vet for instructions and transport even at night
ExplanationIn the manual's emergency triage, open-mouthed breathing and being limp and unable to stand are classified as 'call now'. Possible causes include heatstroke, internal bleeding, heart or lung disease and severe gut stasis, and waiting until morning is life-threatening. Phone the zoo vet for instructions and transport her to an emergency (after-hours) animal hospital that handles wildlife. For transport, confine her darkened in a large-dog crate, and report weight, dropping condition, diet and changes in activity hours. Returning her to the burrow until morning misses a sudden deterioration. Leaving food and water out is meaningless for an animal with reduced consciousness. Sending a video and deferring the decision wastes time; the patroller should act on the emergency criteria themselves.
IssuesThe night patroller did not know the emergency criteria or contacts, and no alternative transport destination had been set for when the vet was away. The authority and procedure for nighttime transport to an outside hospital had not been given to frontline staff.
ImprovementDistribute the call-now criteria list to patrollers, and post the vet's mobile number and after-hours hospitals that handle wildlife. Create a rule giving patrollers authority to decide on nighttime transport, and keep the transport crate and a vehicle usable at night. Make elderly animals a priority for observation on night patrols.
Q48Thrashing and breathing hard during transportEmergency Care
Midday in July. Taking a 6-year-old male from the zoo to an animal hospital for a claw injury, the keeper put him in a wire crate on the back seat of the car. Summer sun streams through the window, and he thrashes in the crate, slamming into the mesh, and begins breathing fast with his mouth open. The hospital is still 40 minutes away.
What is the most appropriate response?
- Thrashing shows he is lively, so just drive on quickly
- Pull over, cover the crate with blackout cloth, turn up the air conditioning, add cloth-wrapped ice packs, let him settle, then call the vet with his condition and arrival time
- Open the crate and let him roam the car to calm down
- Open all the windows for air and carry on along the highway
AnswerB. Pull over, cover the crate with blackout cloth, turn up the air conditioning, add cloth-wrapped ice packs, let him settle, then call the vet with his condition and arrival time
ExplanationAs the manual says, transport in a darkened crate with cloth-wrapped ice packs in summer. Thrashing in the sun with open-mouthed breathing is a sign of deterioration from heatstroke and stress, and 40 minutes of neglect is dangerous. Stop somewhere safe, cover the crate with blackout cloth, turn up the air conditioning, add ice packs, let him settle, and then call the vet with his condition and arrival time. Mistaking thrashing for liveliness and driving on lets heatstroke progress and he injures claws and nose on the mesh. Opening the crate lets him thrash about in the car, making driving dangerous and risking escape or a crash. Open windows do not cool in summer air, and the noise is an added stressor.
IssuesThe crate was not shaded or cooled before departure, and a wire crate was placed as it was on a sunlit seat. Observation items during transport and the response to deterioration had not been thought through.
ImprovementPrepare blackout cloth and hay for the transport crate, always adding ice packs in summer and a blanket in winter. Secure the crate out of direct sun and adjust the cabin temperature before departure. Set a procedure to monitor breathing and behavior during transport and, on deterioration, stop, cool and call.
Q49Bitten keeper's hand is deformedEmergency Care
A March night. A keeper at the rescue facility bitten on the right hand by a 7-year-old male managed to free the hand from his mouth. The back of the hand is torn wide open and still bleeding, and the middle finger is bent at an unnatural angle. The keeper says animal wounds are routine, rinses it under the tap, puts on an adhesive bandage and tries to carry on working. A colleague is unsure whether to intervene.
What is the most appropriate action for the colleague?
- Respect the keeper's wishes and let them continue working
- Pour antiseptic into the wound, wrap it in a bandage and send them to hospital tomorrow
- Give a painkiller and have them rest, and send them to a doctor if the swelling does not go down
- Rinse the wound under running water, press with clean gauze to stop bleeding, and take them to a medical facility right now because a fracture is suspected
AnswerD. Rinse the wound under running water, press with clean gauze to stop bleeding, and take them to a medical facility right now because a fracture is suspected
ExplanationA wombat's bite force is extremely strong, and the manual says medical care is always required because of the risk of fractures. A finger bent at an unnatural angle indicates a fracture or dislocation, and a large laceration is prone to infection. Rinse the wound under running water, press with clean gauze to stop bleeding, keep the hand above heart level and take them to a medical facility right now. Respecting their wishes and letting them work on could cost them the use of the hand through a worsening fracture and infection. Pouring antiseptic into the wound damages tissue, and waiting until tomorrow lets infection spread. Masking symptoms with painkillers and resting delays diagnosis of the fracture.
IssuesA workplace culture of making light of animal bites existed, and the rule of always seeking medical care was not enforced. The bite-release procedure and post-bite response had not been communicated to staff, and colleagues had no criteria for intervening.
ImprovementBecause bites carry a high risk of fracture and infection, make a rule that medical care is always sought regardless of depth or the person's wishes. Keep bleeding-control supplies at the enclosure and hold hands-on training in bite release and first aid. Record it as a workplace injury, analyze the circumstances of the bite and take steps to prevent recurrence.
Q50Dug out of a collapsed burrow but not movingEmergency Care
Early morning in April. A 5-year-old female is dug out of a collapsed burrow at the rescue facility. Her soil-covered body is limp with no voluntary movement, and her mouth and nose are packed with soil. Looking at her chest, the keeper thinks it may be rising and falling slightly but cannot be sure. A second keeper is on the phone to the vet.
What is the most appropriate response immediately after digging her out?
- Pour lots of water over her to wash off the soil and wait for her to regain consciousness
- Immediately start CPR with firm chest compressions
- Clear the soil from her mouth and nose with your fingers to open the airway, check chest movement and the femoral pulse, and if she is not breathing, start CPR and follow the vet's instructions
- Hold her upside down to make her expel the soil
AnswerC. Clear the soil from her mouth and nose with your fingers to open the airway, check chest movement and the femoral pulse, and if she is not breathing, start CPR and follow the vet's instructions
ExplanationAfter digging out a buried animal, the top priority is clearing soil from the mouth and nose to open the airway; without this neither breathing nor rescue breaths are possible. Next check breathing by chest movement and the pulse at the femoral artery on the inner hind leg, and if there is no breathing or pulse, lay her on her side, start CPR and follow the instructions of the vet on the phone. Even if she is breathing, coughing or difficulty walking means suspected lung injury and an immediate vet visit. Pouring lots of water turns the soil to mud that blocks the airway and also lowers body temperature. Skipping airway clearance and checks to press the chest injures a breathing animal and suffocates her with the packed soil. Holding an animal of around 25 kg upside down is impractical and damages the cervical spine.
IssuesThe collapse risk of the burrow had not been inspected in advance, and the order of airway clearance then breathing check after extraction had not been drilled into staff. CPR training was lacking, so there was a risk of starting treatment without checks.
ImprovementPost the life-saving sequence (open the airway, check breathing and pulse, CPR, vet instructions) and hold hands-on training at least once a year. Make burrow inspection mandatory after heavy rain or earthquakes, and add a collapse-resistant artificial nest box. Keep digging tools, a transport crate and a warming blanket at the enclosure entrance.

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